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Fronthub change out

Art Tonucci

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May 13, 2017
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Eddie bauer
i was convinced that the whirring noise most pronounced at 40 x60 mph, was front left hub and axel bearing, until I got her jacked up and started to remove and replace. The hub had been clearly already changed as was the brake components. I bought t(is used and have put about 15k on it.
The hub shows no sign of looseness or grind or sound when turning by hand. The axel slop is about 1/8 to 1/4 at the CV,s. With good axelbearings and hubs @ 300.00 was looking for opinions. By the way, the right side appears to be original. Looking for opinions and advice.
 



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Well the symptoms sound like a wheel bearing or tires. On the front hubs you cannot check by feeling for looseness they will make noise before you feel any looseness. Take a look at this fourm and my post (3rd one) and take the car for a test drive.
Loud growl front drivers side 40mph (not wheel bearing)

You said the passenger side looks original that is my guess for the bad side but it is possible the new looking one is bad.
 






@Art Tonucci
A front wheel bearing failure is easily determined by the noise level changing as you negotiate turns and curves at speed; won't work in a parking lot.

About 50-55 mph, listen for the noise........turn steering wheel fairly sharply to one side or the other, or do this on a curvy road. If the noise increases while turning, when the vehicle weight is thrown more on one side than the other, certain it's a bad wheel bearing.

Curve to left, body heaves over to the right: noise increases, right side wheel bearing. Opposite for curve to right. It's centrifugal force, loading the wheel bearings on the OUTSIDE of the curve more than the other side's, making a bad bearing noisier.

Harder to diagnose on rears, best on fronts, but still applies. Guaranteed imp
 






I recently replaced my front hubs. Neither one of them showed any sign of loosnes/wiggle or grinding when I jacked up the tire like you normally get with bad bearings. In fact mine was making the bad bearing noise when I bought it, road testing showed in increase in noise turning both directions, but jacking up showrd both tires turned smooth and didn't wiggle at all.... So I just lived with the noise. After about a year and a half owning it, I finaly noticed some abnormal tire wear on the driver front, so I changed that bearing. Let me prepare you, this will be the worst bearing change you will ever do. Normaly its a half hour job if you take your time. I will spare all the details (you can search my posts if you are really curious) but total time was about 4 hours spread over 3 days with the end result being removing the knuckle and using a hydraulic press to remove the hub from the knuckle...... Being recently changed yours will hopefully not be that bad....

Anyway, with both old and new bearings in hand, I could not tell any difference when spinning them by hand, the old one seemed fine, but when I installed the new one and put everything back together, the noise was gone, so obviously that was the problem. The other one went bad a few months later, and despite the knowledge I gained on the first one, it was an even bigger PITA to change... But, all bearing noise is gone... I had forgotten what BFG's sounded like on the highway, lol....

As for the bearing being changed recently, that in no way means it cant be bad again. Amazon and ebay are overflowing with cheap crappy bearings. You can get them for less than 1/2 or even 1/4 what you would pay for a quality bearing, but they tend to last 5-15k miles vs 50-100k+ for good bearings.... Dony buy anything other than moog, timkin, or skf. I bought a grand cherokee last march, and a bearing went bad in september. It was not hard to diagnose, my wife said it felt like the jeep "slipped" on the last turn on the way home then got really noisy.... All wheels on the ground I could push on it and see the wheel wobble. A lot.... Parked it till the bearing came in and upon disassembly, it turned out the brake caliper was the only thing holding the wheel on the jeep. The bearing had no rust on it (recently changed) and also had not brand name, meaning it was a cheap amazon/ebay bearing. If she had been further from home when it happened, I don't believe the jeep would have made it home.... Saving $100 on a bearing isn't worth that, imo.... Up side, the job only took 20 min....
 






i was convinced that the whirring noise most pronounced at 40 x60 mph, was front left hub and axel bearing, until I got her jacked up and started to remove and replace. The hub had been clearly already changed as was the brake components. I bought t(is used and have put about 15k on it.
The hub shows no sign of looseness or grind or sound when turning by hand. The axel slop is about 1/8 to 1/4 at the CV,s. With good axelbearings and hubs @ 300.00 was looking for opinions. By the way, the right side appears to be original. Looking for opinions and advice.
Thank you so much
 






Well the symptoms sound like a wheel bearing or tires. On the front hubs you cannot check by feeling for looseness they will make noise before you feel any looseness. Take a look at this fourm and my post (3rd one) and take the car for a test drive.
Loud growl front drivers side 40mph (not wheel bearing)

You said the passenger side looks original that is my guess for the bad side but it is possible the new looking one is bad.
Thank you
 












@Art Tonucci
A front wheel bearing failure is easily determined by the noise level changing as you negotiate turns and curves at speed; won't work in a parking lot.

About 50-55 mph, listen for the noise........turn steering wheel fairly sharply to one side or the other, or do this on a curvy road. If the noise increases while turning, when the vehicle weight is thrown more on one side than the other, certain it's a bad wheel bearing.

Curve to left, body heaves over to the right: noise increases, right side wheel bearing. Opposite for curve to right. It's centrifugal force, loading the wheel bearings on the OUTSIDE of the curve more than the other side's, making a bad bearing noisier.

Harder to diagnose on rears, best on fronts, but still applies. Guaranteed imp
Thank you
 






I recently replaced my front hubs. Neither one of them showed any sign of loosnes/wiggle or grinding when I jacked up the tire like you normally get with bad bearings. In fact mine was making the bad bearing noise when I bought it, road testing showed in increase in noise turning both directions, but jacking up showrd both tires turned smooth and didn't wiggle at all.... So I just lived with the noise. After about a year and a half owning it, I finaly noticed some abnormal tire wear on the driver front, so I changed that bearing. Let me prepare you, this will be the worst bearing change you will ever do. Normaly its a half hour job if you take your time. I will spare all the details (you can search my posts if you are really curious) but total time was about 4 hours spread over 3 days with the end result being removing the knuckle and using a hydraulic press to remove the hub from the knuckle...... Being recently changed yours will hopefully not be that bad....

Anyway, with both old and new bearings in hand, I could not tell any difference when spinning them by hand, the old one seemed fine, but when I installed the new one and put everything back together, the noise was gone, so obviously that was the problem. The other one went bad a few months later, and despite the knowledge I gained on the first one, it was an even bigger PITA to change... But, all bearing noise is gone... I had forgotten what BFG's sounded like on the highway, lol....

As for the bearing being changed recently, that in no way means it cant be bad again. Amazon and ebay are overflowing with cheap crappy bearings. You can get them for less than 1/2 or even 1/4 what you would pay for a quality bearing, but they tend to last 5-15k miles vs 50-100k+ for good bearings.... Dony buy anything other than moog, timkin, or skf. I bought a grand cherokee last march, and a bearing went bad in september. It was not hard to diagnose, my wife said it felt like the jeep "slipped" on the last turn on the way home then got really noisy.... All wheels on the ground I could push on it and see the wheel wobble. A lot.... Parked it till the bearing came in and upon disassembly, it turned out the brake caliper was the only thing holding the wheel on the jeep. The bearing had no rust on it (recently changed) and also had not brand name, meaning it was a cheap amazon/ebay bearing. If she had been further from home when it happened, I don't believe the jeep would have made it home.... Saving $100 on a bearing isn't worth that, imo.... Up side, the job only took 20 min....
Thank you
 


















Yep, probably same thing. The ones in Motorcraft boxes have Timken stamped on them.
 






Ok, guys, sincere thanks for all of your input. Based on input, I proceeded to change out the front drivers side bearing that was less than 10kmiles old. Upon removal and inspection, it was unbranded and was a lot lighter than the Moog replacement I picked up. Installed with all proper torques ( 185 - 190 ft lbs) on the axel nut. Buy the way the SKF sight has all torque values for axel, brake caliper, and lugs for all vehicles and years.
The moog replacement on the driver side hub and bearing did the trick. All good and no noise.
 






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