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cracked diff. and running hot.

Discussion in 'Modified 1991-1994 Explorers' started by MountainMonkey, May 13, 2012.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    so heres a pic of why you dont buy a rough country lift.
    [​IMG]
    weird thing is i have the bumpstops on and i havent bottumed out since lifting...


    have a question too. my temp gauge for the rad i believe keeps saying the temp is really hot but the engine temp gauge doesnt move past the halfway point. i checked the fluid and its full and there doesnt seam to be any kinked hoses or anything and the fan that runs off the engine works. it only gets hot like this in 4x4 and is fine in 2 wheal. the rads not in mint condition by any means but its halfway decent. any idea what could cause this?
     
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  3. wood1

    wood1 Well-Known Member

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    That bolt loose? I would think it should protrude through the locknut a few threads. bracket looks loose too.
     
  4. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Yup.. that drop bracket can do wonders to the Pig..

    Ageman put a nice hole in the top of his on MLK weekend at truckhaven this year. That was his first run out. We threw some JBweld on top of it for now.. I think he sold the truck with the JBweld still on there.

    And that bolt does look loose to me too.. Or too short... But I see space between the brackets that I wouldn't expect.

    ~Mark
     
  5. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    ya it does look loose, but the place that the bracket is bolted to is like rounded and not sharp edges so the angle and how close up of a pic it is makes it look like theres a gap, but just to be safe before i take her out again next weekend i'll try and give the nut a turn.

    so i've never changed diff oil in a vehicle before.... do i need to take the diff right off the axle to remove the old oil? cant seam to find the drain plug. also what color should it be? clear, black or somewhere inbetwean? mine looks like chocolate milk and smells like rotten eggs.
     
  6. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    i think i saw his thread awhile back. i'm hoping to avoid a big hole in mine but then again that might be enough to make me actually go through with a sas.
     
  7. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    im thinking my truck might be over heating because the thermostat might be broke. i'll find out tomorrow, i think a replacment is less then 20$ so im hoping thats what it is.
     
  8. techieman33

    techieman33 Explorer Addict

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    Diff oil is usually clearish, I've seen red and purple though. It usually comes out black by the time it's drained. If it looks like chocolate milk then that means you've gotten water in there which is never a good thing. After you change the fluid you'll want to make sure you extend your breather line to keep that from happening again.
     
  9. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    There is no drain plug or cover to remove on the Dana 35 TTB front end.

    You need to remove the center pig to change the oil. I've "heard of" people drilling out the bottom bolt on the 3rd member and use that as a drain plug but I'm not sold on that, yet..

    You'll want to read up on it a bit before you do it.. The passenger side axle shaft is held in with a c-clip which makes pulling the 3rd member a pain. Also, there is a pinch bolt which won't come all the way out thanks to the Driver side Radius arm. The Radius arm has to be pulled outward first.

    I "guess" you could use a pump to get the fluid out but I don't trust that method since it won't pull out all the oil.

    ~Mark
     
  10. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    seams like alot of work. i think im just going to take the x to one of them places that does just oil changes. should only cost like 80$.
     
  11. 4x4junkie

    4x4junkie Well-Known Member

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    I've used the sucking-it-through-the-fill-hole method before. It works good if you lock the hubs in (leave the t-case in 2WD) and drive it about 10-15 miles before you suck the oil out. This gets all the crud/water/etc in there suspended in the oil so it'll be sucked out along with it.

    As for putting in a drain plug, I've done the lower bolt as a drain on mine. I've used it twice now (remove bottom bolt, oil drains out, put dab of RTV around bolt hole before reinserting bolt, fill diff with clean oil). Nothing really difficult about it... :scratch:
    You can always drill a hole in the bottom of the housing and put a plug in that way too. Either way it's much easier than sucking fluid out the fill hole (it might actually be possible to put a drain plug on the bottom without removing the diff. If you drill it with the diff still full of fluid, I suspect the oil would then carry the shavings out with it rather than have them end up inside. Maybe I'm way off though, never actually tried it. I do know I wouldn't use my best drill to do it though lol).
     
  12. Naasau

    Naasau Active Member

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    That sounds like it would make one hell of a mess out of any drill. With the higher viscosity of the oil and the probable water impregnation, I'd vote on either pulling the third member (and maybe doing some upgrades while you're in there) or taking it to some 'pro's' to get it done. Just double check their work.
     
  13. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    i think i'll try and drill a hole. i have an old drill i got from a garage sale so if it gets fried then so be it. not sure what to use as a plug afterwards though.


    still working on changing the thermostat. i removed the air intake and tried to remove the 3 bolts holding the thing on thats infront of the t-stat but i couldnt find a bit that fits the bolt, anyone know what size it is? seams to be a size inbetwean 3/8 and 7/16. and it looks like it will be nearly inpossible to get to 2 of the 3 bolts.
     
  14. tlutz211

    tlutz211 Member

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    It's a metric size... 10 mm socket, there is no direct am stand conversion for a 10 mm such as how u can use a 1/2" for 13 mm and 14 for for 9/16"
     
  15. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    have you cchanged a t-stat in an gen1 before tlutz211? if so how did you manage to get the two bolts that are kind of hidden behind everything?
     
  16. tlutz211

    tlutz211 Member

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    No sorry I've only owned a couple of 2nd gens but when u said the size was between 3/8 and 7/16 I knew what you were up against. I suggest investing (if you haven't already) in a Haynes manual available at auto parts stores for around fifteen dollars.mif not available chiltons should suffice for most things but in my experience the Haynes has more pictures which can be very beneficial.
     
  17. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  18. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    thnks that helps ALot. i need to remember to search the stock forum too.
     
  19. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Search the Useful thread forum. That's how I found it.. I just searched for thermostat and it only came up with 3 threads.. Since that forum is moderator controlled searches will only give you really good results without getting too detailed in the search terms.

    ~Mark
     
  20. Naasau

    Naasau Active Member

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    Why have I never thought of that?! I always used to search from the main page as it gives the most complete (and filled with crap) archive list.

    I do believe I now owe you beer maniak. :cheers:
     
  21. MountainMonkey

    MountainMonkey Active Member

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    ran into a bit of a problem. i got the thermostat out. well half of it anyways, and thats the problem. the t-stat broke in half right below where the gasket goes and i cant find the bottum half. i tried to fish around inside where all the coolant is but i couldnt find it. is there going to be a problem? or will it just rattle around in there and not mess with anything?


    [​IMG]
     

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