Front Pumpkin swap

[Xplorer92]

I have a '92 X 4x4 with stock 3:27 gears I've been turning 33s for several months now with no problem except on steep inclines and when towing. I have a set of stock 3:73 gears (front pumpkin and rear axle) off of another X, the rear axle swap is gravy, but I'm a little concerned with the front swap, Primarily because I don't have the whole drivers side axle I only have the pumpkin. Is it as simple as just swaping them out and making sure the gasket is sealed or is it more involved? I know I will have to move the radius arm but thats no big deal. If anyone has any heads up for me or some helpful tips they want to post I would really appreciate it. Thank You

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'92 Explorer XLT 4x4 3" body lift, 5.5" superlift suspension, 33x12.50 Procomp X-Terrains, Warn manaul hubs, Hoop steps
Check it out at..... http://members.cardomain.com/timberwolf0378

 

[RockRanger]

thats it. Disconnect driveshaft pull the axles take the 10 bolts out and the one behind the radius arm. clean the gasket area up and put it all back together. Only possible thing you may want to consider is pulling the c-clip off the axle inside the diff and then putting a sping in the slip yoke on the passanger side axle. This is a mod you have to do when you instal a lunch box locker and also just makes it easier to replace if you ever break the inner u joint.

 

[Xplorer92]

Thanks for advice, this info will help this project go alot smoother. Another question though. I would eventually like to add lockers to my diffs, would it be wise for me to go ahead and lock it up while I have it all apart, or is this an expensive mod that may be more then an average wrench turner can handle? Do I need special tools to do this?

 

[JTX]

I would consider putting a lunch box locker in it while you have it out.

 

[RockRanger]

Thanks for advice, this info will help this project go alot smoother. Another question though. I would eventually like to add lockers to my diffs, would it be wise for me to go ahead and lock it up while I have it all apart, or is this an expensive mod that may be more then an average wrench turner can handle? Do I need special tools to do this?

Depends on the type of locker you install. An ARB or Detroit will require you to reset up the gears. This is usually more then an average wrench spin. ARBs can run well over $600 plus a compresor to lock it up. Detroits I belive are around $500

A lunch box locker such as a lock right, quick lock or aussi locker as mentioned above is not hard to install at all. Once you get the differential pulled there is a pin that holds the cross shaft in that holds the spyder gears in. Hit the pin out with an awl or small screw driver then pull the cross shaft out. After that the spyder gears can be spun right out and then replce them with the locker as in the directions that should come with locker. You may or may not have to remove the carrier and or ring gear. I can't remember if I had to when I installed mine or not. There are plenty of people that can walk you through this on this site if you run into problems. A lunch box locker usually runs $200-350 depending on the type you get.

I can't remember where the carrier split is in the dana 35 but if you were to buy a full case locker (ARB or Detroit) and later down the road decide you want lower gears, the locker you bought may not be good for the lower gears. It is something to check into when you buy the locker. I am 90% sure that a lunch box locker will fit what ever carrier you have.

 

[Xplorer92]

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Josh S.]

thats it. Disconnect driveshaft pull the axles take the 10 bolts out and the one behind the radius arm. clean the gasket area up and put it all back together. Only possible thing you may want to consider is pulling the c-clip off the axle inside the diff and then putting a sping in the slip yoke on the passanger side axle. This is a mod you have to do when you instal a lunch box locker and also just makes it easier to replace if you ever break the inner u joint.

yo rockranger I'm surprised I've never heard of this mod. My truck like to blow that inner u-joint a lot, this would make replacing it a snap! What kind of spring did you use? So all ya do is pull the c-clip and throw a spring in the u-joint to keep the axle in the pumpkin? Sounds simple and a time-saver

 

[RockRanger]

yo rockranger I'm surprised I've never heard of this mod. My truck like to blow that inner u-joint a lot, this would make replacing it a snap! What kind of spring did you use? So all ya do is pull the c-clip and throw a spring in the u-joint to keep the axle in the pumpkin? Sounds simple and a time-saver

I used a head valve spring in my old ranger that I cut down to the right length. Not sure what it was from. I went to a machine shop and asked if he had any old valve springs and he showed me a box and said take what you want. You have to tack weld the cap on the inner shaft other wise the spring will push it out and cause all kinds of problems. When we put a locker in teh front of rangerX ranger we used one from homedepot that was a little softer then the one i used.

here is a write up on the ranger station. I am sure there is more info about on this site as well if you search around.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CClipEliminator.html

 

[410Fortune]

Josh, come on dude my BII has the spring mod with my cut and turned beams....

With the ARB locker I have you cannot run the C clip. I thought we talked about this?

You have to weld the cap shut, and find the right spring length and tension. to me the valve spring was way to stiff, I use a spring from Ace Hardware cut in half, it does the job perfectly

 

[Josh S.]

shoot man, I just never saw a thread about this I guess, or I wasn't listening when you were talking ...What cap are you guys talking about that needs to be welded? Does the spring sit inside the female end then you gotta weld a cap on the male end so the spring can push against it?

 

[410Fortune]

exactly, the spring sits in the slip yoke, the grease cap on the end of the stub shaft must be tacked because the spring will just push it out......

The desert guys have been doing this for years with the TTB's, I personally would keep the C clip if I could, I have never blown a U joint in the D35 with it locked and 35's even, but I have replaced a few pass side inner grease seals on the pumpkin due to the stub shaft moving around alot

 

[Josh S.]

well I've just blown out my second u-joint on the stub shaft...pisses me off to hell cuz its a mojro PITA to replace that shaft. I'll rip it out within the next few weeks and replace the u-joint, and throw the spring in there. It will be nice not to have to take the damn whole front end apart to change that dumb u-joint

 

[410Fortune]

You should look into a high clearance U joint, sounds to me like your front end is maxing it out. What does Camburg recommend? $2000 worth of custom axle shafts?

Yes you will be better off with the spring
get yourself a nice collection of 3-4-5" long springs in different rates from the hardware store before you tear it apart. stainless steel is preferred, and make sure its pretty damn stiff.....but not as stiff as a valve spring (yikes)

 

[Josh S.]

camburg doesn't recommend ****. pretty gay that they sell the kit and it screws **** up, but as everyone says, it aint a kit...you gotta make it work on your own. Once finals are done and I finish drinking all the beer I can humanly consume, I will attend to this matter. And when you gonna get yer ass back out to CA for some wheelin(and workin on my truck )