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Help with my torsion adjustment

essendon22

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 19, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Tampa, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Adrenalin 4x4
After my BL and Shackles were put on, there was a pretty noticeable rake to my truck. Measurements for both sides are as follows:
Front fender to tire 7.5 / to ground 39.5
Rear fender to tire 9.5 / to ground 41.5
So there is exactly a 2" difference.

24e9pcn.jpg


I actually kind of like it, but the problem is the front tires were rubbing. I trimmed out the plastic molding that they were hitting, only to find there was some sheet metal behind the plastic that they would now be hitting, causing me to lose most of my turning radius.

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That is when I decided to adjust the torsion bars 2". Tried it first on the ground, and then jacked it up, but the bolts wouldn't budge (even after days of spraying lubricant on them). I did get them to turn a bit the wrong way though. Took it to the shop and low and behold they say they wont budge because they are maxed out already. Now, I know that a TT was not done on this truck before I bought it, so I'm wondering how this is possible. The control arms don't even look that angled to me.

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I'm also a little concerned because even though I know you aren't supposed to go over 2" for the 4x4, I don't know how much they normally adjust (ie do they normally go up to 3" and you should only do 2"). I don't have a previous measurement since they are maxed out already. However I've had the truck for 3.5 years. Wouldn't my CV's have worn out by now if they were over adjusted? I read in other posts here that you can get longer torsion bolts, but I don't know how I would have ones that were too short to begin with?

Anyway, I need some ideas on how to get these tires to clear this metal. I don't think trimming it down is a possibility since there is some sort of bolt there. I think if I could get this thing leveled out it would take care of it, I'm just at a loss as to how to get it there.
 



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Anyway, I need some ideas on how to get these tires to clear this metal. I don't think trimming it down is a possibility since there is some sort of bolt there. I think if I could get this thing leveled out it would take care of it, I'm just at a loss as to how to get it there.
Jack one up corner, remove the wheel, introduce Mr. Sledge to Mr. Body, install wheel. Repeat for other side.

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could need new torsion bars and thats why its sagging so much. but it seems you may need spacers aswell.

I do however enjoy a good session with a sledge,makes me all tingly inside
 






Take a sawzall to it and cut the out, I like alot of other have already. Don't buy spacers because that will make it worse by pushing the tires out further thus making them rub even more when turned.
 






LOL I love Mr Sledge meeting Mr Body. Unfortunately I don't think Mr Arm Muscle is big enough to make a dent! I kinda figured the spacers would do that. Guess if that bolt is nothing important I can cut it out. Would it be better to look into relpacing the torsion bars? I certainly don't want the term "worn out" applied to anything on my baby =-) Can't be a good thing if they are. Just tell me to do a SAS already haha.. After driving around in it for a week I'm already used to it and want more lift.
 






For right now I would just buy some longer TB bolts from Todd Z. at ZabteckTechnology.com, install them and lift it up some more. Judging from the angle of the CV axles, tie rod ends you have a good 1"-1.5" lift to go up more and still be safe. They look to be pretty level.

You could buy new Torsion Bars but it's not cheap at all between the cost of the Bars, removal and installation, alignment after new parts.

I'll be the first to say it, "Do a SAS, SOA already, lol."

I know I need to replace my TB and leafsprings because they are dead from years of towing, hauling and offroading.

I have longer TB bolts and plan on installing them whenever I get a break in the weather to do so and can get my truck realigned afterwards (free with the one year alignment I already have with GoodYear).

Hopefully in the next couple years I can do my SAS, SOA and get rid of this IFS setup. Things keep coming up pushing it back .
 






The sheet metal for the body isn't all that strong. A 5 lb hammer beats it into submission with little effort and a sawzall cuts through it like nothing; it just lid right through it. If longer torsion bolts and a little more twist don't take care of it, don't be afraid to start beating and cutting.

I wouldn't recommend spacers. I think spacers are a reason many people have had to trim so much. I also think low backspacing is why others running 35s have had to cut so much. I haven't had to trim as much as was thought would be necessary because everyone else on 35s has run 3.75" backspacing and I added an extra .5" and the only rubbing I have been able to get so far is when the back of the front wheel hits at the very top of the wheel well at full compression. Don't think there's really any fix to that besides completely removing the plastic. Not that big a deal and it's not like I'm doing 55 mph when that happens. Point being, moving the front wheels out seems to cause more rubbing than it prevents. No to spacers on 33s or larger, IMO.

Your sway bar looks different than mine. What are those brackets? :scratch:
 












Not those. lol. No steady job and helping out family members keeps my funds low.

Just cut, trim where needed and install longer tb bolts for now.
 






Just cut, trim where needed and install longer tb bolts for now.

Agree. Then you can just throw a solid axle under it when you get a chance.
 






Lol.
 






go with the sawzall for route, replacing your torsion bars is a pretty damn big job. i owuldnt get into it unless your were sure they needed replacement.
 






undo the plastic, pull it out of the way, and get the angle grinder going, make it look like this, put the plastic back,
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Thanks guys. I'm gonna be grindin some metal! Will probably get the longer bolts too since they are cheap. Sounds like a much better route than the cost of new bars. Thanks for the pic Corkey!

Offtrac, that isn't the sway bar. I'm not really sure what that silver thing is. Runs all over the place, but the sway bar is above that. Can't see it from the angle of my pic.
 






You don't have to cut as much as Corley did, the wheelwells on the ST are bigger then the Ex. You shouldn't need to cut any of the actual fender, just the pinch weld section that has two bolts (only cut about a half inch past the first bolt. Gotta post a better picture of the mystery silver piece so we can figure out what it is. Theres snowing really hard, 21 degrees out and a good 5"'s of snow on the ground so I'm not going to look under mine right now, lol.
 






Thanks for the heads up. Got out there and figured it out. It's part of the power steering. One line goes up to the fluid reservoir and the other goes into the steering column.

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That's way different than mine. And I don't see a power steering cooler. Still confused.
 






there is no cooler that is a bypass put there instead,,
 






there is no cooler that is a bypass put there instead,,

Ooooh, new to me. :banghead:

I thought there may be some kind of bypass (didn't know to call it that, though) and started to look up what it might do and how it does it. Thanks.

Anybody know if this is OEM or if somebody added the bypass?
 



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Now I'm curious! My Trac is a freak? haha I've never heard of a power steering cooler. Transmission sure, but I know where that is. If it's a bypass, what's it bypassing? I've tried to search for diagrams online but this is the only thing I ran across that even looked similar

fkpndc.jpg


Something about a "hydroboost" that combines the power steering and brake system. That pic is for a Superduty. Maybe I somehow have this? Can't believe it wouldn't be OEM though. When I bought the truck 3.5 years ago it only had 19K miles on it, and hadn't had so much as a wind deflector added to it.

I'm gonna start crawling under ST's at the mall. I love a good mystery.
 






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