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Dash cam install - anyone do it yet?

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Deleted member 348855

I have a Thinkcam that I plan to hardwire into the fuse panel using add-a-circuit adapters (used them on my F150 with no issues). Anyone hardwire a dash cam in yet and if so what fuse locations did you use for constant and ACC power?
 



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I was thinking about doing it but noticed the Ford Accessories Thinkware kit has wiring for the OBDII port. I guess there might be an issue with auto start-stop. Did you have any issues with your F150?

Here's a good thread on an older Explorer:
Thinkware F750 front & rear dashcam hardwire install (Ford Explorer 2011-2017)

I didn't have any issues with the F150 but it didn't have the auto stop/start feature. I'll get out the multimeter and do some testing today
 






I'm putting mine back in this weekend from my 5th gen.
 






I have a Thinkcam that I plan to hardwire into the fuse panel using add-a-circuit adapters (used them on my F150 with no issues). Anyone hardwire a dash cam in yet and if so what fuse locations did you use for constant and ACC power?
There should be no issues with auto start/stop. The vehicle does not go into accessory mode when it stops so it wont power down.
 






I used fuse location 29 (spare) for the constant power and location 2 (moonroof/doorswitch pack) for ignition. Only issue is the fuse taps don't fit very snug, if I gently hit the cable the fuse tap pops out. I placed a little dab of hot glue to hold them in place. So far so good.
 






i have an owlcam that i pulled from my previous explorer. gets all power from the ODB port. No issues at all with it so far.

edit: other than the fact the dash ipad gets in the way of the view! :)
 






anyone wire up the rear? I ran the included cable that my Thinkware came with and it's about a foot short. I wonder if I can just get a 2 foot micro usb extender and be OK.

In any case, I ran the rear micro USB cable back down the driver's a-pillar (same as power cable), along the side floor and tucked under plastic side trim. Once at the third row, the cupholder trim just pops right up and extends to the very back. Cable fished up the d-pillar and under the soft roof liner at the top of the hatch. I had wanted to fish it in the rubber boot to make it to the hatch but it's too short.
 






anyone wire up the rear? I ran the included cable that my Thinkware came with and it's about a foot short. I wonder if I can just get a 2 foot micro usb extender and be OK.

In any case, I ran the rear micro USB cable back down the driver's a-pillar (same as power cable), along the side floor and tucked under plastic side trim. Once at the third row, the cupholder trim just pops right up and extends to the very back. Cable fished up the d-pillar and under the soft roof liner at the top of the hatch. I had wanted to fish it in the rubber boot to make it to the hatch but it's too short.

The cable I got with my thinkware rear camera left me with around 5ft of slack but I just routed mine up along the top rather than along the floor.
 






The cable I got with my thinkware rear camera left me with around 5ft of slack but I just routed mine up along the top rather than along the floor.

OK thanks. Were you able to get most of the cable pretty much hidden? The nice thing about the floor is it's completely hidden all the way back. I think the stock Thinkware rear cable is 24.5ft...I thought that would be enough but guess not.

Another question: did you run the cable through one of the two rubber boots or just out the end of the roof liner? Through the boots seems like a royal pain but cleaner.
 






OK thanks. Were you able to get most of the cable pretty much hidden? The nice thing about the floor is it's completely hidden all the way back. I think the stock Thinkware rear cable is 24.5ft...I thought that would be enough but guess not.

Another question: did you run the cable through one of the two rubber boots or just out the end of the roof liner? Through the boots seems like a royal pain but cleaner.

Easiest way is along the roofline. Open doors, pop the top of the door seals off which exposes the edge of the roof liner. Run it along the edge and tuck it in, use a snake for wiring to pull it through the B pillar, run along headliner again and tuck along edges. Then just snap the rubber seals back on, cant see anything.
 






No. because chances are I would only implicate myself. Lol
 












OK thanks. Were you able to get most of the cable pretty much hidden? The nice thing about the floor is it's completely hidden all the way back. I think the stock Thinkware rear cable is 24.5ft...I thought that would be enough but guess not.

Another question: did you run the cable through one of the two rubber boots or just out the end of the roof liner? Through the boots seems like a royal pain but cleaner.

Cable is completely hidden, would never know it was there other than the 1.5" section from the rear camera into the trim piece. Rest is as blwnsmoke stated above. I ran it through the 2 rubber boots, remove the boots and use a little bit of lubricant and a snake (I used a wire similar to a coat hanger) to pull the cable through. Word of caution, when removing the rubber seals from around the door frames, especially the rear hatch, don't get the adhesive on your skin or clothes. It was a nightmare to remove.
 






Finished up my thinkware install today using a 3.3 ft usb extender and through the hatch boot so it looks clean. Thanks for everyone's input!
 






Well ends up I am not having any success with parking mode. Never had this issue with my previous vehicles but even though I am selecting a constant power fuse location, the camera turns off immediately after shutting the Explorer off. It also shuts off due to the auto stop/start. Once Thinkware gets the ODB adapters back in stock I plan on ordering one.

Anyone else successfully get a Thinkware dash cam to work in parking mode when only using fuse taps? What fuse locations did you use?
 






Anyone else successfully get a Thinkware dash cam to work in parking mode when only using fuse taps? What fuse locations did you use?

That's odd. I used the fuse locations you suggested (thank you) and everything seems to work just fine. i have it in energy savings parking mode though with cam shutdown at 12.2V. Q800pro model.

8EE3A242-A8C3-4BF0-9CB9-E7B2F4A64613.jpeg
 






That's odd. I used the fuse locations you suggested (thank you) and everything seems to work just fine. i have it in energy savings parking mode though with cam shutdown at 12.2V. Q800pro model.

View attachment 174952
So.... I just remembered that I purchased this kit a long time ago and it was when they were shipping the wiring kit with the cable colours crossed so for mine red is constant and yellow is ignition. Swapped them around and it's working properly.

On another note, how do you like the Q800pro? I was thinking about upgrading to it for the better quality. Unless the car in front of me is within 10 ft of my bumper the F770 isn't the greatest for reading license plates.
 






i haven't had much time to look at the footage on the computer. just a cursory look on the smartphone, so I can't give much feedback. glad to hear your issue was easy to fix.
 



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Lots of good suggestions. I think I can handle the wiring but I don't have confidence in pulling down the headliner or the assembly behind the mirror. Lots of stuff up there and I don't want to break something. I wired the 2016 directly to the overhead curtesy lights and that was easy but the new machine tolerances are much tighter and I didn't have a vent in the A pillar. Anybody done a video?
 






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