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Fuse Box, Radar Detector Hard Wire etc (again)

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorers - Tuning & Mods' started by ukchris, January 2, 2019.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^
  1. ukchris

    ukchris New Member

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    I realize there are threads about this but they all seem to be merged and quite confusing, I have read them and searched all over but still puzzled - so I thought I'd take a chance at a new thread.

    I am installing radar detectors in a 2017 Explorer Sport and a 2017 Edge Titanium. Starting with my Explorer I found the fuse box under the hood and after various contortions have at least caught a glimpse of the one under the dash, I haven't tried reaching it yet... more on that in a moment.

    My plan is to have the detector by the mirror, I realize I could take power from there but also want to have a kill switch so I am thinking I'd aim for the dash fuse panel. I have ordered some fuse taps/splitters but struggle to see how I'm going to locate an appropriate fuse and get the darned thing in there. Is it seriously as difficult as it looks or are there parts of the trim than can be removed to make life easier?

    My other option... I think... would be to tap the mirror for power/ground and run two hot wires down to the dash for a kill switch. This only just occurred to me but also has its pros and cons. Teh detectors are Valentine V1 units, I may choose to put in a remote/concealed display later which would be simple with power tapped from the fuse panel (if I can reach it) but would require additional wiring if I tapped the mirror - I'd need the power to/from the mirror/kill switch plus a phone cable for the remote display.

    Advice is very welcome... should I give up on trying to get to the interior fuse panel before I dislocate something or is it really not as bad as it seems? I was thinking I'd tap fuse 33 (20A Radio) or 32 (10A Sync.GPS/Display) for switched power.
     
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  3. gmcv893

    gmcv893 Member

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    So I've been down this road as well. Started with a mirror tap that worked, but over time would "come" out due to vibrations. Started to get to the point where I would be watching the radar to make sure it was still working so I went to an hard wire install done by a professional shop. Probably the best move I've ever made for getting something done correctly. Shop only charged me around $40 which was pennies compared to me having to do an install.

    That being said I couldn't tell you how they got it powered, but regarding the fuse panel it is that difficult to get to. Any local shops that could quote you a price? Also I have a kill switch installed, and the shop did it to the left of the steering wheel as there is room behind that panel. Tried to get them to do it in the empty slot next to the tow button, but there were things behind the panel.
     
  4. peterk9

    peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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  5. thefranchise713

    thefranchise713 Well-Known Member

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    Sync fuse is always live, not switched.

    I ended up tapping the RCM with an add-a-fuse so the RCM remained on it's own circuit. That was the only one I could find that was easily switched. I only had one early failure of the add-a-fuse itself in which both circuits got knocked out--the IPC clued me into an issue by lighting up the airbag tell-tale while the dashcam simultaneously shut down. Replacing the add-a-fuse unit and reconnecting has left all solid ever since.

    Working with your BCM's fuse panel (the under dash one you've indicated) unfortunately requires a contortionist act. No way around it.
     
  6. RhinoQuartz

    RhinoQuartz Elite Explorer

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    Are you looking for wiring and fuse and relay diagrams?
     






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