I fixed my Harmonic Balancer, now the car stalls with 20 error codes | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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I fixed my Harmonic Balancer, now the car stalls with 20 error codes

rob909e

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Ford Explore 4.0
I fixed Replaced the Harmonic balancer on my 2005 Explorer XLS 4.0 (automatic) Air intake filter, radiator fluid was drained and refilled. I also Changed the oil and oil filter. Could someone look at the codes and tell me what they think?




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Attachments

  • CodeReaderCodes.pdf
    2.3 MB · Views: 192



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Does anyone know if the Dayco PB1541N Harmonic Balancer is better than the Dorman? Do the specs seem ok for my Explorer?
  • MY EXPLORER 2005 Explorer XLS 4WD 4.0L FFV SOHC 6 CYL

375x375_products-DAY-PB1541N.jpg
Dayco PB1541N Engine Harmonic Balancer

  • Series : Dayco Premium
  • Product Fit : Direct Fit
  • Quantity Sold : Sold Individually
  • Recommended Use : OE Replacement
  • Leaves Warehouse in : 1-2 Business Days
  • Balance Type : Neutral
  • Degree Markings : With Degree Markings
  • Notes : 1.65 in. OD Nose; 5.32 in. W Overall; 1.1 in. Crank Bore; 1.56 in. W Ring; 5.77 in. OD Pulley; (1) Integrated Pulley; 6-groove Serpentine Pulley
  • Outside Diameter : 6.1 in.
  • Warranty : 1 year or 12,000-mile Dayco warranty
  • Part Number : PB1541N


 






That is the harmonic balancer and she is *****ed. Check rock auto, but OEM is probably the most expensive, and the best choice. Your going to need a puller too.
 












My old pulley looked like the one you have installed on your truck, I installed the Dorman 594-236 works fine, I had to modify the puller to remove the harmonic balancer because the radiator was in the way.

 






My 2006 v6 Mustang balancer, I replaced it and the new one was different looking, covered in rubber. The trigger wheel was different too, more of a cage than the original design. Installed fine though and it runs great.
 






Forgot to add I went with OEM replacement
 






Any advice on getting the old HB out? I rented a puller kit from autozone and plan to get this done myself today or tomorrow. I plan on using this video as a guide.
 






Well, I just pulled the Harmonic Balancer off, and it was NOT fun! That center bolt wouldn't budge! I used almost a whole can of PB Blaster and an impact with over 1600 lbs of torque - didn't even budge. I figured since the Harmonic Balancer spins clockwise when the car is running, maybe I could use the force of the engine, just for a split second, to loosen the bolt. I stuck my 2 foot breaker bar inside one of the ends of the long 4ft handle bar from my jack, then I fished the long pole and breaker bar from the ground by the driver's side up 45 degrees to the crank pulley bolt. 1st time cracked the bolt free!!!! Without taking the radiator out, It took about 5 hours to get the balancer off! Now I'm about to put the new on back on.
 






NOT GOOD>. Got the Harmonic balancer on and the car glued back together. Now the car stalls and Idles rough. Emergency engine shut down and check engine lights. Is the timing off? I had a hard time getting the old harmonic balancer off, and ended up turning the harmonic balancer while it was on the crank shaft without the serpentine belt on. Could someone please advise
 






If it were me, if you are getting CEL then I would check codes and find out what they are and go from there. It could be something simple.
 






Well, I just pulled the Harmonic Balancer off, and it was NOT fun! That center bolt wouldn't budge! I used almost a whole can of PB Blaster and an impact with over 1600 lbs of torque - didn't even budge. I figured since the Harmonic Balancer spins clockwise when the car is running, maybe I could use the force of the engine, just for a split second, to loosen the bolt. I stuck my 2 foot breaker bar inside one of the ends of the long 4ft handle bar from my jack, then I fished the long pole and breaker bar from the ground by the driver's side up 45 degrees to the crank pulley bolt. 1st time.

Here’s the reason I take those impact torque values with a grain of salt.
It said 1600lb/ft of torque, yet the engine was able to break it free.
Does the engine make anywhere near 1600lb/ft of torque?

I have cordless impacts and air impacts. They are rated the same but the air tools will work where the cordless won’t even with a fresh battery. Not sure of the criteria they use when rating the torque of these tools but I have found many to be lacking.
YMMV
 






Also,When I put on the new Harmonic Balancer, because the balancer would spin, I was only capable of getting about 35lbs of torque on the center bolt. Any more and the balancer would turn. I don't know how much I turned turned the crank shaft during the whole on process, but considering all the turning of the crank, I would think the timing is off.... I'm going to go rent a computer from Autozone to check the codes.... maybe it's a sensor
 






Valve timing should be fine unless you removed the timing chain and turned the crank without turning cam.
Ignition timing is the cam synchro, there is a procedure to set the timing in Haynes manual. I had to read it a couple times to get it but it’ not super hard just kind of a pain.

Just spinning the crank doesn’t change timing as long as everything stays connected. The key way keeps the balancer in the correct placement for the crank sensor.
 






The Balancer shouldn’t be able to turn freely. Did you forget to put the key back in?

And, I also agree the 1,600 ft pound rating of the impact is ridiculous.
 






Ok Went to autozone and talked to the manager. He said my timing is fine and that turning the harmonic balancer/crank shaft, independent of the other pulleys, has nothing to do with timing. After talking to him about my issues, he was nice enough to let me borrow his code reader. I attached them to this post. Also, Should I make a new topic or can anyone decipher these codes and why they triggered after replacing the harmonic balancer, engine oil/oil filter, and radiator fluid.
 

Attachments

  • CodeReaderCodes.pdf
    2.3 MB · Views: 232






The Balancer shouldn’t be able to turn freely. Did you forget to put the key back in?

And, I also agree the 1,600 ft pound rating of the impact is ridiculous.
I don't mean rotate on the shaft, But with the shaft. Because of the key, there's only one way to put it on. Could you check the codes in my previous post. Maybe they can shed light on whats going on.
 






I have a 1st gen so no specific advice
 






The crank sensor reads the gear on the back of the harmonic balancer to time the ignition much like a timing light of days of yore. If the sensor was damaged during replacement, it would cause issues a timing code.
 



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Could someone explain why all these codes are showing after the Harmonic Blancer replacement? I uploaded the pdf showing all the codes.
 

Attachments

  • CodeReaderCodes.pdf
    2.3 MB · Views: 261






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