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Dana 44???

TM-oregon85

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March 8, 2012
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City, State
Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 explorer
Iv been reading about different people doing a sas d44. Now i would like to talk to some people that know more than me. To start what i need, 3 u joints, 2 ball joints, new steering linkage, more ground clearance, less 3 wheeling more 4x4. so i have a friend that has a d44 but i need to have it cut down. I think im going to trad my 2" i think its skyjacker..? whit long arm for the d44. So like i said i just want to start talking to some of you any thing you want to add is cool! Like cost do's and dont's...
 



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if your doing a d44 sas and need to have it narrowed why not use a stronger axle to begin with? it would be more or less the exact same process as using a d44 but the end result would be far superior.
 






It sounds like he can get the d44 cheap, so that is probable a factor.
Why not leave it full width? better off camber stability, and it looks cool as hell. Just find a cheap full width rear axle from an f150 or something and go.
 






I think im only going to run 33s. Are you thinking d60? If so i think that a little bit for me.
 






The reason i want to cut id down is i live in Oregon most of the trails you cant get a full size down to many trees.
 






Nothing wrong with running 33's on a D44. D60 is probably overkill and they can be expensive to pick up in some places compared to a 44.

Do you know what kind of suspension you want? Leafs? Coils? Radius Arms? Three link? etc. Or are you just going to see what you can find for axles and use which suspension best suits the axle and your budget?

If you're going through the trouble, try and find a High Pinion. The following link has tons of information on the D44:
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44.htm

If you're going to have it narrowed you'll want to avoid the '78-79 Ford versions with the cast on C's for the radius arms and try and find a version that's already setup for leafs or coils or has the weld on C's.

Keep in mind that you may need to re-gear the axle to match your current gears. (Or re-gear your rear to match your front). You'll almost definitely need new wheels since I don't believe the D44 cam with 5 x 4.5 lug pattern. So you'll need to run an adapter in the back or get new rear axles if you want the front and rear bolt patterns to match.

Are you going to run a locker? You'll have to consider what kind you want, or might want in the future. If your happy with a lunch box style locker like a lock right or Aussie locker, it's pretty straight forward. If you ever plan on doing a full carrier like a Detroit or ARB, you might want to consider doing it all right from the beginning since you essentially will have to through the same process of re-gearing to install the locker.

Check out the SAS registry, there's tons of builds in there will lots of details of the things you'll have to watch out for.

If you can find a complete axle I recommend the following as part of the rebuild:
- new u-joints, rotors, pads and seals

And then the others you want to look and replace as needed are:
- calipers (for some models these are super chear)
- axles axle shafts (depending on the age of the axle would you trust 30 year old axle shafts?
- bearings
- hubs
 






Has anyone used d44 out of an early ford bronco the box bodies on them look not as wide as full size truck or later full size bronco would the length be different on d44 axle?
 






Yes but i dont have the money for a classic bronco 44 and like i said im not going to use my 2" lift or my ttb 35 so im trading it for a full with d44. and i think the full size bronco is the same as a full size truck.
 






Thanks for the info, now I know what axle to get.
 












If you don't want full width, 80s Wagoneer 44s and the Early Bronco 44s are perfect widths. Yes the FSB is the same width as the trucks, but have the cast wedges like mentioned before. That's what I had in mine and it worked great.

DB_1 has a low-pinion EB 44.
Rockranger has a Wagoneer 44.
section525 used a Wagoneer 44
Mine was a narrowed 78 Ford 44.

Check the SAS registries forum.
 






Thanks, I have been checking out the SAS section on this web site, I'm doing research and tring to come up with a suspention SAS using my class II Skyjacker radious arms and coilover set up.
 






My rig had the skyjacker radius arm crossmember with the bronco arms. Just used the 7° C-bushings for caster and had the passenger side arm wristed. It works perfect.

RAXMember.jpg
 






Thats cool, Thanks Froader, what dose wristed mean?
 












Ok got it, thats why I was thinking of fab some heim joints where the radius arm bushings would go and be able to adjust caster.
 






I think im only going to run 33s. Are you thinking d60? If so i think that a little bit for me.

A SAS just to run 33s? :scratch: You've already got an axle under there that is 90-95% of what a D44 is just with swapping the stock hubs to Warn #37780 Jeep hubs (it'll easily spin 35s too).
You mentioned something about "3 wheeling"... Have you thought about just putting better springs under there that'll actually flex? Maybe work some bugs out of the steering too, if needed?

A SAS seems like a lot of work (especially with narrowing the axle) for not a lot of gain without using a better axle like MountainMonkey mentions (and of course taking advantage of it's ability to spin bigger tires too).
 






Thanks, I have been checking out the SAS section on this web site, I'm doing research and tring to come up with a suspention SAS using my class II Skyjacker radious arms and coilover set up.

Could you post a pic of them? i think thats what i have. and i dont like them.
 






I would post pics if I knew how om this web site, any advise?
 



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why even go through the trouble with only running 33s?the 44 isnt even that much stronger than the d35 and d35 will handle 33s
 






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