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Custom Sub Enclosure (not the hidden one)

Discussion in 'Explorer Audio & Navigation' started by taxx, January 13, 2002.

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    1. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      I Have a nice setup now.. But have no Lows. Mediums and highs are great but I NEED lows. I am trying to decide how I want to do it. I don't think I will get what I want out of the MTX, CLarion, and Q-logic hidden boxes and I don't want to spend that much money for a box (no offense, I did look at them originaly). Anyway, back to my problem. I had one 12" years ago and it hit hard and loud, but the box was huge. I am thinking one 12 or two 10s. I had two ideas for a box so far. Since I use my cargo area quite often I don't want to lose it. But I can sacrifice some space. The first idea was to build and enclosure on the right side that would fit right up against the side panel and go to the height of the bottom of the window. But I am thinking it might need to come out pretty far to get the air space. My other idea was to get a shallow sub or two and build upt the floor 6 or 8 inches and mount the subs flush to the floor maybe facing down so I can still have a nice cargo area? What are some ideas?
       
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    3. Alec

      Alec Elite Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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      I had 2 10s mounted isobarically in a box that was about a square foot. They hit well, but weren't as clear as some other setups. All in all they took up space about 12x12x18. Now I have 1 8 that's much better and sits in a much smaller box. The box is 9x9x10. It's not much space at all. It has quick discos and handles for easy removal.
       
    4. VairKing

      VairKing Elite Explorer<br>Midwest-Xplorer Member

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      when you shop for a sub, keep your volume in mind. todays modern subs require a very small box. i used to have two polk audio momo 10's, and i think the volume was right around .6 cubic feet. one twelve would be a little bit more than that, but not too much. this is of course with a sealed box, as a ported box requires a lot more air space. good luck.
       
    5. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      Box Volume is key I want tons of input on that one. Also dealing with volume is shape, do we want angles or as square as possible?

      Do we have seperate enclosures for each sub or do they share airspace? In the past I have shared it what would be the difference?

      I have been giving a great deal of thought on the raised floor idea and flush mounting my amps with it and maybe have it light up EXPLORER or something unique, but what direction should the subs point? I am thinking down, am I right? Then how far does the box need to sit from the floor?

      I know in the old days (ok) in the early 90's we packed our enclosures with cotton do we still do that these days?
       
    6. Hartman

      Hartman Explorer Addict

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      Building up the floor would take quite a bit of work. I like side panel idea.

      BTW, which part of Indy do you live in?
       
    7. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      Just north of Clermont, by Eagle Creek. You?

      It seems to me the floor would take the same amount of effort, unless I am missing somthing? It would just basically be a box that is fit to the entire back of the truck coming up over the wheel wells making a new floor a few inches higher. Maybe put a piece of plexiglass on the rear so you can see the subs.
       
    8. VairKing

      VairKing Elite Explorer<br>Midwest-Xplorer Member

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      as far as volume, the sub you buy will tell you how much is ideal, +/- 10%. as far as the shape, keep it as square as possible, avoid sharp angles. with my last setup, i had 2 10's pushed up against the back seat, firing back towards the hatch. i tried all other combinations except firing down, and firing back was by far the loudest. you want to seperate the airspace. i know you mentioned not wanting one of the hidden boxes, but i recently bought a JL audio Stealth box on ebay for $100. i put a 10" sony explode cheapy i had layin around, and hooked it to the factory sub amp. i was extremely impressed with the way it sounded, with that crappy amp/sub combo. i will be putting in a 1000 watt audiobahn amp/sub really soon. i think ford has put some engineering into this location, and that is why i am locating my new sub there. packing the box with cotton is what you do if your enclosure is too small for your sub. it will trick your sub into thinking the box is bigger. lining your box with dynamat will help the sound a lot. hope this helps, i am fairly knowledgable on the subject, so ask anything!
       
    9. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      So the dynomat doesn't muffle the sound or anything? Interesting. You say seperate the airspace, that seems to make more sense. As far as aiming them down, how much space do they need from the floor? And with an inclosure like this do you think my sound will be better with a couple 10's, 2 12's, 1 12, or what? Also since you have heard the steath box, don't you think I can get more out of what I am considering?
       
    10. nosaj122081

      nosaj122081 Active Member

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      You don't want sound leaking through the box, it will cancel out the sound you want, so deadening the box as best as possible is always a good thing.

      Actually, a box as square as possible is a BAD thing... You don't want boxes that are perfect cubes, it could create standing waves. Low frequency waves are quite long so standing waves in car audio aren't USUALLY a problem, but just because you cross a speaker over at a certain frequency it doesn't mean that frequencies above the crossover point aren't being reproduced at all.

      Use approx. a pound of Poly-Fill per cubic foot of airspace... Good rule of thumb.
       
    11. epicritic

      epicritic New Member

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      I also throw stuff into the cargo space. My set up is quite simple: 1 rockford fosgate 10" in a bandpass enclosure which sounds tiiiighht!!! Louder than many of my buddies with 2 tens in an enclosed box (of course they keep there subs in the trunk while we have a totally open area).

      Anyways, the set up is relatively small and if i need the extra cargo room i just disconnect the 2 wires and remove the box. But as of yet I havent had the need to do that.

      Also the cargo cover thingy covers the sub box perfectly
      I dont know what your needs are but this setup is adequate for my simple taste.
       
    12. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      Yeah I thought of a small box too. However the cover does not go on in my current situation. My 4 channel amp is on the back of a seat and it is too big so the cover won't fit now. With a custom (perminent) emclosure I could flush mount my amps and then have my cargo area and use the cover. I am not knockin your idea, it may still come down to that.
       
    13. Black Magic

      Black Magic Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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      I still like the stealth box from Q-logic, That way you can use any sub you want. I choose the RF HE2 with an 800 watt Amp. I hits very good. Sure it is not as hard as a couple of 10's or 12's but for the space you save it still sounds great!

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]
       
    14. KMac

      KMac Active Member

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      I just installed a Q-logic box in my '98. The fit was perfect until I got to the grill. That POS couldn't have fit any worse. Q-Logic states to leave a 1/8" gap all the way around for the grill, but the cover plate they have doesn't fit the factory recess area worth a crap. I've got 1/4" gaps on the wheel hump and one of the sides with 1/8" everywhere else. I'm going to have to hot glue that sumbeotch into place. The Grill notwithstanding, I was pleased with the Q-logic unit.
       
    15. Black Magic

      Black Magic Moderator Emeritus Moderator Emeritus

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      I agree, as you can see I don't have the grill on either. However, even if it did fit great the speaker has about an 1/2 inch excursion and hits the grill anyway, so I couldn't use it. I do sometimes worry about things in the back hitting my speaker.
       
    16. Yng_pnk

      Yng_pnk Active Member

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      I once saw a 10 munted on the back seat of a 93, It was a JL 10. the box was about 6 3/4 Inches deep and was formed from a mixture of wood and fiber glass. It folded down with the seat, the only problem i saw with it is that it was kind of heavy for being on the seat, im sure if it was completely made of fiberglass it wouldnt be too heavy.
       
    17. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      Need help, More questions: :hammer:

      I talked to some stereo shop folks and they recomend mounting the subs facing UP. My original idea was to point at the floor but this seems to make more logic. If I mount them up then how do I carry stuff, two answers, bandpass box or heavy duty grills ( then put matching cartpet on them). What are some pros and cons of each? (The grills would only be used when needed).

      The first Pro I can think of is for the enclosed box, subs exposed, is that (besides looking cool) I wouldn't have to raise my floor as high (probably 6 -7 inches instead of 10 - 11) BIGGG DIfferance.
       
    18. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      Ooops I forgot to ask:

      If I buy two 10" subs that require around .7 Ft 3, How can that be laid out. If I make it square can the magnet be just .25" from the back of the box and get space to the side? Or do you need more space in the rear?
       
    19. VairKing

      VairKing Elite Explorer<br>Midwest-Xplorer Member

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      When I first had my 2 Polk Audio MOMO 10's, my windows were not tinted. I pointed them into the back seat for security reasons. After I tinted my windows, I tried pointing them up, but was not impressed with the sound. I then tried pointing them towards the hatch, and I was extremely suprised at how much more bass response, and how much more punch could be heard/felt up front. My girlfriend has a Grand Chereokee, with 2 12" Kickers, and they sound best facing up. I think it just depends on the vehicle and subs. Try different possibilities and go with what sounds best. As far as the box, when I had my Ranger regular cab I built a box to fit behind the pass. seat. The magnet of the sub was less than .25 from the back, and it sounded fine. Im not sure if this would be the same for all subs. Hope this helps!
       
    20. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      yeah, back in the day I had a Jimmy with one twelve (forget what) facing up and it sounded better than back. I don't know yet though, I really want to point them up but not if the sound quality suckx.

      Anybody running MTX Thunder 6000's? Just curious how they do. They seem to be in my price range. JL is out unless I find them used. So, I am looking middle of the line.
       
    21. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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      OK. I started work on the enclosure. (I will post the pictures as soon as I can change my DNS entry now that @home screwed me up). Here is what I have decided to do...(explained the best I can)

      I raised the floor a total of 6.5 inches. With 3/4 in boards that gives me 5 inches inside the "new" floor. At the front I am going to angle it up at 45 degrees so my speakers are pointing up and back. To fit the face of a 10" sub it will come up to the top of the trim just before the glass on the sides. Because of this I am getting all the airspace I need and want above the raised floor. You may ask why I still choose to raise the floor?... Well it is simple, with a raised floor I can hide my amps under the enclosure along with the pc I am mounting in my x (see: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41721). Then I have the back half for storage, jack, tow rope... that sort of stuff, with a hinged lid. Will keep you all informed of the project as it goes along.

      My only question is this... WHERE CAN I FIND CARPET THAT MATCHES MY GREY CARPET?
       
    22. taxx

      taxx Make em say Ugh

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    23. Sensei Wu

      Sensei Wu New Member

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