Front end clunk - bushing failure?

[SHUMAX]

There are only so many things you can do to fix passenger side clunking or creaking noises and you have done almost all of them, at least related to the suspension. Some of the fixes are as follows:

- If the clunking seems loud and almost like metal on metal and happens while driving straight and turning over speed bumps, it could be strut mounts. Drive slowly and crank the steering wheel back and forth swiftly and if you hear the noise then it's very likely it's the strut mounts.

- Other possibilities are the ball joints, control and sway arm bushings.

- Lastly if your getting an almost creaking type or slight clunking noise when turning right over uneven surfaces or speed bumps from the passenger side, it could be the subframe bushings. I had mine replaced and now there is absolutely no noise anymore. It was a long drawn out process, but I finally have no noise when driving over any bump or uneven surface straight or turning.

I replaced the 2011 that had the issues above. The 2014 Sport I have now is just starting to get clunky in the front end at speeds under 35mph over uneven surfaces. Or, at 55-65mph over rough highway roads. I can hear a metal clanking/rattling in these situations.

I plan to start with the sway bar links and sway bar bushings as they are less expensive. The struts and strut bearings were replaced about 8k ago at 38k; vehicle has 46k on it now. So, I doubt it's those. Also, the noise outlined above was there before and after these parts were replaced. That tells me it wasn't those.

If the above doesn't work, I'll replace both front control arms and the rear hydro bushing on both. It seems that these are prone to issues on this vehicle; particularly the rear hydro bushing. It's a shame it's an issue with only 46k on the clock...

Shumax

 

[Sixonemale]

I replaced the 2011 that had the issues above. The 2014 Sport I have now is just starting to get clunky in the front end at speeds under 35mph over uneven surfaces. Or, at 55-65mph over rough highway roads. I can hear a metal clanking/rattling in these situations.

I plan to start with the sway bar links and sway bar bushings as they are less expensive. The struts and strut bearings were replaced about 8k ago at 38k; vehicle has 46k on it now. So, I doubt it's those. Also, the noise outlined above was there before and after these parts were replaced. That tells me it wasn't those.

If the above doesn't work, I'll replace both front control arms and the rear hydro bushing on both. It seems that these are prone to issues on this vehicle; particularly the rear hydro bushing. It's a shame it's an issue with only 46k on the clock...

Shumax

Your definitely proceeding in the correct order. I'm doubting it's the sway bar bushings, plus you should be able get a good visual of them before replacing, though a visual is no guarantee they are good or not. There are also the ball joints as you are aware which is also a fairly inexpensive repair. It definitely could be the control arm bushings and if not those, I would be looking at the front subframe bushings.

It's a real shame that front end noises keep coming up in this forum again and again. I owned one of the first Explorers ever made in 1990/1991 which had numerous problems with the front end which I chalked up to being related to a first generation vehicle. My 2002 had a rock solid front end and here it is again, numerous front end issues with the 5th generation Explorers. Compared to the first two Explorers that I owned, the 5th generation Explorer seems to be much more of a car than a truck vs the older generation Explorers which were more like a truck than car.

 

[SHUMAX]

In the shop now as they replace the sway bar links. Didn't have bushings in stock so we will see...

 

[SHUMAX]

$160 for new front stab links - labor is $90. Wow. Drove 30 miles home and it seems to have quieted down. I do have to say that each time I have the oil changed, etc. - anytime the car is lifted - that the suspension sounds/feels tighter and is quieter for a few days afterwards. Same situation here or were these the issue? Report back in a few days...

 

[Iceracer]

I had a RF end link replaced at 56K and now at 80K it is apparent that the other side needs done. Obviously a weak component.

 

[SHUMAX]

UPDATE:

Well, replacing the stab links did NOT resolve my issue, unfortunately.

A bit more detail: I had the struts and strut mounts replaced at 38k as the struts were leaking. 9k later, here I sit wondering if it's the strut mounts. I hesitate because the noise sounds LOW in the suspension. It only seems to occur where you have a dip in the concrete - not concrete sticking up. So, if you drive over two pieces of concrete that have a crack in them that creates a DIP, I get a clunk/knock low in the suspension. Drive over a crack that is sticking UP? Nothing. Sounds solid.

My next stop is front sway bar bushings to see if those help. From there, the lower control arm/ball joints will come out along with the hydro bushing the LCA mounts to in the rear.

I just can't get over the fact these are issues with 47k on a $45k vehicle.

Shumax

 

[tazcubed]

Good luck everyone

With a new vehicle on order and an anticipated delivery of end of May/early June, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the clunk doesn't reappear nor anything else show up/break down.

In my opinion, given the number of people I suspect have been affected, there should have been a recall.

Needless to say, the new purchase is something other than Ford. They have some serious issues to address, and as long as sales are going strong I doubt they're going to tackle them appropriately.

Good luck to everyone here.

 

[SHUMAX]

This is my second explorer in not even a year with similar issues. I sincerely wish you luck but anticipate you will meet this in 45k, too.

I stopped by the dealership today to order the front sway bar bushings. They will be here tomorrow and go into the suspension on Monday. I will report Back then.

 

[peterk9]

With a new vehicle on order and an anticipated delivery of end of May/early June, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the clunk doesn't reappear nor anything else show up/break down.

In my opinion, given the number of people I suspect have been affected, there should have been a recall.

Needless to say, the new purchase is something other than Ford. They have some serious issues to address, and as long as sales are going strong I doubt they're going to tackle them appropriately.

Good luck to everyone here.

Recalls are only issued for 'safety' related issues.

Peter

 

[SHUMAX]

Took it in today for new front sway bar bushings. The old one is on the right and far more hallowed out than the new one - on the left. Perhaps this is the issue?

So, new sway bar stab links and sway bar bushings. Also, new front struts and strut mount/bearings about 9k ago. We'll know more soon...

***Bonus - they found the rubber tubing connecting to the front turbo was sliding off of the turbo. It was leaking oil out of that tube - it was coated in oil and about to drip. Looks like it just needed to be slip back onto the pipe and tightened down.

 

[RandyH2]

I don't know bushings but the new one looks like a different/revised part- the walls are thicker and the overall shape seems different. Obviously there is a wear issue on this part, would the wear normally cause that much of a change?

Thanks for posting!

 

[Sixonemale]

Took it in today for new front sway bar bushings. The old one is on the right and far more hallowed out than the new one - on the left. Perhaps this is the issue?

So, new sway bar stab links and sway bar bushings. Also, new front struts and strut mount/bearings about 9k ago. We'll know more soon...

Let us know how it turns out. If this does not get rid of the noise, your next step IMO would be the front subframe bushings.

 

[Iceracer]

As suspected recent front end rattle is another end link. Right side done at 56K now at 82K the left side is pooched. Dealer says that tech recommended that both sides be done. I was surprised to hear that there that there is no warranty on the one that was done previously even though there is only 26K on it. The warranty ends at 60K. They both should probably been replaced at 56K under warranty. I have agreed to the work but somehow feel that I'm getting ripped off.

 

[kk239]

As suspected recent front end rattle is another end link. Right side done at 56K now at 82K the left side is pooched. Dealer says that tech recommended that both sides be done. I was surprised to hear that there that there is no warranty on the one that was done previously even though there is only 26K on it. The warranty ends at 60K. They both should probably been replaced at 56K under warranty. I have agreed to the work but somehow feel that I'm getting ripped off.

Replaced the passenger side end link at 30K (under warranty). Just had the driver side link go bad at 40K and replaced that myself this past weekend. Put aftermarket links on both sides.

Working in the automotive aftermarket with chassis and suspension components, I’ve seen all types and styles of end links over the years and I’ve been to the factories overseas that make them. End links aren’t anything complex and OE links are usually pretty inexpensively made but can last upwards of 80K+ miles depending on driving styles and road conditions.

The end link construction uses a steel rod welded to steel housing ends. The housing ends contain a POM cup (Polyoxymethylene - Delrin would be a popular brand name associated with POM) that the ball stud moves within, and is not adequately “captured” within the ball stud housing. Most designs use a closed metal housing or steel washer to retain the POM cup in the housing. On these links the POM cup appears to be over molded into the housing which causes it to retain itself in the housing. Over time the POM cup works itself loose and moves in and out of the housing while creating a loose and sloppy ball stud fit creating a knocking sound at low speeds over small bumps.

It can be easily diagnosed by turning your steering wheel all the way in one direction or the other so you can reach around the front wheel. By doing this you can grab hold of the end link and try moving it toward you and the engine compartment. If you feel the slightest of movement (can be as minimal as .5mm-1mm) then you may want to consider changing them out. In my case it was the upper end of the link that went bad on both the left and right sides. Movement of the POM cup was minimal, but swapping the end links out eliminated the low speed knocking sound I was getting.

 

[Sixonemale]

As suspected recent front end rattle is another end link. Right side done at 56K now at 82K the left side is pooched. Dealer says that tech recommended that both sides be done. I was surprised to hear that there that there is no warranty on the one that was done previously even though there is only 26K on it. The warranty ends at 60K. They both should probably been replaced at 56K under warranty. I have agreed to the work but somehow feel that I'm getting ripped off.

I'm semi familiar with the front end noises coming from:

- Strut mount bearings
- Struts
- Sway arm bushings
- Control arm bushings
- Ball joints

But I'm not familiar with what you are calling the "end link"? Could you either show a photo or describe where it's located? Thanks

 

[kk239]

This is not an actual Explorer in the picture, but this shows (in the oval) the location of the end link (aka: stabilizer link or stabilizer end link). It mounts to a bracket on the strut up top, and the sway bar at the bottom.

 

[SHUMAX]

Well, I am happy to report the sway bar bushings seems to have fixed my issue. I have put 150 miles on the vehicle since replacement. I have driven on all sorts of roads; some very rough.

Again, I would get a clunk/rattle when there was a dip in the road that I hit at speeds around 25-40mph. Also, on the highway, I would get a slight banging that almost resonated in the front end when I hit heaved expansion joints.

With the new sway bar stab links, it was slightly better, but still there. You can see above that the sway bar BUSHINGS were hallowed out considerably. I can almost picture the sway bar banging against the metal sway bar bushing mounting bracket, or the sub frame itself. If you think about it, there was about a 1/4" of rubber separating those surfaces. It doesn't take much for the bar to start banging around in there and hitting adjacent metal surfaces.

47,500 miles. I admit, I'm surprised; however, I also don't live in an area with smooth street surfaces. They are not horrible; however, they are also not perfectly smooth.

Shumax

 

[tazcubed]

Yeah, mine lasted long. I'm now at ~48,500 km roughly and with 1 week to go before it is a trade-in I'm starting to get the same rattle back in the front end. I think this marks the 4th time for this problem. I don't drive on buttery smooth roads, but they're not horrible either - I've babied this "truck" more than should be necessary.

Nah, I'm not getting another one of these. Ford, you lost me as a client - not for just this, but a myriad of problems.

 

[BobbyMarks]

I have been monitoring this thread for some time. I was experiencing a "clunk" noise @ front right side. Anyways, took it to the dealer and they came back with rear struts needed to b replaced. I went ahead and replaced them as one was leaking but the front end noise was still present.
Waited until an opportunity and returned to the dealer. The first day could not replicate the noise I was experiencing. Strange was that the noise was only on un-even surfaces and multi-level parking (where I live) and then after during the day the noise was gone.
Told them, keep the car for a couple of days, drive it in the morning and let me know.
After three days they called me, car is fixed. This was about a month ago and no noise.
Result: Engine mount right side.

 

[SHUMAX]

Interesting. How much did the repair cost?