DOHC 4.6L V8 build

[2000StreetRod]

head gaskets

I've already purchased and received a set of MLS Fel-Pro head gaskets. Rock Auto had a sale a while back so I took advantage of it. I also purchased a set of their head bolts for the same reason. I thought about buying a set of reusable ARP head studs/nuts but they are expensive and I don't know if the heads can be removed/installed with the engine in the vehicle with head studs. The machinist will evaluate the block and head surfaces and the head gaskets. If he thinks the compression ratio will be less than what I want he can mill a little more off either or both. I'm hoping to get all of the internals right the first time so I don't have to pull the engine or take it apart again.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's a lot of work, but to assemble an engine is a great time. Get everything done and right, clean etc, and then slowly get into the build. That's the best part, go slow and enjoy it.

 

[Sedition]

Are you going to have your block bored with the cast-in-place Iron sleeves in place?

 

[2000StreetRod]

boring the cylinders

The sleeves will be bored while installed in the block. The machinist does not have a 4.6L torque plate for boring my cylinders. He said he will torque the crank main caps (using the old vertical bolts and my new reusable ARP side bolts) to load the block. He said for the 4.6L block the head bolts are long and reach deep into the block near the mains so a torque plate isn't necessary. Since I don't plan to exceed the stock rpm limiter or race I'm not concerned about not using a torque plate.

The machinist's supplier in Charlotte was not agreeable to substituting the JE pistons for the Arias pistons in the Eagle rotating assembly kit. The supplier said the kits come configured from Eagle. I think I've located an alternative source at a decent price but the initial quote didn't include the main bearings. I should be able to get an entire rotating assembly configured as I want for about $1725 plus shipping cost.

The machine shop charges $75 to clean the block (includes removal of gallery and freeze plugs and then reinstallation. It costs $145 to bore the block and I think $150 to mill the deck. I don't remember what it costs to balance the rotating assembly but I think its about $150. I got a quote a while back from a shop that does only heads and I think it was $300 for valve grind and seals. I don't know what it would cost to mill the heads. Adding up the numbers gives me an appreciation of the cost charged for a remanufactured engine. But a remanufactured engine would not have all new rotating assembly or forged pistons and rods nor my desired compression ratio. A performance crate engine would probably have an 8 bolt forged crank requiring a new nonstandard flexplate. Also, I wouldn't be involved in assembling a remanufactured or crate engine and would miss out on all the fun and learning.

The last engine I rebuilt was in 1979 when I bored my 1973 Volvo 142S block from 2.0L to 2.2L. The machinist asked me why I was bothering to increase the performance of a Volvo.

 

[Sedition]

The last engine I rebuilt was in 1979 when I bored my 1973 Volvo 142S block from 2.0L to 2.2L. The machinist asked me why I was bothering to increase the performance of a Volvo.

That one made me chuckle.

~Milling heads costs me about $82 each, that also includes a wash and a hardness test. Crack testing is another $82 and takes all day.

~A wire wheel on a bench grinder and a cordless drill makes short work of cleaning up valves like new. But grinding all the valves with a lapping handle until they seal perfectly will take you all day and give you sore hands, especially if there's some twist on those heads.

Unfortunately I can't find any information on removing the sleeves. I can't tell if they're ribbed on the OD and need to be bored out (Like an LS1) or if they can be extracted with a jig or by tapping them out after applying heat to the block (like the Bosch 4.6l).

 

[2000StreetRod]

new pistons

The new JE +.020 pistons, rings and pins arrived today.

The Eagle crank, rods with bolts and bearings were supposed to be shipped mid December. The delay is the availability of the ARP rod bolts. The ones that are supposed to be shipped with my cast crank are rated to 600 hp but not available. I could upgrade to the ARP2000 series bolts for an additional cost but don't see the need since my cast crank is only good to 500 hp. I'm in no hurry since I'm busy trying to prepare my backyard for spring.

 

[4pointslow]

Pistons

They look amazing!
Before you know it those rod bolts will be there, and so will spring!

 

[CDW6212R]

That's a good looking piston, I expect it's both light and strong.

 

[jrobie79]

any updates?

 

[2000StreetRod]

awaiting delivery

I have still not received the crank, rods and bearings from Eagle. They have not been able to obtain the required rod cap bolts from ARP. It may be May before they ship the assembly.

 

[4pointslow]

May

Its May, have you heard anything?

 

[2000StreetRod]

No news yet

Its May, have you heard anything?

The vendor I purchased my Eagle rotating assembly from has offered a couple times to substitute a Scat rotating assembly but I declined. Since late February I have been very active in a state and national political party so I'm OK with waiting. Also, I'm pretty busy with my landscaping and backyard fruit garden plants and trees. My next door neighbor is getting an in ground swimming pool installed and I've been transferring excess dirt to fill my terraces and erosion ditch.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Eagle rotating assembly shipped!

Today I received notification that my Eagle rotating assembly has finally been shipped! When it is received I'll load everything (block, rotating assembly, etc.) in the back of my Sport and take them to the machine shop for boring and decking the block and balancing the rotating assembly.

 

[4pointslow]

Parts

Glad your parts are finally on their way!

 

[2000StreetRod]

Here's a photo of the connecting rods and crankshaft. I plan to deliver them, the pistons and block to the machine shop in about 2 weeks.

 

[CDW6212R]

Great to see you back Dale, get back on that engine project my friend.

 

[4pointslow]

They look like very high quality parts, this engine is going to be a powerful one!

 

[jd4242]

I have heard and read many horror stories about people boring this block with out a tq plate and having issues with the rings not sealling..id be very concerned about not using one..

If im following this correct your going with a stock crank,stock size rods and .020 over pistons? ?

What is the part number on your heads??i can personally tell you the ""DB"" heads need broonze guides and new exhaust seats..they are very well known for coming loose..i just had my heads done,costed me $1,000 for new seats,new broonze inserts, valve job and deck..i used MMR valves

 

[jd4242]

Also may want to consider doing the rear crossover coolant mod..it allows coolant out of the back of both heads then "T"s into the heat hose..mustang guys swear by it..it clears my firewall

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mod-4-...over-Port-Mustang-96-04-/131905793541?vxp=mtr

@2000StreetRod

 

[2000StreetRod]

. . . If I'm following this correctly you are going with a stock crank, stock size rods and .020 over pistons?

That's correct. The crank is cast. The pistons and rods are forged.

What is the part number on your heads? I can personally tell you the ""DB"" heads need bronze guides and new exhaust seats. They are very well known for coming loose. I just had my heads done-cost me $1,000 for new seats, new bronze inserts, valve job and deck. I used MMR valves

My 2003 Aviator engine heads (right P/N 2C5Z-6049-AG, left P/N 2C5Z-6049-DA) are the ones with only 4 spark plug threads and the coolant flow issues. The 2005 Aviator heads have 9 spark plug threads and the coolant flow issues have been corrected.