Glacier help!!-Hit a bump and then no R or D? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Glacier help!!-Hit a bump and then no R or D?

2001ExpSport

Elite Explorer
Joined
July 23, 2000
Messages
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City, State
Chicago, Il
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Sport
Seriously, don't hit any bumps or your tranny will go out on you.

This morning on my way to work I hit a man hole cover that was recessed in the pavement maybe an inch. Stopped at the light and when it turned green....nothing. No reverse, no drive...so I shifted it to 1 and it worked fine. Drove it into a parking lot and checked the linkage, it's ok. Checked for leaks, no leaks. Checked the fluid, fluid is ok. I get back in and shift to drive and it has the urge to move if I rev the motor, but it doesn't go. When I am going about 35-40 it will drive in the D position. I can drive it in 1 and 2, just not D and R from a stop.

Here's where Glacier will give me hell, I drove it to the Ford dealer:censored:

They just tell me, replace or rebuild.....whatever man.:mad:

So what's the deal, why would a bump kill the tranny?

Tranny in question:
5R55E, Ford Mod, Superior VB kit, 126K

Until now, the tranny worked fine.
 



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You put the valve kit in yourself?

-Drew
 












Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....:)
 






Without dropping the pan, I'd check the DTR and all the electrical connections. Maybe a connection is now loose, or the DTR is out of alignment.

Might try to measure the resistance of the solenoids with a multimeter. Maybe the shock damaged a solenoid?
 






I'm going to drop the pan tomorrow and test everything.

Keep the suggestions coming.

What is the DTR?
 






DTR = Digital Transmission Range Sensor. From the Ford CD, mine's a '95 but the application should still be the same.

Transmission Range (TR) Sensor

The TR sensor is transmission-mounted.

The powertrain control module (PCM) monitors the voltage across a series of step-down resistors that correspond to the position of the manual control lever. The PCM uses this information in determining desired gear and EPC pressure.

The TR sensor permits the engine to start only in the PARK and NEUTRAL positions and activates the backup lamps in the REVERSE position.

The TR sensor also sends a signal to the PCM for 4x4 Low-Neutral sense.

It's mounted on the transmission, you'll see the sensor if you look where the shift linkage attaches.

This is just a SWAG on my part. I have absolutely no clue if this would cause your problem or not, but it's something you can check without dropping the pan. Hopefully something just got jarred out of alignment and not broken when you hit that manhole.

Did the Ford dealership say what diagnostics they ran to determine your transmission needed to be rebuilt?
 






They did nothing to it, just a run through the gears and the typical replace or rebuild garbage. I just picked it up and paid them nothing.

I saw the DTR cable yesterday and it was tight, since you described it I know what it is now.

It will be interesting to see if it shifts to 4low since the DTR senses the neutral position required to shift it. I know it shifts to 4high though.

Thanks fo rthe help..

Does the CD show voltages for the solenoids? I would have a clue where to find it in the 5R55E diary, but I know it's there.

If you have time, could you post that data for me?

Thanks,
Matt
 






I don't know much about transmissions, but something similar happened to my brothers car and I know he took it in and they changed the fluid and filter and it was fine for another 40k. Maybe when you hit the bump it jarred something loose? Just a thought.

My sport is looking good now, thanks for the inspiration, now I just need to do something about the front since I just have the plastic cover on. Good luck with the tranny.

-Rich
 






The cable moves the shift lever, the sensor is behind the cable. You should see an electrical connection. Like I said, it's a real guess on my part but it shouldn't hurt anything.

Regarding your solenoids, voltage is not what you want to check. You're looking for resistance. This is from the valve body rebuild diary:

SSA,SSB,SSC,CSS 22-48 ohms
EPC 3.1-5.7 ohms
TCC 8.9-16 ohms
 






They did nothing to it, just a run through the gears and the typical replace or rebuild garbage. I just picked it up and paid them nothing.

Well, that is truly sad. At least they didn't charge you for the "diagnosis".

I saw the DTR cable yesterday and it was tight, since you described it I know what it is now.

It will be interesting to see if it shifts to 4low since the DTR senses the neutral position required to shift it. I know it shifts to 4high though.

The more I think about this, the less I'm inclined to think this has anything to do with your problem. This sensor also tells the PCM you're in park or neutral... If it were broken or misaligned then you wouldn't be able to start your car. Still might be worthwhile to look at, won't cost you anything but time.
 






This sound very similer to what has happened to my Ranger. You feel the kick like it shifted into gear but it won't go anywere or has a barely noticable amount of torque. I also Have no R or D but I do have 1 and 2. If I shift into D and turn O/D off everything works fine except R and O/D unless I turn O/D back on over 40MPH. I have replace the VB and solenoid - same problem. Turn O/D off and see if you get the same results. Let me know if you find a fix.
 












Didn't get a chance to drop the pan, but I did drive it a bit today.

When shifting into R or D it will lurch like it is in gear, but it just slightly inches forward if I rev the engine.

When I get to about 55mph and shift out of 2 it will shift into what i think might be 3rd and then into OD.

If I turn off OD it will move more when at a standstill, but won't drive at hwy speeds.

When it is stopped, it feels as if the fluid is spilling out before it goes to the right places if you know what I mean.
 






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