Adventure trailer build thread.

CDW6212R · February 17, 2019

Put some dish washing liquid in a spray bottle of water. With that you can spray the connections safely and easily. Use liquid thread sealant if any connections are already very tight, but leak. That works better than Teflon tape.

gmanpaint · February 18, 2019

If anybody is needing a better way to secure & store tools, or small loose items in their RV's or off road rigs, this place has what you need. Granted they are a bit pricey, but they are field tested, strong, durable, and come with a lifetime warranty on everything they make, right here in the good ole USA.

SW Explorer video on the Yorktown mechanics bag.

Check out all the Atlas46 bag products in the link below:

Atlas 46 | products

gmanpaint · February 20, 2019

One more Overland/Offroad product site to share. Blueridgeoverlandgear.com

I already have a Molle system on the backs of the tow rigs seats, and have finally found a good supplier for Molle style gear, to add to the them, along with some places inside the trailer. Insides of doors, and upper shelf wall for example.

Once you have a Molle setup for the mount point, you now have a variety of things you can hang up for easy storage access.

You can add the Molle back mount to most seats. Then choose what combo of bags/gear to add to it.

Turdle · February 21, 2019

I like the compartments, but right now my with back seats folded down, back seat headrests mash into my seat back. A shorter version would be perfect.

The tool pouches are pretty cool. I showed em to the missus and nodded toward her sewing room.

gmanpaint · February 21, 2019

With the Molle bags attached to the backs of the front seats, and wanting to fold the rear seats, I would just tilt the front seat forward enough to let the rear rest fully, then bring the front seat back to normal. Just wouldn't be able to have any bags so low that they would interfere with the rears. Plenty of room mid-high for them. With the trailer, I won't need the rears folded down much at all anymore.

If the seats are going to be down for the duration of a trip, then you can just add the bags after the seat is down. They are removable easy enough, and they even have velcro bags.

Aren't the rear head rests removable?

JungleSkunk · February 21, 2019

Super nice trailer build. I am looking to put one together this summer and will have to read the entire thread for more ideas! I really like the smittybuilt scout design and am going to build my own version.

Smittybuilt also makes a set of these MOLLE seat covers. I really like the design and rarely have my rear seats in the "sit" position and keep them folded away for more storage. I will have to order a set!

gmanpaint · February 21, 2019

Thanks for the share!

I have seen the Smittybuilt versions, but would rather buy from somewhere else if available. Just my personal preference. My seat covers have the Molle loops built in them, but are a full waterproof cover. I don't think Smittybuilt covers will work for electric seats, as they use the side wraps to hold them on to the base, and the seats have to move on the slides freely. I could be wrong, but that's how I remember them, when I looked. If I'm wrong, then heck yeah, give them a try!

Edit: I like how China decided to use an American flag on them covers. Marketing at it's finest! lol

We also have to keep in mind that not everybody is using a 1st or 2nd gen Explorer. The Molle system is for all vehicles, and not all will have the same work around's or issues to deal with. Short people don't bring the seats all the way back like taller people do either. I think these would be great for Ext cab Rangers/pickups, Sport Trac's, and the larger 3rd+ gen Ex's.

I plan on using the Molle bags for first aid kits, small fire extinguisher, Maps, personal ditty bag items, tire air down tools, Binoculars, and more.

JungleSkunk · February 21, 2019

The Molle seat covers is a great Idea and have seen multiple version by different companies. I think these pictures are actually of the jeep model but they do make a "universal" style that does not interfere with the electric seat controls ect.

These would work great in my application, as mentioned I rarely use my rear seats and I am 6'1" so the seat is ALWAYS as far back as it can go :bounce:

But I can see where they might interfere with rear passengers ect in other models or people who actually use the rear seats! LOL

gmanpaint · February 25, 2019

No build updates of late. No extra $$ for this thing lately. I still have to do something on it, as sitting idle drives me nuts.

I decided to mess around with the 7 pin wiring yesterday, only to discover that the pin out locations on the connectors are different, like way different. Same brand, diff pin outs. What the French? Have to replace the vehicle side if I can find a matching pin out. If I can't find one, I have to replace the trailer side, as all the wires was cut to fit tight inside the junction box to the posts.

I also discovered that I wired all 6 of the marker lights wrong. I'm so used to black being ground, that's how I used them. Wrong! White is ground, black is hot. I bought the LED markers from a trailer shop that had them in bins, not packaged, so no instructions. I went and bought a couple in a package, and after reading the back, it hit me like brick. Trailer wiring is different. lol Won't be too big a deal to change them around, but I just hate going backwards. Better now than later I suppose. Damn Newb's.

I'm also thinking of adding a relay to the vehicle's reverse light harness, for the big LED trailer back up light pods. With another power supply from the battery, the lights will have full power, and not sharing with the vehicles supply. Using the vehicle lights hot wire, to switch the relay on, should do it to it. I think.

Edit: Re-wired all the Marker Led's, and the tag light too! Yep, even had that one bass akwards. Threw a 12v power source to them, and they all work in conjunction with the tails.

CDW6212R · February 25, 2019

That's good thinking. The current running through all of the wiring, connectors, switches etc, does wear it all out. Switches and control modules are the big items to worry about, but the wiring and connectors are big too. My tail light connectors are in rough shape, the outer bulb connectors are replaceable, but the inner connector is not. Running my lights full time has made it worse for sure, and LED's didn't solve my tail lights issue yet.

So add relays to any high current circuits if you can, even at this age it helps. My old 91 Lincoln has a "bad" air conditioner module(the EATC), the compressor stopped coming on(or did for 20-40 seconds before quitting). I traced wiring and everything checked out. The current was there, but through the pressure sensors, and the WOT relay, it wasn't enough to power the compressor. I simply cut the wire near the WOT relay, and installed a relay, triggered with the old wire. Now it works right, and I don't have to replace(or repair) the EATC unit.

Keep at it, make everything idiot proof, and last longer too.

gmanpaint · February 25, 2019

These LED lights aren't a high current per say, but they are large units with 20 led diodes in them. I'm guessing they will use more power than the stock reverse lamps wired into the vehicle tho. The rigs reverse light's have been swapped to LED bulbs too, and are way brighter than the stock style, but not sure that they draw more power or not.

I talked a tech rep for Hopkins trailer, and found out the trailer harness I have is an older model with weird wiring pin outs. I am replacing it with a newer RV standard style. They gave me the proper part number that matches the vehicle side exactly. I checked it out, and the price for it. 2 steps back, but...

I continued researching this part with other brands, and find a HD cold weather silicone jacket style that also has better 10 awg wire for the brakes. Almost all others are a 12 awg. Ground & charge wires are a 10 awg, with the rest being 14 awg. The flexible jacket and hard rubber connector beats the PVC jacket and plastic connector housings by far. The wire colors differ a little for standard use, but that is easily worked with, as the pin outs are the same as the vehicle side I have. Best part is I found this version on Etrailer.com for the same price as the cheaper Hopkins plastic harness. 1 step forward. Loves me some etrailer.com sometimes.

CDW6212R · February 25, 2019

Thanks, I discarded my old trailer harness last December when I was rear ended. The trailer hitch had to come off, being against both spring perches. When I removed the trailer harness, I decided it was too brittle and old. I've wanted a better connector for a trailer anyway, one with both common connections in it. I have a Hidden Hitch from my Mercury to swap on instead, it should be better below the bumper.

I'll look at the etrailer.com soon for a 98-01 harness and the connection end/cover.

gmanpaint · March 3, 2019

Crazy winter storm has me cooped up inside today. What do I do when I can't work outside? I research online for hours. Big mistake!!

I found what I want to replace the current weak sauce 6" plastic wheeled trailer jack. I have to save up for this bad boy, and will have to make a weld on mounting plate for it to work on this trailer, but OMG!! Leave it to the Aussies once again for Total bad ass-ness. Fully adjustable, removable crank handle, and strong enough to winch the trailer itself, ON A TRAIL from the tongue.

Website with video for this jack.

XO750 Black Edition Trailer Jack

I think I need to stay off any AUS offroad sites, or just move there.

traveler · March 4, 2019

Wow... That is sturdy. But 300 bucks!?

gmanpaint · March 4, 2019

Yeah, but just think what it would be like off pavement, and on these weak standard plastic wheel Jack's. The one I have now is about $80, and isn't 1/10 as sturdy/ useable as that xo.The problem with the normal single plastic wheel jacks is, when they swivel on uneven ground, they will fold over onto themselves. Once the bracket is bent or the wheel itself is broken, your screwed, and your not moving it. Same thing happens with the pneumatic wheels, as the sidewalls fold with the weight.

Also why I said I have to save for it. Lol

Mbrooks420 · March 4, 2019

Would you be better off with a standard camper style foot, rather than a wheel?

BKennedy · March 4, 2019

You could purchase a cheaper square jack and fab a slider plate for the base. It would be cheaper, and not have to be as strong because it would slide across the ground instead of digging. I thought that was a crazy price until I priced out a stowe-able 10,000 pound jack. It was $200, then you would need to fab a very sturdy wheel, then.... it would cost about the same. My slider jack would be around $100.

gmanpaint · March 4, 2019

There are presently two weld mount Jack's installed up front. One quick drop, quick change wheel to flat base, and one flat base.

I Want the XO wheel Jack for Maneuverability, on or off pavement, and that XO with dual wheels will also help move this thing around. It's not that easy to move without lifting the front up higher than level. Right now, the cabin is empty, and the tongue is loaded, so I know that is mostly why.

Sliding the flat plate will kinda work, but wont work well in any ruts, soft sand, or bigger rocks to get over on a trail. Skip to about 1:45 on this video, and you can see what I mean.

If for some reason, I had to turn around on a skinny trail, and unhook the trailer to do so, turning the trailer back around 180* would be simple with this off road wheeled jack.

Yes, it is 3 times as much, but it is also peace of mind, and easier to operate overall. Compared to the grand scheme of costs on this trailer, trust me, it's not anything outrageous.

The items on this page, are all wish list items (there is more than these!). It will be sometime before any of them become a reality. The links are for me just as much as anybody else. lol

Been making my Schematics for the rear build lately (no funds currently for this). That is the next major project, and that alone will take me quite a while to accomplish. Turning out to be pretty intricate, but nothing says Kill, like Overkill.

gmanpaint · March 22, 2019

Just cuz I'm bored....

BKennedy · March 22, 2019

Trailer flexed better than the 4Runner that was pulling it.

Adventure trailer build thread.

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