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Extreme bumpy drive definitely something wrong Explorer 96 4x4 4.0

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by FireFighter209, June 12, 2019.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. FireFighter209

    FireFighter209 New Member

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    okay so to start out. I know a lot of you have said the Explorers are rough drivers. I agree. However I don’t think this is the typical “oh this car doesn’t have shocks” kind of feeling. It’s almost as if my tires are skipping. I get weird random, and sometimes multiple bumps from either one side of the car, from the back left or right. Same goes for front. But usually when I turn the skipping gets worse on the two front. Other times I let off the gas and it the entire car is bumpy. To add. It also feels like there is some resistance against me accelerating. When I let off the gas my car kind of forces the pedal for me. If that makes sense. It just doesn’t wanna allow the gas to be pressed. There is no more cruising, as soon as I let off the gas my car is slowing down fast. Something is whining/growling all at the same time too. Sounds like it’s coming from my axle. I have no idea what’s going on. To top it off, Whenever it’s hot outside, my car seems to flash the 4x4 light and 4x4 low light, this happens continuously. At the same time, my windows will not roll down or up. To get this to stop I have to not drive for a little bit. But since it’s been 100+ lately, it’s already flashing the lights in the morning. I do not have ac so you can imagine how much of a pain in the ass this is. If anyone can help me understand these issues
     
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  3. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Sounds like it's in 4wd low range.

    What's your rpms at 30 mph?

    Those flashing lights are trying to tell you it needs serviced. Get the codes read.
     
    Last edited: June 18, 2019
  4. EB4X

    EB4X Active Member

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    I was going to say the same.....if so your system is probably toast by now....or close to it..
    You need new window regulator motor assembly's most likely.....but .............
     
  5. FireFighter209

    FireFighter209 New Member

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    It seems to be normal. But what part of this makes you think it is stuck in 4wd low? When I go from 2wd to 4wd I can hear it click. So idk. The rpms are usually above 2,000 depending on how hard I’m stomping on the gas. Other than that I’m normally going 1,500-1,900 while driving 65. Also what kind of code would that be to where my windows stop functioning as well?
     
  6. FireFighter209

    FireFighter209 New Member

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    Okay went driving. Put it in 4wd low. Definitely not the issue. The resistance I feel is much worse than in 2wd. So that is a relief. However I am confused on the blinking lights being linked with a code that also disables the windows from rolling up or down
     
  7. Exploring XLT

    Exploring XLT Elite Explorer

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    Do this.
     
  8. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Ok, that's good that it isn't in low range, but now it could be in 4wd H. What your describing sounds as if it is in 4wd on the pavement.

    You only hear the shift motor click from 4 High to 4 Low on the 96. Not from 2wdH to 4wdH. You have the control trac 4405 transfer case. Switching from 2wd to 4wdH, only tells the case to allow power (magnet clutch) to the front differential.

    The 4wd lights blinking are warnings. Warnings trigger codes. There fore, you should have stored codes to help you here.

    I didn't mention anything to do with your windows, as that issue is minuscule compared to the drivetrain issue. This forum is flooded with thousands of posts to help you on that. All you have to do is use the search feature here, and get your answers. This is the least of your problems.
     
  9. masospaghetti

    masospaghetti Elite Explorer

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    The bumpy ride might be worn suspension / blown shocks. You need to do an inspection to see what components are worn. I would also check motor mounts and body mounts.
     
  10. FireFighter209

    FireFighter209 New Member

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    Okay thank you, I appreciate it. How do I begin searching for a code like that? Wouldn’t that the same blinking apply to all of us? The window issue only sucks because it’s 106+ a day here and my i recharged my AC and got nothing out of it. Luckily I caught it this morning when it was cooler, the blinking lights were off, so my windows rolled down, where they’re gonna have to stay for now on unfortunately. What’s the possibility of swapping out the electric shit in my door and just making a mechanical one like some cars??


    Also, I agree with the 4x4 on pavement that you mentioned. It feels like shit. I also got told by someone it could be that my tires in the back are different from my two in front. Both same size, but the difference is the tread as they’re made by two different companies. He said it could be skipping because of the tires sending delayed messages to the computer? Or other way around? Idk. If it is my front differential after all, couldn’t this be solved by simply removing my front driveshaft.
     
  11. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  12. XLTrunner

    XLTrunner Active Member

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    It's imperative that a person run same tires/same tread depth/same pressures when operating in 4WD or 4WD Auto (later models) on a daily basis in order to not risk damaging the transfer case. You're fortunate in that you have the factory option of only running in true 2WD...and thus, the tire size difference wouldn't be in play. However, if you've been running in 4WD HI (or LO) consistently then yes, it could be attributable to tire size difference. If that is the case, you won't be able to undo the damage already done to the transfer case by simply installing all new tires. As for the front driveshaft...as a work-around, go ahead and remove it and see if it makes a noticeable difference. Not that difficult to do.

    I can't explain the odd power loss of your windows on hot days. I understand a very few Explorers (maybe fleet vehicles?) came with manual windows. However, in all the dozens upon dozens I've looked at in the JY's over the years, I've never seen one. Seems to me that would be the hard way of solving this problem.
     
    Last edited: June 14, 2019
  13. gatzdon

    gatzdon Active Member

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    OP,

    You can pick up a bluetooth OBDII scanner on amazon for about $20 shipped. You can download Forscan for free (might be ~$5 for Android Version).

    This will allow you to read the DTC's from all computers in the vehicle, not just the OBD computer. The codes from the Powertrain Control Module will likely be more specific and meaningful. If you post your full list of codes from all computers, users here can help you figure out which ones to tackle first as issues have a tendency to cascade causing other symptoms.
     
  14. Gary Crist

    Gary Crist Member

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    High pressure gas shocks will somewhat tame the ride of our 4x4s. I used
    Bilsteins ( a little expensive) on the front and KYBs on the rear.

    Measure the diameter of the tires on the truck jacked up to see if there is a difference.
    A string makes a great tool.

    Let us know....
     
  15. Explorer2.0

    Explorer2.0 Our low milage and well cared for 2nd Gen TARDIS! Elite Explorer

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    Is your O/D light blinking? Our '95 (OBD I) did that which meant the tranny was in "Limp Home" mode. The dealership was useless... Relying on reading codes and looking in books and suggesting a junkyard tranny with 90,000 miles. Ours only had 60,000 at the time. We asked to have ours rebuilt but they said no rebuild kits available. Maybe not from FORD but plenty online. As a last ditch effort we pulled the battery cable and let it sit overnight. Hooked it back up and went for a drive and everything was fine. The dealer could've easily reset it and for the ridiculous "Diagnostic Fee" they should've. That was over 12,000 miles ago.

    Concerning the flashing 4WD lights and Power Windows? Let me see if I can dig up what worked for us.

    Team TARDIS
     
  16. Explorer2.0

    Explorer2.0 Our low milage and well cared for 2nd Gen TARDIS! Elite Explorer

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    UGH!!! The site went down as we tried to post this.

    Concerning the flashing 4WD lights and Power Windows, this is the workaround on our '95. We lost the "One Touch
    Down" function and also the "Rear Window Defogger" function. We had previously been resetting with an
    OBD-I reader but that was hit and miss.

    Under the dash, between the steering column and center console is a set of relays with a plastic cover on it.
    Using our manuals we decided to cut the two tabs as shown. The 4WD lights still blink when raising or lowering
    the window but it goes up smoothly where previously it was jerky, as if in sync with the flashing 4WD lights.
    We had tried replacing relays which hadn't solved anything so we had a few to experiment with.

    Try pulling the relay first to see if that solves anything. The window won't work at all but it may help with the troubleshooting.

    We hope this helps, good luck!

    Team TARDIS

    01 Relays Underdash.jpg

    02 Underdash Relays.jpg
     
  17. FireFighter209

    FireFighter209 New Member

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    My overdrive does not blink, BUT it does come on usually when I drive a bit more than usual. It’ll just come on and stay on, but goes off and away once I turn the car off. But I haven’t dealt with any blinking with OD

    Okay so I threw my vehicle in neutral. Switched to 4wd LO and then reversed 30 feet. Drove back. Threw car back into neutral and then back to 2wd. The blinking 4WD lights ended instantly, and my windows began rolling up and down again after being permanently stuck for a week. I’ve dealt with that before but never this long. It was a relief. Until today I started up my vehicle and it was back on after only two days.


    I can lift my driveshaft a little up and down just by grabbing it and shaking it. I imagine this thing shouldn’t be moving at all. Any guesses what exactly would cause it jerk around like it? This all started about 10 months ago, when I released my gas sometimes I would get an instant *BAM* just like that, as if something metal was being held back with a ton of pressure and whatever holding it back slipped, and it hit something hard. That’s what it felt and sounded like, this quickly turned into me releasing gas pedal, and instead of that, it went to vibration and grinding metallic noise and could be felt through the gas pedal. It would last until I applied the gas again. Now I’m kind of dealing with it rattling at certain speeds and still releasing of the gas pedal. However now I can say, when I’m hitting 55MPH I now feel something shaking underneath me, the shaking noise sounds just like the rattling noise I’m use to. To give you guys a good example. It can be best felt right in front of the brake pedal, I imagine what’s directly underneath that spot is still my driveshaft. This is why I’m ultimately gonna remove it, not sure if it’ll fix my window issue but I know I don’t want this thing to give on the road.

    Is there any suggestions of what I should do before removing driveshaft? Do I just leave both ends open? Nothing back covering it up? For reference I do have the 96 Ford Explorer 4.0 4x4
     
  18. koda2000

    koda2000 Explorer Addict

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    Sound to me like your transfer case is f'd up. If you keep driving it the way it is a catastrophic failure is in your future. If you don't want to get into repairing/fixing your t-case right now, remove the front drive shaft and see of the symptoms go away. They may, they may not. There's nothing that will "remain open" with the shaft removed, but while the shaft is out you should check the DS joints and replace as necessary if you plan to reinstall it at some point. IDK if the '96 used a CV joint at the t-case. If it does they can be rebuilt fairly easily (rather than buying a new/reman shaft). The U-joint can also be replaced.
     
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  19. gmanpaint

    gmanpaint It's Always Something! Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    96 does not have the front CV style shaft, that started mid 97.

    I agree with Koda. The 4405 T-case, are well known for breaking down.

    Expensive to rebuild or buy new. Used from the JY is a crap shoot with them as well. Cheaper alternative and for strong reliability, is to swap a 1354 Manual case into it. Uses the same drive shafts you currently have. Hardest part about the swap is installing the shift lever.
     
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