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Engine swap 98 sohc

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by rydrew55, July 23, 2010.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    Engine swap 98 sohc with 05 Mustang motor

    Thanks again. (from original thread)http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286471

    Parts for the rebuild were expensive ($235 just for the crank) and I would still have a motor with 160k miles.
    I have decided to try and find a newer motor 2002+ with less miles and swap out the components (fuel rails, sensors etc). Everything I found for a 97-01had 130k or more miles. So I figure it's better to find something newer with less miles, better timing stuff, and swap out the components to work in my 98.
    I will start a fresh thread for the swap and include a reference back to this one for anyone who wants to see how I got to this point.

    First question.
    Which computer / wire harness would I use? The original from the 98, or a new one from the 2002+?

    Thanks again for all the help.
    rydrew55
     
    Last edited: July 29, 2010
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  3. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Just use long block

    The simplest and least expensive approach is to make the 2002+ engine appear to be a 1998 engine. That will avoid any complicated electrical compatibility issues. I believe PATS was implemented in 1998. You definitely want to avoid PATS issues.
     
    Last edited: July 23, 2010
  4. ranger7ltr

    ranger7ltr Elite Explorer

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  5. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    PATS and PCM for engine swap

    I get the mechanical part. But I am still foggy on the PCM and PATS. From what I can see (mostly on this forum) the PATS system that I have was used from 98-02 (02 is technically next gen explorer, go figure) and a new PATS sytem introduced in 03+.
    Then there is the problem of fuel pressure difference between retun vs. returnless fuel rails which appear to have been introduced mid year 1998 (I think based on what I read).

    It's kind of multi dimensional. There seems to be many possible combinations with different implications electrically.

    1. 98 truck with returnless fuel rail / 2003+ motor new style PATS.

    1a. 98 truck with return type fuel rail / 2003+ motor new style PATS.

    2. 98 truck with returnless fuel rails / 2002 motor old style PATS.

    2a. 98 truck with return type fuel rails / 2002 motor old style PATS.

    3. 98 truck with returnless type fuel rails / 2001 motor old style PATS.

    3a. 98 truck with return type fuel rails / 2001 motor old style PATS.

    Maybe I am just making this overly complicated. If I am, just give me a slap and tell me not to wory. Just want to make sure I purchase and/or use the correct PCM and wire harness if I find a good 01, 02 or 03+ motor.

    Sorry for the ramble.
    Thanks
    rydrew55
     
  6. ranger7ltr

    ranger7ltr Elite Explorer

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    No ramble...Just looking at the options..

    I understand your questions... From what I got from the threads, all the folks that have used a newer Mustang engine in the Explorer simply transferred the wiring harness, intake, exhaust and fuel setup from the Explorer to the Mustang longblocks...You would continue to use the current PCM with its PATS system, fuel injector mapping, o2 and control sensors being the same as the old engine...And this would also be the case if you found an Explorer engine to use as well...

    There would be no issues with fuel rails, PATS, or fitment as the engine bay will see the new engine as it sees the old engine...

    You would not need or want to change the PCM in any case and using the Explorer intake and exhaust as before changes nothing in relation to the o2 sensor, fuel rail,pressure, or injector pulse width.. The PCM would see the engine to be controlled as before with the same hardware and requirements being as they were before...

    This would be like pulling the current engine and replacing it with a new or rebuilt long block...Nothing control-wise will change...Just use the current wiring, intake, exhaust and you are all set...

    Hope I answered your concerns with this needed engine change...
     
  7. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    Awesome post. That should do it for now.
    Next, find a motor and get mine prepared for removal.
     
  8. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    Mustang or Explorer motor swap for 98 ex

    Looks like anything 2003+, Explorer or 2005+ Mustang will be OK. Only unanswered question is does the mustang have a balance shaft and does it matter. Looks like several have done it and it really doesn't matter. Also, not conclusive, but there is a listing for a balance shaft on the fordparts.com site on the mustang with automatic.

    6A311
    Engine Balance Shaft
    4.0L V6 12V Single Over Head Cam EFI Automatic Transmission $273.15 Select a dealer for their prices and availability.
    and for the manual
    6A311B
    Engine Balance Shaft
    4.0L V6 12V Single Over Head Cam EFI Manual Transmission $452.82 Select a dealer for their prices and availability

    I think I will just look for the best 03+ ex or 05+ pony deal and go to town.

    Looks like front accesories, intake and bolt ons, valve covers, fuel setup, sensors, exhaust manifold, harness, flexplate, breather, water pump(?) fan (?) need to come from the 98 if I use the mustang..

    Only question...up to 06 seems OK, but no info 07-10. Will those work too?

    Thanks for the input.
    rydrew55
     
    Last edited: July 24, 2010
  9. cjmedina

    cjmedina Active Member

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  10. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    OK...I'm all in.
    Welcome anyone who wants to follow my experiences.
    I bought a 2005 Mustang 4.0L sohc motor today. It gets delivered on Saturday.
    1st thing to do, clear out the garage and set up a hoist to lift the motor of the pickup truck.
    Any advice on the best place to bolt the chains to?

    Rydrew55
     
    Last edited: July 29, 2010
  11. ranger7ltr

    ranger7ltr Elite Explorer

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    Excellent!!!

    Pretty soon this forum will have a write-up for swapping the most common powerplants into the Explorer...

    I for one will be following you step by step...Hope it all goes well for you...And take lots of pics too...If you can or get a chance...Especially on the differences between the Mustang and Explorer units...

    I wish I had a suggestion on the chains...I have always tried to go cross-wise front to back on the heads if the engine was complete like yours is...

    And I would probably pull the exhaust manifolds and leave them in the engine bay and yank the accesory brackets and the intake manifold before yanking the engine since you are going to reuse them...
     
  12. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    Thanks. Good ideas. I'll try them.
    Regarding pictures, I can't figure out how to do it (better with a wrench than the internet I guess)
    Rydrew55
     
  13. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Mustang with exhaust manifolds?

    If the Mustang engine has the exhaust manifolds they would provide convenient rear lift points.
     
  14. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    They do have them, but the studs seem kind of wimpy (small)
     
  15. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    Mustang motor arrived today, I start tomorrow.
    If anyone wants to tell me how, I'll be glad to post some pics.
    So far:
    $650-98 xlt w leather, new tires and a busted crank.
    $170- uhaul rental to get in home.
    $520-05 Mustang motor 41k miles, delivered. Took a while to find a good deal. Junk yards wanted too much. Ended up finding 2 at that price. Took the cleaner one.
    $200-2 ton crane from harbor freight, not the folding one. The fixed one has much longer reach and more stable.
    $300-estimate of what else I will need.
    Rydrew55
     
  16. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    photos

    You have to be an elite member to post photos on the forum and then you are limited to four per post. The other option is to upload them to another hosting site and place a link to them in your post.

    You made a good choice on the crane. I only had room for a foldable one.

    An engine stand is nice if there's anything that requires a lot of force to tighten or loosen. However, you can probably get by without one since you won't be rebuilding the Mustang engine. My engine hung from the crane for several days without dropping a measurable amount.

    Less than $2,000 for a 98 with a low mileage engine sounds like a bargain to me.
     
  17. mr2fix2it

    mr2fix2it Active Member

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    hey you mention you have a broken crank i hope you see what broke the crank this is what happened to mine it has a bad belt tensioner that puts full belt tension on the belt then crank brakes off make sure you check this or just replace the tensioner its cheeper then another motor and you have to swap it anyway (it caused the damage already )
     
  18. cjmedina

    cjmedina Active Member

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    Posting Pictures

    Hi,

    I could help you posting the pictures.

    Who is your internet provider? Some give you space to upload. Then all you need is an FTP to store them, then post the link.

    But the best is for you to go elite this way there will always be a link to the pictures.

    Cliff
     
  19. 2000StreetRod

    2000StreetRod Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    balancer

    I'm not familiar with the Mustang balancer but the 3rd generation Explorer balancers seem to be more prone to the outer section separating from the inner section. However, it's not worth the effort and cost (must use new bolt) to swap them. I would use the one on the Mustang engine and just check it periodically.
     
  20. janolsson

    janolsson Well-Known Member

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    Hi Rydrew55
    I have just done an engine swap again (long story well documented in my threads)
    But this is how i lifted my engine
    Old one out
    [​IMG]
    Shiny one in
    [​IMG]

    Yes your eyes do not deceive, it is a length of seat belt. Very strong and a simple knot around the manifods works as the belt pulls on itself to grip and prevent the knot undoing. I lifted out and installed the complete engine with intakes and alternator. I did remove the steering pump and reservoir. Also undid the air con bracket and swung out of the way into the battery tray.
    HTH
    Regards from over the pond :uk:
     
  21. rydrew55

    rydrew55 Active Member

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    Got started today. About half done disconnecting stuff on the top side and removed the hood. Soon I'll go down below.

    First problem I'll face is how to rotate the flex plate to take off the TC bolts. The crank is broken, so the usual Hamonic balancer bolt is not an option.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks, Rydrew55
     

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