Fixed my reverse parking sensor system | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Fixed my reverse parking sensor system

How to find which of the sensors is not working?

The reverse parking sensors on my 2003 Limited did not work. Just like most of the people here who are complaining about the sensors not working, it would switch off as soon as you shift to reverse. In Park, you could press the sensor disable switch and turn the light off, but as soon as you shifted to Reverse, the disable light would come back on and the sensor system would shut off.

From doing some research, I found out that this is the way that the Explorer reports "hey, one of the sensors has failed."

While Ford wanted over $100 apiece for them, and other online vendors sold them for $60 each, I found a guy selling surplus sensors on eBay for $8 each. Not knowing which/how many of my sensors were bad, I decided to buy four of them - with shipping around $36.

I got the sensors quickly, and put them in yesterday. Once I got everything back together, everything worked perfectly! I'm very pleased!

Here's a guide as to how I did mine.

Open the rear liftgate and remove the four philips screws on each side holding the rear taillights in place. Gently pull each taillight to the rear until it releases. Remove the lightbulb assemblies from the lens (rotate counter clockwise). Set the lenses aside.

On each side in the area just above the bumper cover exposed by the removed lenses, you will see two screws with hex heads (you will need a socket to remove them). One of the screws is horizontal (head facing straight up), and the other one is screwed into an angular bracket (facing up and to the front). You need to remove only the angular one - the horizontal one fastens a bracket to the bumper cover and should remain fastened. You may want to hit the screws with some PB Blaster first to loosen them up.

Underneath the bumper cover, on each side (on the sides, near the lower front of the bumper cover), are two more screws, one on each side. You will have to lay under the back of the truck to see them. Remove these screws - use PB Blaster on these as well.

Along the top of the bumper cover are a series of plastic pins. All of these have to be removed. If you don't have a pin tool, you can gently use two flat-blade screwdrivers. Slip the screwdrivers into the small slot on each pin, and use them to gently work the center locking pin out about 1/4". You may want to just start it with the screwdrivers and pull it out with your fingers. Once it's pulled out, the rest of the pin can be removed from the bumper cover. It's OK if the locking pin comes all the way out - just remove the rest of the pin, then fit the locking pin back into the main pin body.

Get something soft - a large blanket, sleeping bag, etc. and lay it on the ground under the rear bumper. This is what the bumper cover will rest on, so you don't scratch the paint on it.

Starting on the driver's side, pull the bumper cover up and to the rear until it disengages from the pin lock. Repeat on the passenger side. Gently remove the bumper cover. It will be fastened to the truck on the passenger side by a wiring harness. You can leave this wiring harness connected. Lay the bumper cover on the ground, with the paint side facing down.

The wiring harness is fastened to the EPS (styrofoam) on the passenger side. Gently pull out the pin holding the harness to the styrofoam to free the wires.

Using a deep 1/2" socket, remove the three large flat steel nuts on the plastic bolts that hold the styrofoam in place. Gently remove the styrofoam from the inside of the bumper cover. You will now be looking at the back of the parking sensors.

Very very gently, on the inside of the bumper cover, lift the two tabs on the side of each sensor, then push the sensor through from the outside (paint side) of the bumper. Press down on the end of the connector lock and gently pull the sensor off of the connector. Push the new sensor onto the connector until it locks into place. Push the sensor back into the hole in the bumper until it locks into place. Repeat for each sensor.

Replace the styrofoam, ensuring the plastic bolts go up through the holes, and the plastic tabs on the inside of the bumper cover hold everything in the correct position. Make sure the wiring harness is routed correctly. Reinstall the flat steel nuts onto the plastic nuts. Reinsert the plastic wiring harness plug into the styrofoam.

Gently lift the bumper cover back onto the bumper and position it into place. On the lower front sides of the bumper cover, you will see plastic tabs that fit into holes on the bodywork. Ensure the tabs fit into the holes correctly. Push the bumper cover until it seats properly. Reinstall the two top screws to hold it in place, then reinstall the bottom screws.

Reinstall each plastic pin - with the center locking pin still extended, push the main part of the pin into each hole until it is snug against the bumper cover, then push the locking pin in to lock it into place.

Take each taillight lens and reinstall the light bulb assemblies. Make sure you put the right bulb in the right hole! Turn clockwise to lock into place. Replace each lens in place. Make sure the metal screw fits into the locking tab, and that the plastic tabs fit into their respective holes. Once you've got it lined up, give the lens a good push to lock it into place. Replace the two philips screws to fasten it into place. Repeat with the other lens.

You're done! Enjoy your functioning parking sensor! The whole process took me about an hour to do, and that's with never seeing the assembly before, or having any idea of how to get the bumper cover off.

The sensor test described below will determine which of the ultrasonic backup sensors (likely only one) is to be replaced without any dis-assembly.
As it turned out only one of ultrasonic sensors on my Explorer backup warning system was bad. In order to determine if a sensor is working, listen close to the sensor -- a working sensor clicks audibly if you put your ear to it. Engage the parking breaks, put blocks under the wheels; better have someone you trust press on the service breaks, while you are listening at the rear bumper. (I had the sensor harness out by the time of this test, so I was standing on the side of the vehicle with the sensors easily accessible for immediate replacement. The sensors are electrically hardened and can be swapped live. Once a non-clicking sensor was replaced the system started operating immediately. I did not find an easy way to test these digital sensors when disconnected from the vehicle harness, however the above clicking test is fast and effective for our purposes.)
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





We certainly appreciate the info Nek.
 






"Here's a guide as to how I did mine.

Open the rear liftgate and remove the four philips screws on each side holding the rear taillights in place. Gently pull each taillight to the rear until it releases. Remove the lightbulb assemblies from the lens (rotate counter clockwise). Set the lenses aside.

On each side in the area just above the bumper cover exposed by the removed lenses, you will see two screws with hex heads (you will need a socket to remove them). One of the screws is horizontal (head facing straight up), and the other one is screwed into an angular bracket (facing up and to the front). You need to remove only the angular one - the horizontal one fastens a bracket to the bumper cover and should remain fastened. You may want to hit the screws with some PB Blaster first to loosen them up.

Underneath the bumper cover, on each side (on the sides, near the lower front of the bumper cover), are two more screws, one on each side. You will have to lay under the back of the truck to see them. Remove these screws - use PB Blaster on these as well."

I can't find these two screws described in the bold red part...does anyone have a more concise description as to how I can find these? TIA!!
 






Nevermind....I figured it out. My 2003 Mountaineer has 4 plastic push-pin type fasteners in each wheel well (where mudflaps would go) that needed to be removed. The 2 screws described in the OP's tutorial that I questioned didn't apply to me. My bad!
 






Nevermind....I figured it out. My 2003 Mountaineer has 4 plastic push-pin type fasteners in each wheel well (where mudflaps would go) that needed to be removed. The 2 screws described in the OP's tutorial that I questioned didn't apply to me. My bad!


I stumbled around trying to find the same screws on my 2003 Mountaineer, but finally figured it out. Got it all hooked up and working fine, although it took a bit longer than the 20 minutes mentioned above...

Thanks for the info everyone. I'm a new member, but this forum has helped me a ton in the past few months.
 






I know I'm chiming in on a very old thread, sorry for the bump, but I recently purchased a 2004 XLT with the backup sensors. When I discovered that they didn't work, I found this thread, ordered a set of four new sensors off of ebay, and commenced to following the wonderful instructions in the original post just this very afternoon.

After struggling a bit with the bumper removal, I finally got it off and swapped out all four sensors....only to find that the system is still not working.

So here is my question - I noticed that there is the one cable which has the four connectors on it that leads up to the wiring harness where the trailer light hookup is also connected. Could that cable be faulty? Is it possible to buy a replacement cable and connect it to the truck and all four new sensors, or could the problem still reside somewhere else in the electrical system further beyond where the sensor cable connects to the wires coming from the truck body?

I appreciate any feedback that anyone can share with me. Thank you!
 






Easy backup sensor fix

Working backup sensors make ticking noises, turn ignition to run, Dont start!! put on parking brake, shift into reverse and stick your ear to each sensor no clicking sound indicates bad sensor, worked for me perfectly :salute:
 






I have same prob with my 2003 explorer EB. From my research I have learned that there is a Parking Assist Module (PAM) that interprets signals from the bumper sensors. I think the PAM may be the culprit. As far as I know there is no way to test it other than replace it. I would like to replace mine, but I don't know where it is. Sounds like the speaker is in the rear passenger side. Since you have a 04 your PAM may be in a different location. Don't think the wiring you mentioned is the prob.
 






I have same prob with my 2003 explorer EB. From my research I have learned that there is a Parking Assist Module (PAM) that interprets signals from the bumper sensors. I think the PAM may be the culprit. As far as I know there is no way to test it other than replace it. I would like to replace mine, but I don't know where it is. Sounds like the speaker is in the rear passenger side. Since you have a 04 your PAM may be in a different location. Don't think the wiring you mentioned is the prob.

Thanks Tom. I think I read somewhere that the module is located behind the panel on the passenger side rear. I bought mine used and had to pull back this panel piece where the passenger back seatbelt comes out to find my keyless entry code. Behind that was a black box that had my five digit factory door lock code on it. I'm wondering if that was the module.
 






Reverse Sensing System (RSS)

Thanks Tom. I think I read somewhere that the module is located behind the panel on the passenger side rear. I bought mine used and had to pull back this panel piece where the passenger back seatbelt comes out to find my keyless entry code. Behind that was a black box that had my five digit factory door lock code on it. I'm wondering if that was the module.

I don't think so--believe that was the module for keyless entry system. I visited the Ford garage today and the guy I talked to said that the backup speaker was usually attached to the Parking Assist Module (PAM). He thought the PAM on the 03 Explorer is located behind the passenger side rear trim panel which looks like a difficult thing to remove.
 






Just wanted to thank you for this post. My neighbor who is a recently retired auto mechanic hooked up his scanner and within a minute he was able to determine which sensor was bad. So bought a sensor on amazon and within an hour it was working for the first time in a couple of years.
 






what scanner did your neighbor hook up to find the bad sensor?

159k on my '05 and this just popped....
 






Sorry for not getting back sooner but was out of town and no access to the internet. It was his personal hand held scanner from work. I would say a step or two above what an autozone or oreilly's might have for checking codes. But maybe call an autozone and see if their scanner could handle it. I'll check if he's still home because he may have left for his cabin already with memorial weekend coming up. There was something on the internet about putting it in reverse and then covering up each sensor and listening for a clicking noise and if no noise that was the one that was bad.
 






HERE is how you diagnose your backup sensors!

Working backup sensors make ticking noises, turn ignition to run, Dont start!! put on parking brake, shift into reverse and stick your ear to each sensor no clicking sound indicates bad sensor, worked for me perfectly :salute:

Dude, [MENTION=253763]FordExplorer4wd[/MENTION] you are awesome! :salute:

I pulled two back up sensor assemblies from Aviators at the wrecking yard. (They are painted the color of the car and they sit flush with the bumper.) Installed them both in my 3rd gens. My '04 works flawlessly, every time. My '05 didn't work, then would, then wouldn't.

Today I put my ear up to the sensors, two were ticking and two weren't. So I've either got bad sensors (that occasionally work) or I have bad connections. At least I know which two are the issues!
 






what scanner did your neighbor hook up to find the bad sensor?

159k on my '05 and this just popped....

You can do it yourself if you have a bluetooth capable laptop and ~$10 for an ELM327 OBDII from Amazon or eBay: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EQ57BE8/
Using ForScan (http://forscan.org/) and the bluetooth adapter, you have a very capable tool. (I know they make WiFi versions of the adapter as well, but I do not have any experience with that one.) ForScan can read the PAM (Parking Assist Module) and get the specific code for the specific sensor that is bad. I checked last night and found that the "rear outer left" sensor of mine is bad. It was a lot easier than trying to listen to each sensor, not to mention definitive.
 






I last posted in 2009 that I was going to do something about this and yesterday I finally ordered new sensors off of Ebay for $40. Should be here this weekend and I can't wait to get them installed!
 






I just picked up an '02 Limited that the parking sensor light would come on when shifting into reverse. I replaced all 4 sensors today and now the speaker is constantly on when in reverse.

Any ideas?
 






One of those sensors thinks it's seeing something close. Or there is a wiring problem somewhere. You need a scan tool to see what the four sensors are reading.

You don't have anything obstructing the sensor, right?

These trucks will start beeing as the sensors see something behind the truck. The close you get to it, the more they beep faster. When you are about a foot or two away from an object, the beep becomes one long steady tone.
 






I cleared the codes stored in the backup sensor module. That seemed to fix the issue.

The app recommended a few post above works great.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Thanks

Thanks for this info everyone. Got my 2004 Explorer Eddie Bauer's rear parking sensors done easily and found out it was not my reverse lights that were blowing the fuse. Big Help in getting it done easier.:thumbsup:
 






Back
Top