E-4WD is not engaging.

[CaseyJ955]

I just picked upa 97 XLT 4x4 and there is no action with the front wheels locking in. There is no indicator light or sound, or anything to indicate that it's even trying to work. All the components seem to be there and there is no fault code by the OD switch light and no blown fuses. I just put in a fresh battery a few days ago to get her home so there were no codes at that time but yesterday I tromped on it it a couple times and ended up with a CEL.

I plugged in my Scangauge II and found P1443, and the inability to scroll through and see the two remaining codes. I will have it scanned with a better device and find out what the other codes are. I'm unsure if a TC fault code would appear as a flashing OD light or a CEL. I looked up the P1443 code I understand what it is, the other two I cant see are maybe not related if TC faults don't go to CEL. The OD light comes on only when OD is cancelled and at no other time, and no flashing. That part functions as it should.

This van was borrowed by a family member for a week, it ended up with three different tire sizes ranging from 195 to 225 on the 14" rims, the two 195s up front. I know thats really bad for any AWD or full time 4wd, but I have read that this one is disengaged until slippage is detected. It was only driven like that for a few days but I'm not sure what the real world effect was on this particular system that is supposed to be disengaged until slippage is detected (?).

Information on the E4WD seems quite elusive and I have searched plenty. Many thanks for any guidance or links that I may have missed that cover this. Sorry this is long, I thought I better include pertinent info and answer some of the questions that I anticipate may be asked.

EDIT: I've been reading up on what it would take to convert to a manual TC and front lock outs, either manual or electrically switchable. I know where there are several parts Explorers. I would rather just fix it and move on to other things, but if this is going to turn into a complicated expensive repair then I'm willing to make the 4WD system fully manual. Unfortunately I have to keep the auto trans so wife can drive it too.

TIA!

Tony

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you check the electrical plug on the transfer case, the bulkhead connector in the wiring bundle, and the actuator on the transfer case with a multimeter? Sometimes it could be something simple like corrosion, a bent pin or a loose connection if it's not completely plugged in. Maybe a wire got cut or damaged near the hot exhaust system.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The P1443 code points to the evaporative emissions purge control valve solenoid or sensor. The solenoid or the connection might be bad or it could have broken vacuum tubing. Take a look at this link for more information: P1443 code - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

[CaseyJ955]

Did you check the electrical plug on the transfer case, the bulkhead connector in the wiring bundle, and the actuator on the transfer case with a multimeter? Sometimes it could be something simple like corrosion, a bent pin or a loose connection if it's not completely plugged in. Maybe a wire got cut or damaged near the hot exhaust system.

I'll start with the things you just listed, now I have an idea where the junctions are. I sort of imagined myself with a schematic in one hand and a multimeter in the other. I suppose it's high time to find a manual for this vehicle and see if there is a schematic for the system. I believe there must be a million fusable links in there too.

I'll start with a physical inspection and look at the junctions. I'll see if I can find a schematic so I know what to look for with the multimeter. Are the control modules a common fail item for the TC?

Thanks for the responses and the jumping off point. I'll sort through that as soon as weather permits.

 

[Mbrooks420]

If there are different sized tires it likely would have seen that as wheel slippage, a tried to correct this by activating the front drive. It’s posdible the clutch is burnt up, and it thinks it’s driving the front , and just isn’t.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Maybe the previous owner had issues with the transfer case because each wheel was a different size so they unplugged the control module for the transfer case? Check to see if the module is plugged in.

 

[CaseyJ955]

If there are different sized tires it likely would have seen that as wheel slippage, a tried to correct this by activating the front drive. It’s posdible the clutch is burnt up, and it thinks it’s driving the front , and just isn’t.

That is possible, it's the first thing I suspected as it makes the most sense. Is there supposed to be an indicator light if the system is kicked in? I dont see one with key on/engine off. It really doesnt feel like it's trying to do even a little bit of anything. I think the first thing I could do is find out where check to see if the system is receiving the cue to kick in when there is slippage. I have a 2 mile sheet of ice right outside. I have to go to town today, I'll see if I can find a manual for this pig.

Maybe the previous owner had issues with the transfer case because each wheel was a different size so they unplugged the control module for the transfer case? Check to see if the module is plugged in.

The first owner was South Dakota, second owner was the door company. My late nephew had it for a few days only, that's where the weird tires came from. I know he drove it exactly as I would have at his age, so it got flogged. Nobody in there would known anything about how to find and DC the module. I know the AWD was working when came from state. I suppose the next step after physical inspection is to determine whether or not the TC is getting the GO signal or not.

 

[Mbrooks420]

On the 4 auto versions of the Explorer there is no indication of when it’s active.

 

[Josh P]

The tc28 transfer case in the awd aerostar is fulltime to the front and rear axles. On dry pavement 1/3 the power goes up front and 2/3 to the rear, when the system detects loss of traction, it will lock the clutch for 50/50 split power.

 

[CaseyJ955]

On the 4 auto versions of the Explorer there is no indication of when it’s active.

I believe this is the same, thank you for the clarification.I guess if it is a full time as the following says then it would make sense not to have a light.

The tc28 transfer case in the awd aerostar is fulltime to the front and rear axles. On dry pavement 1/3 the power goes up front and 2/3 to the rear, when the system detects loss of traction, it will lock the clutch for 50/50 split power.

If that is the case it is likely tattered, also if it is an actual full time 4WD I think I would prefer to ditch the TC and front bits and just make it all manual. I only need the 4wd part maybe 10% of the time. Seems like it could be a colossal waste of fuel. I was under the impression it was an on/off system triggered by wheel slippage. It sounds like unless this is a very simple fix all that automatic electronic crap is coming out. I'm anxious to see if I can find out what really happened to her.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Your fuel savings wouldn’t be as much as you think. Since the front axle is live it spins the front CVs, differential, and driveshaft even if you were in manual 2wd.

 

[CaseyJ955]

Your fuel savings wouldn’t be as much as you think. Since the front axle is live it spins the front CVs, differential, and driveshaft even if you were in manual 2wd.

I would definitely feel compelled to switch to manual hubs with the manual TC. I have to leave the trans automatic so wife can drive it, besides the trans conversion sounds like a big investment of time. It looks much more reasonable to swap out the front axle and TC from an Explorer if repairing this TC gets to expensive.

I think the deciding factor her is going to be this: IF the TC needs to come out, a manual version will go back in. If I can fix it without going into the TC then I'll probably just fix it and put it into service. MPG is not a huge factor for this vehicle but it is still a line item on the budget that cant be ignored, but it wont be a deciding factor.

I see your a KTM guy too. 06 250 XCW plated 2stroke here.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Is your front axle not a D35? I was thinking all you’d need for the swap would be a Bw1354 transfer case, and likely a different front shaft?

There are early second gen front axles (don’t recall which years) that have a vacuum disconnect on the front axle.

There’s nothing like a KTM as far as I’m concerned. I’d like to get another two stroke and ride it Supermoto.

 

[CaseyJ955]

Is your front axle not a D35? I was thinking all you’d need for the swap would be a Bw1354 transfer case, and likely a different front shaft?

I read that the 1354 was a direct bolt up, but I know the wiring must be dealt with so the TCI will no longer "see" the E system. I'm trying to ascertain whether or not the right doner vehicle would have all the necessary bits. I'm not sure what the front axle is, but there are no lockouts and no room for them so I assume the whole thing needs to go. I'll decipher the vin and see exactly what this vehicle is equipped with. I think it is highly unlikely that it was ever modified as it has always been a state or our own fleet vehicle.

There are early second gen front axles (don’t recall which years) that have a vacuum disconnect on the front axle.
in lieu of traditional lock out hubs? I'm also paying attention to gear ratios in case I cant swap in the existing pumpkin or find a doner with the right ratios.

There’s nothing like a KTM as far as I’m concerned. I’d like to get another two stroke and ride it Supermoto.

I'm fortunate to live in the Black Hills. In SD it was a very simple affair to get plates and insurance to ride my nasty obnoxious 2 stroke on the street, although I just connect trails with it. I live in the woods and the single track and ATV trail heads are minutes from my front door. This bike is INSANE! It will blow my Vmax away to about 60mph. KTM won me as a customer with this machine, it's just nuts how darn good it is. ding ding ding ding AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH ding ding ding.

I think these smokers would be great for Supermoto, I know a lot of guys use them in scrambles. I'm more of a causal see how far from civilization I can get and pitch a tent sort of guy. I'm old enough to not want to break myself in half haha.

 

[CaseyJ955]

Oh, thank you so much all for dignifying my questions, it is quite helpful.

 

[Josh P]

Is your front axle not a D35? I was thinking all you’d need for the swap would be a Bw1354 transfer case, and likely a different front shaft?

There are early second gen front axles (don’t recall which years) that have a vacuum disconnect on the front axle.

There’s nothing like a KTM as far as I’m concerned. I’d like to get another two stroke and ride it Supermoto.

The front axle is the D35 hybrid, which is the smaller D28 ring gear and inner shafts. The axle looks just like the D30 used in the 02-10 explorer. The bw1354 would be a good swap, both driveshafts would need work though.

 

[CaseyJ955]

Any idea on which years would have the right TC and front axle. I think because of width I've read the Explorer is the best fit. Would be nice to find one doner vehicle that has the TC and front axle/diff/hugs. It's still snowing pretty good so it's still going to be a while before I can get out there and see if we have a simple fix or if it's worse than that. Maybe I'll drain the fluid and see if it's full of clutch.

 

[Josh P]

Any idea on which years would have the right TC and front axle. I think because of width I've read the Explorer is the best fit. Would be nice to find one doner vehicle that has the TC and front axle/diff/hugs. It's still snowing pretty good so it's still going to be a while before I can get out there and see if we have a simple fix or if it's worse than that. Maybe I'll drain the fluid and see if it's full of clutch.

Early 90s ranger would have the bw1354. There is no easy axle swap, anything else would be custom fabrication. The outer axle shafts go into sealed bearing hubs, so I don't know how you could convert that to manual hubs. The awd van is an orphan ******* when it comes to interchanging parts.

 

[CDW6212R]

Early 90s ranger would have the bw1354. There is no easy axle swap, anything else would be custom fabrication. The outer axle shafts go into sealed bearing hubs, so I don't know how you could convert that to manual hubs. The awd van is an orphan ******* when it comes to interchanging parts.

Is the Aerostar similar enough up front to use the 2nd gen Explorer parts? The later Rangers have hubs that swap to the Explorers, and aftermarket hubs are also good choices to make them manual.

Keeping IDENTICAL tires is the most important factor for any AWD or A4WD, which is what the Explorers all have. The total diameter of the front tires must match the total diameter of the rear tires. You could use two pairs of vastly different tires(two brand new pairs), located in pairs left to right, and the TC would not care or be hurt at all. Any mismatched(front to rear) tires will eat the transfer cases, and the front diff, ask me how I know that one.

 

[Josh P]

Is the Aerostar similar enough up front to use the 2nd gen Explorer parts? The later Rangers have hubs that swap to the Explorers, and aftermarket hubs are also good choices to make them manual.

Keeping IDENTICAL tires is the most important factor for any AWD or A4WD, which is what the Explorers all have. The total diameter of the front tires must match the total diameter of the rear tires. You could use two pairs of vastly different tires(two brand new pairs), located in pairs left to right, and the TC would not care or be hurt at all. Any mismatched(front to rear) tires will eat the transfer cases, and the front diff, ask me how I know that one.

The hubs on the aerostar are 26 spline and the 2nd gen explorer are 27 spline. If the explorer hubs would physically fit the awd aerostar then custom outer cv axle shafts would be an easy solution.