Explorer Audio upgrade(s) | Page 23 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Thanks for all the info Champco. The 4 speaker plus sub woofer system I traded in (still in my sig) sounded wayyyy better that this Sony 12 speaker system. I am used to better bass and treble response in the car. I just ordered Infinity Primus PR6500cs (single speaker plus tweeter and crossover) for the front doors and Infinity Reference REF-5022cfx 2-way speakers for the rear doors. I didn't give these parts too much thought besides the brand because Crutchfield says they fit and they supply mounting hardware. I do not plan to touch the Ford subwoofer because I suspect it will sound better if all that bass is not going through the front doors. Have you found a need to modify the center dash or 3rd row speakers to get a significant improvement in sound?
Ok so you are replacing speakers that came in a Sony System??? Please post pictures of the original speakers they are supplying with it. I suspect you will have more power to the speakers then the 9 speaker system. The Sony headend is different. Good luck with it all. Am looking forward for a report.
 



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Yeah, thats why I'm so stumped. The box I created is solid 3/4 MDF and is 0.36 cubic ft. Air tight, should be fine. The reviews for both the amp and the sub were great as well so I'm not entirely sure why I'm so underwhelmed
Typically sterio systems provided bass on the left channel for years. Do not know if that is still the case. I learned this when I had to replace the foams on only one speaker a couple times. The tech said to swap the speakers from time to time. This is over many years of daily use. After swapping the speakers the one that was always on the right... now on the left the foam blew apart right away. lesson learned
I would grab bass from the left side just in case..... Good luck.
 






Ok so you are replacing speakers that came in a Sony System??? Please post pictures of the original speakers they are supplying with it. I suspect you will have more power to the speakers then the 9 speaker system. The Sony headend is different. Good luck with it all. Am looking forward for a report.
I should be able to work on this tomorrow (Saturday). Based on the speakers in your photos, I assumed I was replacing 4 ohm speakers with the new Infinity 3 ohm speakers, but maybe not since you have the 9 speaker system. The Crutchfield guy says the lower ohms will produce a louder sound. I will probably just do the front doors tomorrow (weather permitting). I will take pics of the old ones tomorrow.
 






I should be able to work on this tomorrow (Saturday). Based on the speakers in your photos, I assumed I was replacing 4 ohm speakers with the new Infinity 3 ohm speakers, but maybe not since you have the 9 speaker system. The Crutchfield guy says the lower ohms will produce a louder sound. I will probably just do the front doors tomorrow (weather permitting). I will take pics of the old ones tomorrow.
Take a ohm meter to the OEM speakers and the replacement speakers thru them as installed.
The front door panals came off much easier then the rear. There is one metal clip and 6 plastic clips. being as the speaker is in the door and the tweeter in the panel putting it all back together takes some planning. The last connection for me was the network feed to the supply/source. You can see the wiring in a picture. While the door was pseudo connected to the door handle cable and other wiring connectors back in place I propped the panel on my stool and leaned in to make the final speaker connection. Then rehung the panel. It pushed back together real easy. Test it all before resealing all the clips. I would not worry too much about matching speaker impedance within a few ohms. Putting power to perfectly matched stuff still cooks things. The big problems happen to power amps that run away because the resistance (ohms) being low and someone gives it 100% for too long. How long that is depends on the power applied. It's work for you so after installing these you won't blow em.
 
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Take a ohm meter to the OEM speakers and the replacement speakers thru them as installed.
The front door panals came off much easier then the rear. There is one metal clip and 6 plastic clips. being as the speaker is in the door and the tweeter in the panel putting it all back together takes some planning. The last connection for me was the network feed to the supply/source. You can see the wiring in a picture. While the door was pseudo connected to the door handle cable and other wiring connectors back in place I propped the panel on my stool and leaned in to make the final speaker connection. Then rehung the panel. It pushed back together real easy. Test it all before resealing all the clips. I would not worry too much about matching speaker impedance within a few ohms. Putting power to perfectly matched stuff still cooks things. The big problems happen to power amps that run away because the resistance (ohms) being low and someone gives it 100% for too long. How long that is depends on the power applied. It's work for you so after installing these you won't blow em.
I pulled off a lot of door panels in the past but I never saw anything like this before. The plastic rivets at the corner of each front door simply will not pull loose. Every tool I use seems to just slip off. If I pull any harder I will probably have to buy a new panel. I am done for now. I'll try a hacksaw blade tomorrow.
 






I pulled off a lot of door panels in the past but I never saw anything like this before. The plastic rivets at the corner of each front door simply will not pull loose. Every tool I use seems to just slip off. If I pull any harder I will probably have to buy a new panel. I am done for now. I'll try a hacksaw blade tomorrow.
I did not want to say anything because i do not know you or your abilities/experience. BUT I did my back doors first because I could still use the vehicle with them shut.
No saws!!! I used a typical snap-on clip puller to POP the clips. It's tough but they will pop. Just get under them..
I started with the bottom and worked up both sides going back and forth. The steel clip is top front. All these clips are deep into the panel. Not on the edges.Assuming the 2016 was not changed much from my 2013. To protect the paint as I pried the clips I put a stainless steel flat blade against the paint beneath the pry tool. Getting the panel off not breaking anything is the goal.
 






If I pull any harder I will probably have to buy a new panel. I am done for now.
I don't think I just pulled any of mine apart by pulling on the panel. I attacked each clip. I prodded them with the thin blade and once found got the tool under them. Screwdriver is inadequate. Get the panel pullers from any auto parts store or maybe Norther Hydraulics. My tool is stout but way too short for this panel. I had to really push it to get under the clips. Some clips stayed in the door. I put them back in the panel to reinstall em. After removing them from their holes.
 






I don't think I just pulled any of mine apart by pulling on the panel. I attacked each clip. I prodded them with the thin blade and once found got the tool under them. Screwdriver is inadequate. Get the panel pullers from any auto parts store or maybe Norther Hydraulics. My tool is stout but way too short for this panel. I had to really push it to get under the clips. Some clips stayed in the door. I put them back in the panel to reinstall em. After removing them from their holes.
I didn't just pull, I used trim removal tools. I have the one metal one that I used for years but I got a new set of plastic (or whatever that material is) from Harbor Freight so I don't scratch anything. I guess I am being overly cautious since this car is still under warranty but I think I know what to do now. The plastic clips are sitting in a slot instead of a hole as they usually are so I should be able to get a tool under it and whack it then pull. At any rate I ordered a bunch of them in case I break a few.
 






I don't think I just pulled any of mine apart by pulling on the panel. I attacked each clip. I prodded them with the thin blade and once found got the tool under them. Screwdriver is inadequate. Get the panel pullers from any auto parts store or maybe Norther Hydraulics. My tool is stout but way too short for this panel. I had to really push it to get under the clips. Some clips stayed in the door. I put them back in the panel to reinstall em. After removing them from their holes.
Okay, I got the panel off on the passenger side. I had to use the metal tool and it mangled one of the clips and did leave some scratches and but they were behind the panel. When I removed the panel I saw 2 wires going to the tweeter and 2 to the woofer. They were both wrapped up pretty tight into the wiring harness that went inside the door. I could not find my DVM I just had a analog multi-meter which can only measure ohms in 1k increments.

So I figured I would back off until I find or buy a digital voltmeter, but I have a question: Did you just use the woofer input to feed the crossover and ignore the old tweeter wires?

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The first photo shows the tweeter. I pulled off an orange sticky that covered the part number and the label came off with the sticky. Just looking at the tweeter I am assuming it has a built in high-pass filter since that only requires a resistor and a capacitor. But the wires going into the tweeter are not the same colors as the wires going into the woofer.
 
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That being a Sony system I would expect different wiring. The 9 speaker system has 5 channels coming from it. 1 to center speaker, one to each door. There is someone here who posted wiring for the Sony system. Refer to it for the tweeter wires. The tweeter being filtered right there tells me signal must be full to it.
What do you have for a filter on the new speakers?? Notice on mine from the pictures is pretty robust. Lets find the wiring for your radio. See what you have and decide what to do with the new stuff.
Went digging. Post #236 has some diagrams that may be helpful. Not sure. Post #296 address the Sony system. Tweeter source still alludes. Are you certain the wires are different then the door speakers?? Ohm out the wires to tweeter. Then either disconnect or connect the door speakers and look for a change.
 
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Thanks for finding that diagram but I do not think it quite matches up. My right front tweeter has violet/orange-yellow/orange wires (even though it doesn't show very well in this picture). But the most interesting thing about the diagram is that all speakers appear to be originating directly from the audio module. My new speakers consist of a woofer, a tweeter and a crossover expecting a single 2 wire input. I did not think to photograph the woofer wires although they are blurry in the background. I will ask the Crutchfield guys in the morning if it is better to use the woofer wires or the tweeter wires for the crossover input.

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Thanks for finding that diagram but I do not think it quite matches up. My right front tweeter has violet/orange-yellow/orange wires (even though it doesn't show very well in this picture). But the most interesting thing about the diagram is that all speakers appear to be originating directly from the audio module. My new speakers consist of a woofer, a tweeter and a crossover expecting a single 2 wire input. I did not think to photograph the woofer wires although they are blurry in the background. I will ask the Crutchfield guys in the morning if it is better to use the woofer wires or the tweeter wires for the crossover input.

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Yes I agree, on all of it. The original tweeter having the crossover built in may say the signal to them is full. Would be nice to know the power there. I might be tempted to change the door speakers and call it good. That tweeter channel should remain loaded. Using your new one with crossover and new the door speaker would probably work good.
There is one guy on here who completely redid his Explorer Sony System. Would be worth a study.
 






Yes I agree, on all of it. The original tweeter having the crossover built in may say the signal to them is full. Would be nice to know the power there. I might be tempted to change the door speakers and call it good. That tweeter channel should remain loaded. Using your new one with crossover and new the door speaker would probably work good.
There is one guy on here who completely redid his Explorer Sony System. Would be worth a study.
I managed to get a wiring diagram for the 2016 Explorer Sony system, I included it here. I also called Crutchfield. They said connect the crossover to the woofer output so I guess that is how I will proceed.
 

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Wo
I managed to get a wiring diagram for the 2016 Explorer Sony system, I included it here. I also called Crutchfield. They said connect the crossover to the woofer output so I guess that is how I will proceed.
Wow. You just posted Radio wiring for all the Explorer,s Yours is starting on page 6 unless you have the Platinum version.
The OEM tweeter does have it's own amp channel which should keep a load on it. If it were me I would just stow that oEM tweeter inside the door panel unless you can come up with some creative way to make it more useful. Good job.
 






There is one guy on here who completely redid his Explorer Sony System. Would be worth a study.

I redid my entire system (except the head unit) in my 2016 Sport.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/2016-sport-audio-up-grade-plus-some.444695/

I did not use the factory speaker wires. When hooking up the Bit One processer, I got all the radio out-puts (processer in-put) right after the factory amp and ran new wires to the new speakers. I did not use any cross-overs since the Bit One handles that.
 






Wo

Wow. You just posted Radio wiring for all the Explorer,s Yours is starting on page 6 unless you have the Platinum version.
The OEM tweeter does have it's own amp channel which should keep a load on it. If it were me I would just stow that oEM tweeter inside the door panel unless you can come up with some creative way to make it more useful. Good job.
...and I just ran into another really stupid roadblock. I took the speakers out of their boxes only to discover there are absolutely NO wires included! I called Crutchfield and they said that is how they come but I have never seen that before. Now I have to sit here with the wire and connectors I just purchased to make wires for the tweeters to connect to the crossover, the woofers to connect to the crossover, the crossover to connect to the harness, and for the rear speaker wires to connect to whatever is back there.
 









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I redid my entire system (except the head unit) in my 2016 Sport.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/2016-sport-audio-up-grade-plus-some.444695/

I did not use the factory speaker wires. When hooking up the Bit One processer, I got all the radio out-puts (processer in-put) right after the factory amp and ran new wires to the new speakers. I did not use any cross-overs since the Bit One handles that.
How is all that working out for you. Is there anything you would do different??
 






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