Explorer Neutral Tow Kit

I would like to flat tow my 2010 V8 4x4 Explorer behind a motorhome. Ford tells me that the Neutral Tow Kit (part# 6L2Z-7H332-A) has been discontinued. Is there another after market part available or any workarounds for this issue.

 

[MountaineerGreen]

Have you tired calling around to dealerships looking for a kit in parts inventory?

 

[thebrakeman]

In normal driving mode, is your Explorer in RWD, or 4WD-Auto?
If it's 4WD-Auto, I don't think you can do this, as it's essentially the same as AWD in the Mountaineers.
Any of the kits I see show it's not available for AWD.

If you have the ability to shift the transfer case to a low range, I can't imagine that there isn't already a means for stoping in-between ranges. Maybe not a dash button for neutral, but maybe in the setup menu?

I read a post somewhere that said the "kit" was nothing more than a dash light you mount which confirms you are in neutral.

 

[Gregory.Flatt]

I know the answer

After 4 hours at the dealer with the wrong part, I know the answer.

There are 2 different neutral tow kits for Explorers. One is for the V6 and one for the V8. The other requirement, of course, is 4WD (not AWD).

The V6 kit is nothing more than an indicator light and a quick reprogramming of the computer. The V8 kit has the same light and programming, it also has a switch that has to be installed on the shifter. The switch simply shorts out the light so it will activate so you know the transfer case is in neutral. The reason for the difference is the transmission, not the transfer case or engine.

The switch is the part that has been discontinued. I was assured by the tech on the Ford hotline that Ford is actively looking for a replacement. The switch simply shorts out the light so it will activate.

That being said, the V6 kit exists and is available. The V8 kit is not. My hope is that it will be before the end of the year.

 

[thebrakeman]

So, what is the process for putting the transfer case in neutral? My truck is AWD, but I'm just curious. From reading this, it sounds like you don't need this kit to put the transfer case in neutral, and that the kit(s) only provide an indicator light. But can you do this without the indicator light?

Maybe the reprogram gives you a neutral setting?

How do you put these transfer cases into neutral?

 

[Gregory.Flatt]

There is an option in the computer programming that allows the transfer case motor to stop in the neutral position and turn on the light. Without the light and the dealer installed kit, I would not tow my truck. You might think the transfer case is in neutral but it isn't.

If you Explorer is AWD and not 4WD, the kit won't work. If you have buttons on the dash for 4WD-Low and 4WD-High it will.

At this time the V8 kit is still not available.

 

[jckby7]

The instructions I have for putting my V6 2010 FORD Explorer in nuetral say, to turn the ignition to off only, not start. Thats one clickk back if the car is running. Then you proceed to getting the transfer case ready for towing.
My question is... once the car is ready for towing and in neutral with the indicator light on for a short while, and the ignition one click back from start, I cannot take the keys out nor lock the car while towing down the road. I am reluctant to go any farther for fear of damaging anything. Is this the proper way for towing? If it is, then all I can say is, "I DON'T LIKE IT"

 

[gijoecam]

The instructions I have for putting my V6 2010 FORD Explorer in nuetral say, to turn the ignition to off only, not start. Thats one clickk back if the car is running. Then you proceed to getting the transfer case ready for towing.
My question is... once the car is ready for towing and in neutral with the indicator light on for a short while, and the ignition one click back from start, I cannot take the keys out nor lock the car while towing down the road. I am reluctant to go any farther for fear of damaging anything. Is this the proper way for towing? If it is, then all I can say is, "I DON'T LIKE IT"

Have a spare key cut at any Lowes or hardware store. It does not need a chip in the key because you are not going to program that key to start the vehicle. Use that key only as your towing key. Then, use the keyless entry on the door or the remote entry key fob to lock/unlock the doors.

Any questions?

 

[jckby7]

Thank you

That sounds like a good way to do it and I think I'll try it. Another problem has popped up. When I hook up the car, and tow down the road, my battery runs down to NOTHING. I am going to take it in to the dealership as its still under warranty, but go figure. What the heck is making it do that. My guess is the position the ignition is in, but I'm not sure. It was wired by a FORD MECHANIC, and I'm assuming it was done right. I'm on the road and in Texas now, but this will have to be addressed. Any SUGGESTIONS?

 

[gijoecam]

That sounds like a good way to do it and I think I'll try it. Another problem has popped up. When I hook up the car, and tow down the road, my battery runs down to NOTHING. I am going to take it in to the dealership as its still under warranty, but go figure. What the heck is making it do that. My guess is the position the ignition is in, but I'm not sure. It was wired by a FORD MECHANIC, and I'm assuming it was done right. I'm on the road and in Texas now, but this will have to be addressed. Any SUGGESTIONS?

Are you turning the ignition on, or only turning the switch to the 'unlock' position? In the unlock position on yours, the stereo might come on (turn it off) but nothing else should be running. If the HVAC controls can be turned on, the switch is one position too far forward. That could certainly cause it...

Once the t-case is in neutral, there's no need to leave the ignition switched on. Turning it back to the 'unlock' position should shut everything off (with the exception of your stereo, possibly). The battery should last just fine at that point, as nothing has power to it. I would expect it to last at least several days like that, if not several weeks.

Are you using a brake assist device on the Ex? Is it powering the brake lights when it's used? That could be another draw...

Good luck, and keep us posted...

 

[jckby7]

Back AGAIN...

It seems as though you are correct as that is what the FORD GARAGE in Texas here has come with also. I haven't had the oppertunity to try this out yet as we won't be leaving here until the sixth of April for the West Coast. One thing I am going to do is, run a HOT wire from my Motorcoach alternator with an inline 20 amp fuse directly to the car battery. It will have a quick disconnect also. Should the battery show anysigns of running down, I will connect the hot wire to the car battery to charge it up during travel.
I'm quite confident that your solution is absoultely right but I'm not taking any chances at this point.
Thank you very much for the input and help. I will keep you posted sometime after the sixth of April.

 

[snoranger]

Make sure to use a quality connector like an Anderson SB50 for your disconnect. It will handle up to 50 amps. They are used on forklift batteries, only bigger (SB175, SB350).

 

[jckby7]

Mr. "snorranger", you've got me a little confused sir. I was going to use 12 gage THHN wire with an inline 20 amp fuse directly to the positive side of the battery terminal. I would use a ring tongue terminal for a stationary connection with a quick disconnect male in between along with my inline fuse. I hope I'm not missing anything on the hookup. I won't be jumpering the battery, just putting in a charge, like a small charger is used.

 

[gijoecam]

You still need to include a ground path for the power you're going to feed to the Explorer's battery, hence the need for a pair of wires. I would not rely on the 'trailer' lights ground wire alone to support an additional 20 or 30 amp feed for the charging battery.

I would use at least 10 gauge wire for your run because, presumably, you're pulling this behind a relatively large RV. (If it's a pusher, you can probably get away with 12 gauge because of the short run to the bumper... Maybe 3 feet?) Your RV may already be equipped with the isolation circuits you need to tap into to isolate the tow vehicle's batteries from the Explorer's to prevent the Explorer from draining the camper's battery when stopped. I suspect you have a second set of 'house' batteries for running the lights and such inside the camper when not connected to 120V, correct? If the RV's engine charges the house batteries in-transit, that's what I would want to piggyback the charge line for the Explorer onto.

Now, if you have a pusher and are running a genset for all 120VAC power while parked, there may be a bigger challenge. It all depends on how you're wired and what the power is coming from.

So with that in mind, maybe we should take a step back and look at the bigger picture: What are you pulling the Explorer with, and what are your 12V power supply options for feeding it?

On a related note, I also run an SB50 Andersen powerPole connection on my camper to feed the charge circuit from my tow vehicle (an F150). The truck feeds the camper through the Bargman connector, and it's only rated for 20A. However, the camper itself is wired for as much as a 30A feed between the battery and the 12V converter. I could potentially draw as much as 25A from the battery when using the power lift and bunk slides, and the charging circuit is rated for a 30A output, so the standard 20A connectors were not sufficient and, with a couple years of wet weather use, were severely deteriorated, and melting from the heat caused by the bad connection. Andersen connections are a little more challenging to install and assemble, but when done properly, they are bulletproof.

If you're ever camping over here on the 'east' coast of Michigan, I live between Toledo and Detroit, near Monroe. Swing on by with the parts and I'd be happy to help with the install. There's a nice RV park right down the road, and several campground just around the corner.

 

[snoranger]

Mr. "snorranger", you've got me a little confused sir. I was going to use 12 gage THHN wire with an inline 20 amp fuse directly to the positive side of the battery terminal. I would use a ring tongue terminal for a stationary connection with a quick disconnect male in between along with my inline fuse. I hope I'm not missing anything on the hookup. I won't be jumpering the battery, just putting in a charge, like a small charger is used.

I was suggesting to use the Anderson connector to attach the RV to the Towed vehicle. They last forever, they are designed to be connected and disconnected on a regular basis and not wear out or get "loose". A loose connection will cause it overheat and melt. You can get dust caps for them to keep them clean and safe from shorts when not in use. They have holes to mount them, either on the RV or towed truck.

It would make for a nicer install then a simple quick connector.

 

[A Wise Guy]

You can also get jumper cables that use those plugs. Very convienent. Now on a side note could you use the power terminal and ground out of your 7 pin connector? Is that not designed to charge the battery in a towed trailer?

 

[snoranger]

Its not designed to CHARGE a battery. A dead or low battery can easily draw more than 20 amps. Its designed to maintain a charge.

 

[jckby7]

WOW, lots of very good input on this board, and I greatly appreciate it too. As I said earlier, I'm in Texas now and will be heading for California, up the coast to Calgary, Alberta then East in Canada and on home to Michigan. I TRULY think I didn't turn the ignition switch back far enough to OFF, (position 1) I was leaving it in position 2, hense the battery run down.
Should this NOT solve this problem, I will move on to one of the suggestions.
I am towing the new Explorer with a rear engine forty foot pusher. I have towed a GMC ENVOY for thousands of miles in the past with the same hookup and never had any problems. With this new car, I find that I'm getting a run down battery. I have towed the new car for the first time, last Monday. This why I think I'm not putting the ignition in it's right place. When I leave here next week, I will find out for sure just what is going on.

 

[A Wise Guy]

Its not designed to CHARGE a battery. A dead or low battery can easily draw more than 20 amps. Its designed to maintain a charge.

So if it is allways plugged in while towing the battery should not go dead because it will be maintained. Also, a battery can not pull more amperage than it is given. It will just take longer to charge. If a battery can draw more than a source is giving it all trickle chargers would blow up.

 

[snoranger]

So if it is allways plugged in while towing the battery should not go dead because it will be maintained. Also, a battery can not pull more amperage than it is given. It will just take longer to charge. If a battery can draw more than a source is giving it all trickle chargers would blow up.

Correct, it will stay charged.

So in this circuit, there is nothing to limit the draw. Its direct wired to the other battery. The fuse it there to protect from shorts, but if the battery draws more then 20 amps, it will blow the fuse. (or just melt it)