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Has my 93 been converted to r134a?

Discussion in 'Modified 1991-1994 Explorers' started by jd92887, July 24, 2011.

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    1. jd92887

      jd92887 Active Member

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      I looked at one of the caps for the air conditioner, and it looks like it has been converted to r134a. Where is the other one located? And does anyone know if mine takes r134a? Where should I look for a leak? And how much r134a is needed?
      Sorry for all the questions

      [​IMG]
      http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk278/jmac92887/23d7b7c1.jpg
       
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    3. jd92887

      jd92887 Active Member

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      Does anyone know?
       
    4. Nedwreck

      Nedwreck Active Member

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      That does appear to be a R134a connector.

      The other connector (the high pressure one) is on the drivers side, front, close to the radiator cap. look for the line coming from the AC compressor that runs the drivers side forward towards the grill, it should have a red cap and a "push lock" fitting that is slightly different than the other one.

      the old R12 fittings use threads, R134a is "push lock".
       
    5. Nedwreck

      Nedwreck Active Member

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      Leaks *can* be a real bugger to find btw.

      If they used dye when it was charged last time, I think a small blacklight bulb will make the dye "glow". Other options (if there's still any charge in there) is a bottle of soapy water (look for "bubbles") to put on all the lines and connectors etc...

      Sometimes you can just add a can of r134a and listen for leaks. That is not the favorite method, but it's one way to do it. You'll want to do it in a quiet area, and that assumes its a kinda big leak.

      Sadly there's really so many variables here I can't even begin to write it all out. The AC section of the forum has some pointers, and google searches may help. Youtube may have some helpful videos too.
       
    6. jd92887

      jd92887 Active Member

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      just looked at the other fitting, and it has a black cap, when i take it off there is something that comes out. dont really know it is like a metal pin.
       
    7. tweakedlogic

      tweakedlogic Active Member

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      That is a schrader valve. It is the valve that allows you to add or remove the refrigerant. If it was loose enough to just fall out then the pipe might be damaged. Use a schrader valve tool for tires and tighten it back down. Maybe it will work, but most likely you will have to replace the pipe.
       
    8. jd92887

      jd92887 Active Member

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      Do I put the refrigerant in both the valve or just one?
       
    9. Nedwreck

      Nedwreck Active Member

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      You can just fill it from the low side. (the passenger side one)

      .

      However, if you lost all your charge and it's been open where air can get in the AC system, it flat out won't work right until the system is at least pumped down (the air removed).

      I didn't want to hear it myself, because of the cost, but really and truly you will be VERY well served to go ahead and do whatever needs done now, and have it properly evacuated then charged.
       
    10. tweakedlogic

      tweakedlogic Active Member

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      Nedwreck is right, although he failed to mention moisture. I should have thought to mention that in my earlier post.

      The A/C dryer absorbs moisture quickly. This is the aluminum cylinder right in front of the evaporator enclosure on the passenger side. If it has been open to air for a long time it has most likely become saturated and will have to be replaced. If it hasn't been that long you can pull a vacuum and then charge it. It is best to pull vacuum before charging anyway.

      If you want to do this yourself, I recommend replacing the dryer, the orifice tube (filter), the schrader valve for the low side, and the high side line. Then borrow or rent a vacuum pump and pull a vacuum for at least 15 minutes. Longer if you think there is moisture elsewhere in the system. Then you can charge it.

      The orifice tube is in a 5/8" line going to the evaporator, it should be on the evaporator side when you open the connector.
      If you don't want to do it, or can't find a pump, then you can replace the things that need it, then take to a shop to pull vacuum and charge it. This last one is probably the best option.

      If your compressor has ever locked up, then you have replace everything and make sure there are no particles in the system. You will know when you replace the orifice tube. Because those particles will ruin your compressor.

      Oh yeah, to fully charge the system from vacuum takes 32 oz refrigerant and 4 oz oil (I think it 4 oz).
      Good luck.
       
    11. Nedwreck

      Nedwreck Active Member

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    12. tweakedlogic

      tweakedlogic Active Member

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      I got my numbers from All Data, which it an online manual for nearly every vehicle. I'm not sure on the oil, but the refrigerant I am positive of because i was surprised. I may have used 4 oz oil because I think my compressor had oil in it already from the factory. 24 ounces sounds more reasonable, but I triple checked All Data using different year Explorers and they were all the same. Maybe All Data is wrong, but my A/C blows cold, 44*F on max a/c in the center vent (IIRC). If it were over charged it wouldn't blow very cold.
       
    13. Nedwreck

      Nedwreck Active Member

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      Wow thank you tweakedlogic. great stuff. I might be wrong about the charge in mine, 24 sounded really familiar. 6-7 oz. oil I do remember though.. I'll stop by and check with a place today, the right info is important. :)
       
    14. 4x4junkie

      4x4junkie Well-Known Member

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      My factory Ford dealer service manual (1994) calls for 26oz of R-134a freon + 7 oz compressor oil meeting Ford spec WSH-M1C231-B (or PAG-46) for the Explorer (Ranger is 22oz freon + 7oz oil).

      My 1990 Bronco II however uses 32 oz freon + 10 oz oil (PAG-46 if retrofitted to R-134a).

      Though if there's any doubt, you can always just look right on the top or side of your evaporator housing, there should be a sticker there telling you how much freon it takes. If it says R-134a, then there should be no doubt what type to use also ;)

      FWIW, it was midway through the 1994 model the switch was made to R-134a (and yes, that is a R-134a connection in the pic at top).
       

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