Driveshaft removal problem

[PekingMan]

OK, I'm trying to replace the rear Transfer case output seal since the back of my transfer case was covered with a crap load of oil. After marking the driveshaft and flange, I was able to get the 4 bolts off the rear flange of the differential. However, the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to to output yoke of the transfer case are another story. My air gun, even on setting 4, won't get these suckers off. I think it probably has to do with the fact that they are covered in oil but I'm not entirely sure. Has anyone had a similair problem or have any suggestions? Oh, and yes, I have used liqiud wrench and scraped off as much of the oil as I can.

 

[irtySanchez]

Whoa, I have never seen that happen before.

Maybe try to drive a chisel between the two to break the seal????? Be careful when you do that.

 

[88vert]

Have you tried putting a little heat on them?

 

[PekingMan]

irtySanchez, I tried just banging on it with a hammer to break the seal but to no avail. 88vert, didn't think of that one. I also just may go out and buy a stronger air gun, but I shouldn't need to be applying that much torque to get these suckers off.

 

[Texan01]

when I replaced the pinion seal on my 95 I had to get my 12 point wrench out and about 6 cans of whup-up out after my impact regulated to 120psi couldn't budge them.

 

[irtySanchez]

Whenever I can't get a bolt loose, I put a 4 foot pipe on the wrench, ratchet, or whatever tool you are using and push like hell. That usually gives you about 500 pounds of torque and breaks ANYTHING loose.

Just an idea.....

 

[Howard]

I had something similar when I put new UJ's in. I found the best way was to put the diff end bolts back in and with the rear on the deck use a long bar with six sided socket and they should then loosen. Impact just doesn't break the anti loosen fluid that Ford put on where as steady torque does. Be very carful if you use heat with all that oil ( fire hazard ).

 

[PekingMan]

irtySanchez & Howard, I was originally trying that were I put cheater bar on the wrench. The only problem was that as I applied torque, the driveshaft would spin and car starting to move because I had the transmission in neutral and the parking brake off (I did block the tires though). The Haynes manual says to put the tranny in neutral and the set the parking brake off. Does this sound right or should I at least put on the parking brake?

 

[Howard]

I put mine in park and applied the brake ( you need all the help you can get ) Put blocks either side of all four wheels for your own protection.

 

[ajevenson]

I took mine off this weekend. All I did was use a propane torch for about 10 seconds on each bolt and kept cycling through the bolts for a few minutes, then let them cool for a while so I didnt bend em. They all came out with a 12 point box end wrench with no cheater bar on it. Definately clean the entire thing with a degreaser so that you dont have a 4 alarm fire on your hands!!

 

[Muskrat]

don't know, but I just use a 12mm 12point box wrench, and hit it with a hammer, I've never had a problem, but those sound too damn tight. There is locktite on the threads, I'd try heat

 

[PekingMan]

Cool, or not cool actually. I will try a torch. Although, a buddy of mine recommended using brake fluid to break up all the crap on the bolts. Anyone else use this idea? Figured it was worth a shot. Time to bust out the torch. I get to it again on Wed.