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Explorer Brake Upgrades

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorer Sport Tuning' started by Loganfilm, March 16, 2011.

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    1. vteckiller2000

      vteckiller2000 Active Member

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      Yes, this is for factory Sport brakes. The police brakes are the same as the Sport.
       
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    3. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      I hear ya. They just don't make vehicles like they used to. I heard a bit of wind noise going into wind at 200 mph the other day.:eek:

      Peter
       
    4. Penumbra

      Penumbra New Member

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      The Ex Sport has the same brakes as the Interceptor:

      "To handle the stopping demands of a performance SUV, the Sport model's brake rotors are the same as Ford's Police Interceptor Utility, which is based on the Explorer platform. The Sport and police vehicle's front brake rotors are 13.9 in (353 mm) in diameter vs. the current Explorer's 12.8 in (325 mm). Compared to the 2012 Explorer's 12.9-in (328-mm) rear brake rotor, the Sport and police vehicle's rear rotor is 13.6 in (345 mm)."
       
    5. Don123

      Don123 New Member

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      I checked out the link to the Sport brakes and all the part numbers are DG1Z but everything I see listed for the sport is BRRF?? Not sure if these are the same or not.
      Don
       
    6. peterk9

      peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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      Welcome to the Forum Don123.:wavey:
      On the Fordparts.com website all numbers follow the 'BRF' scenario. That shows in different forms depending upon whether you are looking at the 'Standard' or 'Heavy Duty' parts. Like you said, there is nothing like a 'DG' number.

      Peter
       
    7. Levittown Ford Parts

      Levittown Ford Parts EF Vendor

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      The BR numbers are motorcraft equivalent numbers but are the exact same as OE

      for instance take part number BRRF-112 and type it into our repair parts section here http://www.levittownfordsupercenter.com/repair-parts.php it automatically changes it to DG1Z1125C


      -Benny
       
      Last edited: December 6, 2013
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    8. bradleyls103

      bradleyls103 New Member

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      As far a replacement fluid goes the manual in my 2011 says Dot 3 (PM-1-c, WSS-M6C62-a) but the 2014 manual says Dot 4 LV (PM-20, WSS-M6C65-A2) With the new Sport brake upgrade what fluid should I use? I know Dot 4 has higher boiling point but can absorb moisture faster. Why did Ford switch to DOT 4? Should I?
       
    9. plumbago

      plumbago Active Member

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      The big problem swapping out larger rotors and calipers etc. is that the ABS systems will not be calibrated correctly for these changes....They sound good but you may find they not only don't work quite right, but when needed under certain conditions they may actually place you in DANGER......sometimes bigger is not better unless done correctly....best regards Plum
       
    10. Kpwweb

      Kpwweb Active Member

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      I don't buy that... The abs senses when the brakes lock up... Doesn't make any difference what rotor size is.. Lock up is lock up. Turning is turning.

      Besides, while larger rotors give SOME more torque, the biggest thing is more mass = more fade resistance...

      Many superstitious people have perported this. It simply hasn't born fruit in the aftermarket...
       
    11. bradleyls103

      bradleyls103 New Member

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      I agree The abs senses when the brakes lock up... Doesn't make any difference what rotor size is.. Lock up is lock up. Turning is turning. Looking for info on fluid
       
    12. plumbago

      plumbago Active Member

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      Ok, suit yourself, but why don't you try reporting your brake upgrades to your insurance company and see how they feel about it.....best regards Plum
       
    13. rbreding

      rbreding New Member

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      Since when does anyone report any upgrades they have made on their vehicle to the insurance company unless it adds substantial value to the vehicle (usually a restored or show vehicle in that case)......come on.
       
    14. Levittown Ford Parts

      Levittown Ford Parts EF Vendor

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      I think if we were dealing with very early on ABS systems (90's) wheel size, rotor size and maybe even suspension changes may have effected it's performance but the latest systems work with such high resolution and communication between the ECU and the wheels speed sensors it's constantly adapting to perform one simple function and that is not to lock up the wheel.

      -Benny
       
    15. bradleyls103

      bradleyls103 New Member

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      Too Funny... My wife is buying them for me and she works at State Farm. Need I say more.... Insurance companies don't care. Just like if you want to upgrade rims or suspension or performance engine parts...

      Lets get back on track. Suggestions on brake fluid. 2011 has dot 3 and 2014 has dot 4. Suggestions what I should go with. How much do I need on hand for the job?
       
    16. Kpwweb

      Kpwweb Active Member

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      Those two are interchangeable, as well as DOT 5.1... Higher boiling point and less water absorption the better. I've used Castrol LMA before with good luck... And its available in two colors to make bleeding easier...

      When I changed my non-ABS cars to DOT 5, I always made sure I had 2qts on hand. I think I only used about 1 qt per car, but you WILL spill a bunch, curse several times, take a bath in DOT 3, etc...

      A MityVac is a huge help! Further you WILL need a flare-nut wrench, even for the bleeders...

      Best bet is not to suck the master cylinder dry, but keep the master cylinder filled while using a MityVac to "draw through" the new fluid... If the master cylinder gets empty, you might have to bench bleed it which us a real pain. Once the fluid changes color (to the new) clearly, have an assistant press the peddle and bleed a few times with peddle pressure (2-3) that way...

      Worked best for me to get an air-free solid peddle...

      Don't know if you will need the Ford tool to cycle the ABS solenoids to perform bleeding?

      Have fun!
       
    17. bradleyls103

      bradleyls103 New Member

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      I have finished the install of the 2013 Explorer Sport brakes on my 2011 XLT.

      http://s45.photobucket.com/user/bradleyls103/slideshow/Explorer/Brake%20Upgrade

      The front rotors were a simple bolt on and I didn't need to use the 2 new brass washers included in the kit as the original ones were almost stuck on the threads of the brake line bolts so we left them and had no leaks. The rotors we an inch larger diameter and had the extra cooling vent circles at the inside of the rotor. The calipers were the biggest difference in my opinion. The 2 pistons were noticeably larger then my original ones, but the seals around them were rubber not silicone (the rears had an orange silicone seal, not sure if I got the police rears and sport fronts as I think I remember reading the police used silicone and the sport used rubber seals, that car was torn apart so I couldn't research it). The new shields were a must in the fronts and were larger then the original ones. You need to reuse the shield bolts and the caliper bracket bolts. The caliper brackets come with new caliper bolts and nice instructions from Ford. The left and right are universal so you need to remove both caliper bolts and make sure the one with the rubber tip is on the top on each side. The calipers came with grease and the compound to glue the shims on the pads with pictures how to apply everything. Very impressed with the ford instructions on the fronts.

      The rears were going be super fast considering we were at the halfway point and figured it was going to be easy. The problem came with the stupid rear shields. I removed the bolts and guess what they wont fit over the wheel hubs and you must remove the hub to get them off. I tried for 20 minutes rotating and trying to fit it over the hub. I cut mine and then bent it to get it off. Here is where I can offer a real time saver. Don't remove the rear shields! In fact Please remove the rear shields from the kit. Once I got the one side off I straightened it back up I compared them to the new ones and discovered that they are the exact same size and only have minimal differences in some of the dips in the metal but are basically the same. At this point I ended up having to do both rear ones but I was not going to the remove the hubs or should I say couldn't and didn't want to destroy them trying. Not sure if the are pressed on or what but I could not get them off. I had to cut the new shields and then bend them a little to get over the hubs. After they were in place I tacked the cuts back together with the mig welder, grind the welds down and then spray painted the spots.

      Back on track... The rear rotors were also about and inch larger as well but the impressive part was that the original ones were a solid rotor and the new ones are vented and must be a lot better to keep them cool verse a solid rotor. The rear calipers looked to be the same size, the piston may be a little larger but to me looked about the same but had the orange silicone seals. Not sure if they had to be changed. No instructions were included with the rears and the pads were different from the inside to outside. So with doing my best to check out a sport on the dealer lot it appears that the pad with the tapered pad material edge goes on the inside of the rotor. On the rears you reuse the same hardware including the caliper bolts.

      Did the basic old school bleeding with four rubber hoses and a lot of brake pumping to bleed them. I ended up using one 32 oz bottle of fluid.

      The brakes are very impressive compared to my old ones. I didn't think they were going to feel that good but they seem to stop great. I broke them in by allowing them warm up and then I did around four 60-5 mph hard stops and then drove to cool them down before stopping again. I know people do different "bed-in" processes from just driving easy for 200 miles to more aggressive braking then what I did. To be honest I think this was enough to get the coating off the rotors but I still might try a few more hard stops. They had no fade or even a hot brake smell almost like I need to do more then I already had done. They feel powerful. Once I get some miles on them I will update
       
    18. Levittown Ford Parts

      Levittown Ford Parts EF Vendor

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      Excellent info Brad and thank you for the pics as well. Looking at them I see how the rear shields are practically the same so we will be removing them from the kit. I am most of all happy that the performance of the kit exceeded your expectations!

      -Benny
       
    19. Kpwweb

      Kpwweb Active Member

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    20. midnightsun

      midnightsun Member

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      So we don't need 18" Rims to make them fit? 17" is ok?
       
      Last edited: January 14, 2014
    21. Levittown Ford Parts

      Levittown Ford Parts EF Vendor

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    22. midnightsun

      midnightsun Member

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      I fingered a Cop car today.... Not much room at all. The caliper + rotor take up most all the free space in the 18" rim. If anyone has them with 17" wheels please let us know. :(
       
    23. midnightsun

      midnightsun Member

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      Got my truck back and looking at my 17" winter wheels the cop car brakes will never fit. I only have a finger tip that can fit between the caliper and the rim. Seems 18" or larger are needed....at least on mine.
       
    24. Levittown Ford Parts

      Levittown Ford Parts EF Vendor

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      Thanks for checking!

      We will add a note

      -Benny
       
    25. Levittown Ford Parts

      Levittown Ford Parts EF Vendor

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      Attached Files:

    26. baddceo

      baddceo Member

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      Benny,

      You indicate this is only for 13/14 explorers, however it looks like bradleyls103 successfully installed these on an 11XLT. Is it safe to assume this package would apply to my 2011 limited as well?

      Thanks
       

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