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Cruise control won't set

Wiley1

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December 11, 2009
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City, State
Norwalk, Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01 Sport, 03' XLT
2001 Explorer sport - When I go to set the cruise control, after pushing the "on" button on the left side of the steering wheel, I then push the "set accel" button on the right. The cc light in the instrument panel flashes on for a split second, then goes out. The cruise will not engage. Doesn't matter how many times I push or for how long I hold down the buttons, still no cruise...:mad: Any ideas???
 



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Most likely the pressure switch on the brake master cylinder is bad.
A very common problem.
 






Most likely the pressure switch on the brake master cylinder is bad.
A very common problem.

Yep, I had the same exact problem, it was the SCDS (Secondary Cruise control Deactivation Switch) aka the pressure switch on the master cylinder.

BTW, there is a recall to replace this switch on 2nd Gen Explorers. It is a safety recall, so you should be able to get it replaced for free.

Oh, yeah, it can short out and catch your Explorer on fire, so you might want to get it checked soon.
 






Dogfriend ~ good to know!
63e33a35-7a1f-4023-9696-bb93a4ce9857.jpg

Now that would be a bad day...
 






Won't the cruise control not work if you have a brake light out too?
 






Won't the cruise control not work if you have a brake light out too?

Not sure, but it won't disengage if the BOO (brake on off) switch is fubar. That is why Ford added the SCDS switch to the master cylinder. It is supposed to be a fail safe switch to disconnect the CC. That is why the CC won't work if the SCDS is bad. Unfortunately, they have a tendency to catch on fire and a near-100% failure rate. :p:
 






Cruise Inop

Hello, I just had the cc recall done on my 96x man trans. They did not replace the switch itself, just installed a wire harness. It does have the red-top sw @ the Master cyl. Do I need to replace the switch or is it something else? My cc did not work before and still doesn't. I push the on button - then the set/accel button and the cc light in the instrument cluster lights up. I have been searching threads but don't really know where to start.
Any help would be appreciated as I am still a newbie. Thank's!!!
 






I believe that the "harness" is basically just an in line fuse which probably isn't going to solve your problem should the switch leak and "flash" to ignite the "oil accelerant".... the fuse will too late. Its ford attempt of doing a "cheap fix" instead of replacing the faulty switch which is the problem. If you follow the "history", ford originally claimed that the problem was associated with a "constant powered, non fused" circuit and their "solution" was to put the fuse in.... HOWEVER, as you will see in 96 at least, the circuit already is fused and is switched thru your ignition so their "claim" is some what "suspect" since 96's (and others) were added to the list in the most recent recall. Anyways, I hope you don't have any problems with their "fix"... it would be sad that some one lost their vehicle or worse because of what appears to be a "less than appropriate action" to solve this problem ... in my opinion.

As for replacing the switch to solve your cc problem.... check it with a meter, if its open with vehicle just sitting there, then you have a bad switch.... but your observation about the light coming on would suggest otherwise.
 






Cruise Inop

Budwich, Thank's for your reply. I checked across the switch and you are correct. It does have continuity across the pins with the car off and key removed. If someone has the part # I would like to purchase a new switch, just to be safe!!! I don't want my house to burn down!!! Any other leads to check out would be great.:thumbsup:
Thanx! Rick
 






Hello, I just had the cc recall done on my 96x man trans. They did not replace the switch itself, just installed a wire harness. It does have the red-top sw @ the Master cyl. Do I need to replace the switch or is it something else? My cc did not work before and still doesn't. I push the on button - then the set/accel button and the cc light in the instrument cluster lights up. I have been searching threads but don't really know where to start.
Any help would be appreciated as I am still a newbie. Thank's!!!

The black top switch is the replacement for the original red top switch that has a high failure rate. I show both of them in this post:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1497378&postcount=7

When my switch failed, the symptoms were exactly the same as noted in the first post of this thread: the CC light would only come on for a fraction of a second and then go off again with no CC engagement.
 






I've got a similar problem, had the recall done and I've tested the switch and it was good, so far no luck.
 






may be prob with mine i think do i call ford for this recall?
 






Cruise Inop

Dogfriend, Thank's for the info. My switch is not leaking so Ford did not replace it is what the work order states. I will go ahead and purchase one like yours to be safe! I will keep searching threads for more info on this.
Thanx!:thumbsup:
 






Would it be possible for the BOO switch to be partially bad? Based on this image, it has five electrical prongs, could the ones for the brake lights be good and the ones for the CC be bad?

getimage.php
 






It could be a bulb. I had a 91 Aerostar with a similar problem. It may help.

The CC light would come on for a split second and then off... but cruise would not engage.

Figured out that this would only happen at night.

Got me thinking...it was a brake light bulb. Seems the filament was broken for the park lights and must have fell onto the brake like filament.

So cruise would work, until I'd turn on the headlights!
new bulb corrected it.
 






Budwich, Thank's for your reply. I checked across the switch and you are correct. It does have continuity across the pins with the car off and key removed. If someone has the part # I would like to purchase a new switch, just to be safe!!! I don't want my house to burn down!!! Any other leads to check out would be great.:thumbsup:
Thanx! Rick
If I understand you correctly, you mean that the switch tested OK... basically it has continuity.... I kind of figured that cause your dash light comes on. Although it is probably a good idea to replace the switch (I haven't yet... me dummy plus cash squeezed), your problem is probably in your control module / linkage to the throttle system.... or possibly your clutch position switch. One small question... does your light go out and act "normally" when you clutch or depress your brake when you are going down the road with cc "on" and "activated" according to its "thinking"????

As for others, if your light doesn't come on or only comes on briefly, it is likely you have switch problems, beit, the pressure switch, the BOO, the clutch position, or the activation switch/wiring in the steering. IF your light comes on and stays on BUT reacts normally to brake depresses, clutching etc, then it is likely you have a linkage issue between the cc servo and the throttle system.
 






Would it be possible for the BOO switch to be partially bad? Based on this image, it has five electrical prongs, could the ones for the brake lights be good and the ones for the CC be bad?

It is possible, but I think you would probably have some other weird symptoms, like the torque converter clutch staying engaged when you hit the brakes.
 

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i have the same problem with my cc. the light only flashes for a split second with no engagement. the interesting thing is, it didn't start doing this until AFTER i had it in for the recall on this very problem. suspicious IMO
 






i have the same problem with my cc. the light only flashes for a split second with no engagement. the interesting thing is, it didn't start doing this until AFTER i had it in for the recall on this very problem. suspicious IMO

Yip that is suspicious
 



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somewhat suspicious...perhaps the ford "fix" is really a "***".... anyways, you might want to check for voltage at the connector to the pressure switch... with the key in "on". There should be some.... but perhaps their "fix" results in a "quickly blown fuse" which then will make your CC "think" that your pressure switch "switched"... :)
 






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