HELP!! Grinding noise coming from front end.

[imq707s]

I have a 97 Mountaineer with the 5.0 motor and AWD. I have noticed a grinding noise coming from the front of the truck when I turn or brake at slow speeds (under 20mph). I was told that that's a common problem for a truck with 120,000 miles on it and that I should replace the front wheel bearings. Well.....I went out and spend $400 on two new bearing hub assemblys...didn't fix the problem. :fire: This noise is a horrible grinding noise, I'm affraid that if I don't fix it fast something is going to get seriously damaged.

The front brake pads have been on for a while, but still look great. Is it possible that the brake pads are making that noise? What else could it be? I can't think of anything else that would make that noise....only when I brake or turn at slow speeds. Could it have anything to do with the front differential? High speed turning and brakeing is quite.

HELP!!

 

[CDW6212R]

I had a noise two years ago on Christmas Day. I thought the noise was from the left front, so I changed the left hub and axle. My noise was still there, so I lifted it up and ran it in the air. Then I could tell that it was my front driveshaft. I pulled the shaft to be sure.

My noise was constant, so I bet yours is an axle. You should be able to tell by hand. Good luck,
DonW

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

A lot of us have had problems with the front driveshaft CV joint where it couples to the T-case.

Your problem sounds more like an CV axle halfshaft. You can get new or reman units from any autoparts store, install isn't that bad.

 

[Ranger Al]

How would I know which shaft is bad? It is seem like if I lift the truck up on 4 wheels and turn it, it doesn't make any noise. I too got my axles off a 98 Mt...

 

[CDW6212R]

According to how loud you have suggested it is, I would believe that it could be decided easily. Drive it carefully, while listening out of the window, from each side, separately.

If there is some significant noise, you should hear it louder on the bad side.
Then make plans to be able to get the shaft fast, and start to disassemble that side.
When you pull the hub away, hopefully then you will be able to confirm that that is the CV joint which is bad.

Consult with someone knowledgeable locally there whom you trust, to agree that this is the most likely solution. Good luck,
DonW

 

[imq707s]

I jacked the front and back of my truck off of the ground, then started it up and put in in drive. With all four tires spinning I turned the front wheel all the way to the left then the right. It was quiet as can be.....no grinding noise what so ever. If it was one of the CV joints wouldn't I be able to hear it? Is it possible for the front brakes to make that bad of a noise even though the pads are in great shape?

 

[Ranger Al]

I think I got it figured. I sprayed silicone around the CV axles where it go into the hub assembly. The noise goes away! I am thinking it need to be lube with thin layer of grease. I'll have to take it apart and give it alittle grease around the spline and the area where it touches the bearing.

DW, thanksor the respond. The grease was installed at the tip of the pads. The back of the pads was coated with those sticky stuff to prevent the brake from rattle.

I'll post my result of the grease when I grease the axles.

Al

 

[CDW6212R]

imq707s, I would hope to find a second person to help locate the sound. If you still can't find the source, and unless you have new pads, I'd install new pads if it's not to much too much trouble. Clean or turn the rotors also.
For all brake jobs, avoid pads that require anti-squeak lube. The pads which come with an anti-squeak plate attached to the back are the best, and worth the cost.

I have 35k on my current pads, made by EBC($70). They are about 60% used, and I am hard on brakes. Good luck,
DonW

 

[Ranger Al]

Took the hubs loose and greased the splines and the contact point to the bearing. The noise go way! Chilton recommended you replace the axles nuts once ou removed it off the axles. I personally think a drop of "lock tight" will prevent the nuts from backing out.

Don, evey brake shops uses the anti-squeak on the brake they installed. My F-150 even have the metal backing plate and they recommended using the ant-rattle stuff. The only I haven't try using the anti-squeak is my BMW motorcycle, cause it is the original pads from BMW. After 3K miles I wished I used the stuff, you could hear me a block away when I am coming to the stop sign!

Thats what I do on my Christmas day! It costed me almost an hour and lots of satifactory.

 

[Garth]

Check out the ball joints also.

 

[Ranger Al]

Garth, you are perfectly correct! I got those little niddle type that attach to the grease pump. I pumped lots of grease from the edge of the rubber cover and it does seem to make a different as well. They were almost completly dried!

 

[Mountaineer97TM]

Hello Guys. I am about to replace my front left hub tomorrow. The shop told me that my hub was bad so now I am replacing it. What exact tool do I need to take the hub off. I went to an Advance Auto Parts near me and got a tool I think will work but not sure. Also what grease did you use to lube the axle?? Last question is are u suppose to change the bolts or what?

 

[CDW6212R]

I did my left axle and hub two years ago. The bearings are sealed, no grease required. The three bolts in the backside of the spindle hold it in. They may be extremely tight. Start out with a breaker bar and, I believe, a 15mm socket. I had to unbolt the upper ball joint to pull my axle, but I believe that you will also have to unbolt the upper joint to get the axle out of the hub. Good luck,
DonW

 

[Mountaineer97TM]

Thanks. I will let u know how it goes tomorrow. I am think about doing cv joiny too.

 

[CDW6212R]

Todd, I changed both because I wasn't sure where my noise was coming from. The rebuilt axle wasn't much more. My noise turned out to be the front driveshaft CV joint. I couldn't tell for sure until I got it up in the air, in gear. Bad CV joints don't make much noise unless they are under a significant load. I could barely hear anything while listening right under the CV joint. Good luck, night.
Don

 

[Mountaineer97TM]

Thanks. I think I am just going to do the hub. When I had my car in for service when the water pump froze, the guy told me the hub was bad. I am doing it myself tomorrow. Did u have to deal with a seal in the back. I got go get one tomorrow. Already have the hub tho.

 

[CDW6212R]

There is a "seal", basically a dust ring. I was careful and reused mine. They aren't the critical kind of seal like the older Ford front spindle axle seal. Recall that the bearings are sealed. Night,
DW

 

[Ranger Al]

you'll need a 1 1/4 socket to remove the axle nut. I got my hubs at Pepboys for $149.99, they price match Carquest and offer lifetime warranty on the bearing hub. I would call around for the best price and go with whoever offer a better price and warranty or price match it. They are all made from the same company (TIMKEN), Ford even get their from Timken.

I just used the bearing grease to grease the splines, make sure you do not over grease. As stated before, I reuse my old nuts but put couple drops of "lock tight" onto it. Chilton recommended to use net nuts, so you could make decision on that. I think Pep boys has it for $8 each.

Good luck

Al

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

I've taken the hubs off on my truck and on Izackary's truck, and reused the old sprindle nuts without incident.

None of the dealers around me stock the nuts, all the guys say the Ford/Mercury techs just reuse them. Locktite is a good idea.

 

[imq707s]

Anyone figured out a way to pull the bearings out of the hub assembly and install new bearings? There has got to be a way to do it , even though it might be a pain in the butt.