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Gotta LOVE them Mustang drivers

Discussion in 'Modified 1991-1994 Explorers' started by Backwoods "X", June 30, 2011.

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    1. Backwoods "X"

      Backwoods "X" Active Member

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      Okay. My wife has finally given me permission to "lightly" modify our new to us 94 X. After digging around on here for quite some time, I decided to go and see about finding the basic parts for "waking up" a 4.0. I chased down a friend of mine that is constantly upgrading his old fox body 'stang, and asked him if he had any of the old engine parts left. Sure enough, he did.... thrown in the back of an S10 :rolleyes: . Aw, well. With a price agreed upon of "get that crap outta my truck", I happily, nay, gleefully started throwing the parts into my old BII and hauled for home before Charles could figure out that he had just made my summer! So, that being said, I have the following parts going on the "X" this weekend: 'Stang MAF housing and cold air filter (Blue colored) maybe the throttle body, IF it will work... Anybody have any insight on this BEFORE I hack up any thing that I DO NOT need to) The rest of the stuff is going on the 331 powered '84 Ranger 4wd, as the heads that were in the back of the S10 are a set of cast iron (but FREE) GT40s, with a matching intake, and factory "shorty" style manifolds. So, I still have a list of things to get, but, I am that much more ahead ( yeah, there is a M5 waiting for the A4LD to dump... first hiccup and it is GONE. I AIN'T playin' with that stupid thing) :D He is also going to go see if his brother has any " junk stock stuff" that I can get.
       
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    3. 94Eddie

      94Eddie Active Member

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      I am not sure if you are using the Mustang MAF meter or just the housing. If you are using the meter then make sure it matches up to the stock fuel injectors or use the injectors from the Mustang engine if it doesn't if you are using the stock computer. The computer needs the MAF curve to match the injector size or it won't run right, if at all.

      Save all your old parts. You never know when you might want to take it back to stock condition.
       
    4. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      You can use the mustang MAF housing, use the 4.0 sensor part.

      nice score on the GT40 heads.
       
    5. Backwoods "X"

      Backwoods "X" Active Member

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      I am just going to use the MAF housing with the 4.0 electronics. The injector upgrades will come later on, along with other "tinkerings" as I get to feeling more trusting towards the 4.0. I am used to the ancient 2.8 and V8s' so the 4.0 has to show me that it is worth "monkeying" with ( yeah, I know that the 2.8 is not a powerhouse, but, at least when it rattles, it is simply wanting some oil added to the crankcase, not shaking the lifters apart) On with the researching and installing :salute: ( stupid dial up, so pictures are going to be in short supply, but, most of what I am going to be doing as allready been done, I think.)
       
    6. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      Are you referring to the Ford 2.8 or Chevy 2.8?

      I've had both, and neither one were a spectacular engine.
       
    7. Backwoods "X"

      Backwoods "X" Active Member

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      You actually thought that I was not

      referring to the ancient fore father of the 4.0, the Ford 2.8? The only uses that I have found for the Garbage Motors version is either a light duty boat anchor, or, when I can find it, a donor for the TBI system to replace the craptastic feed-back carb set up that Ford used on the Cologne engine. While the Cologne engine is NO where near a hot rod engine, it IS very hard to beat for lasting durability. The one in my 06/83 build BII finally died this spring, sort of... It still runs, but, it is running on mostly 3-4 cylinders. It will still start, but it would really rather not, if it can get away with it. Does the 4.0 hold up this well after almost 400,000 miles?
       
    8. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      I am 200 miles away from 200k, MY only problem is needing to replace the clutch. So I think as long as you maintain the 4.0 you're good.

      The BIG SECRET... don't neglect the cooling system. As told to me by a mechanic... don't let the motor get hot.

      Garbage Motors...hahahaha

      craptasic carb.... yeah don't remind me.... I had an 83 ranger, rebuilt the carb and while tuning the carb on the truck, the crank pulley decided to walk out from under the truck and up my buddies leg. 3 trips to the only junkyard that had one with no results... I shelled out $150 for a new one from ford. Nearest I can figure the 2.8 crank pulleys were a one year specific item 83-85 each having their own size.

      I was told the 2.8 was a german motor. And I believe the forefather to the 4.0 is the 2.9 v6.
       
    9. Nedwreck

      Nedwreck Active Member

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    10. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      wow that was a good read... thanks for the ed-u-ma-ka-shun.... hahaha

      Atleast I wasn't too far off, I had said 2.8 was German, turns out all of them are.
       
    11. Backwoods "X"

      Backwoods "X" Active Member

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      So, the 4.0 "should" be able to last for a really long time then, with proper maintenance. Good to hear, as the "X" is all ready being brought up to speed on a service schedule so that I have a reference point for when things were done, need done, etc...

      Side note/question here: How well does the 4.0 handle being force-fed/boosted? I have some extra parts from a J**p 4.0 stroked to a 4.9 (!) turbo project... :bdrunk: + :hammer: + :burnout: = :eek: WHAT A RUSH!!!
       
    12. mr cribb

      mr cribb US Army Retired Elite Explorer

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      The three things I know about the explorer:
      1) The 4.0 is pathetically slow
      2) early models suffered greatly from cracked heads. This was supposedly fixed in 93.
      3) the auto trans is CRAP, no matter how many times you rebuild it, it still craps out.

      I have no idea about forced induction on these.

      Pretty much as long as the cooling system is serviced by that I mean everything (from t-stat to radiator), you really shouldn't have too many issues, unless you bought it with them.

      The 1st gen explorer heater core was probably the EASIEST thing I've ever changed in an automobile. This is just FYI on the chance your heat ever stops.
       
    13. Backwoods "X"

      Backwoods "X" Active Member

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      Yeah, the cooling system is getting a good do-over right out of the gate: new 2 core rad. from another 94 model, new hoses ( including heater ), T-stat, and heater core, plus a really good back flushing through the engine while I have the parts off and out of the way. I agree on the heater core being extremely easy to change on the early RBVs': I have bet people $$ that I can change one out before they finish smoking a cigarette. Suckers, everytime.

      The A4LD is staying until the first hiccup, and then it is GONE!!!! I allready have a M5 from a 98 Ranger that was rebuilt1st gen Ranger pedals,hydraulics for it, along with the flywheel/clutch kit since I was going to put the M5 in my 83 Ranger when it blew the old T-K 4 out, but, I decided to 331/ NP 435/D20 the Ranger instead, so the "X" is going to get the M5 instead.
       
      Last edited: July 5, 2011

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