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How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by High_Order1, August 27, 2007.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. jpoprock

    jpoprock Active Member

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    City, State:
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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2002 Explorer Limited
    Can someone help me figure out how to go about getting some new bolts? What do you do?? Call a dealer and tell them what you need? Is there any way to NOT call the dealer and get the same exact thing?

    For instance, I lost a brake caliper bracket bolt last night after changing my front brakes and rotor a few weeks ago. I didn't get the left side tight enough and a bolt backed itself out. Luckily I was able to get it repaired first thing this morning. But last night I tried to do some research on the bolt size here in the forum and found some inconsistent information. Some say it's a 15mm 1/2" bolt, others say it's an 18mm 1/2 bolt. I can't believe that it's a 1/2" bolt at all because that seems too short. But perhaps it was. I didn't ask, but the tire shop got it fixed and torqued nice and tight.

    Tie-Rod's are another part that seem to vary in thickness. Mine is 31mm, but not every 02 Explorer is 31mm I don't think.

    My point is... sometimes the specs aren't the same for everyone. Not sure why, but it's true. So sure as hell someone will say they are 18mm 2 1/2" bolts, I purchase 6 of 'em, and they turn out being 16mm 2" bolts, and I become stranded at home for days. DOH!

    Thanks!

    J
     
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  3. SyberTiger

    SyberTiger Active Member

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    City, State:
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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2002 Limited 4x4 4.6L
    Sadly, what I've discovered is that even when you go to a dealer and he pulls up your vehicle on the computer it is not all that uncommon for there to be a discrepancy between what is shown in the computer and what is actually in your vehicle.

    We all know that production run to production run depending on the date of the build there could be slight differences but damn if sometimes it seems like they run out of one type of bolt or widget so they find something else to use until their supplier delivers new parts. My big gripe about that is at least document it somewhere in the system so that when it comes time for parts I don't have to be told the part I need for my Exploder isn't in the Exploder database but rather it's a Mustang component.

    The differences in hub nut size comes to mind. Seems like there are three or more different sizes reported for a 2002 build.
     
  4. Argentimage

    Argentimage Active Member

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    is the hub seller still around? potroast PM mail box is full....
     
  5. MerkurRS

    MerkurRS New Member

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    I think they missed the "Tommy Boy" reference here.....:D


    BTW- I just did mine, after jacking up the truck, pulling the caliper and rotor off (ordering new rotors on Advanceauto.com to replace the rusted and grooved ones), and back to the garage- swapping one bearing took about 30 minutes max.
    One point I did not see here.....wire brush the threads on the axle shaft, before you take the nut off, while you take the nut off and again before re-assembly. That would totally suck if you screw up the threads and have to replace the whole shaft.
    Turn the axle nut out a few times, then back in a little to wire brush the threads. Do this several times until you get your nut off. Also, clean all surfaces before re-assembly too. My hub had a thin coat of silicone sealer on it's surfaces- probably helped keep rust away-- so I repeated it.
    All in all- very simple front job!!!
    Now....the rear bearings......
     
  6. amurray25

    amurray25 New Member

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    It's almost a year too late for jpoprock but for the rest of us, the 18mm (for a 2005) bolt that holds the brake caliper to the bracket is definitely not a 1/2" bolt. The bolt is slightly shorter than a bic pen top. Apologies, I have no tape and a bad eyeballing it tool. I pulled this bolt out after I had one on the driver side back out on me on the way home AND after I went to O'Reilly's to no avail. Also, the ford part number I could find was 2027 but the website doesn't really specify the size of the bolt. I'm headed to a place in a few that does nothing but nuts and bolts. Should be able to find something there. Thankfully I have coworkers that are willing to drive me around ha.
     
  7. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    04 xlt
    Just a update:
    I got a eBay cheapy bearing and been quiet for 10k miles now and counting. Fit was fine and think I used the original bolts (from a ford oem replacement first time around.)
    I don't know what seller but one of the sellers that sold a lot of them. It was like $40 shipped.

    Will check back if it ever goes out.
     
  8. Limited02

    Limited02 Well-Known Member

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    '02 Limited V8
    Can you check your purchase history to see who you bought it from and then add the link?
     
  9. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    TrueBlue auto parts. Here is a link to his store not the actual part.
    http://stores.ebay.com/True-Blue-Auto-Parts

    I would buy again. I know you hear horror stories of eBay junk but if I can get this at a 1/3rd price of the big box sores why not. Probably the same stuff. So far it is holding up. I went through original front bearings, replaced with OEM ford ones, (call up tousley ford in minnisota and say you are from the "svt forums" for a deep discount). Then had one of the replacement ones input in last about 30k miles. Figured at this rate can't loose trying a eBay one. Lots of other people bought it so it can't be too bad.

    Knock on wood.
     
  10. Limited02

    Limited02 Well-Known Member

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    Wow, you weren't kidding on price and I thought I went cheap! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel...ABS-/251602804523?vxp=mtr&hash=item3a94b21f2b
     
  11. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    Yep thats the ones. Well I only ordered one in October 2013. It was $47 shipped.

    Give it a try and let us know if anyone does buy one off this seller. I will update like I said when it goes out, but as of today and over 10k miles later still quiet as can be. I am pretty confident with it. Other ones twice the price are still made in China so whats the difference.
     
  12. TAZFORDS

    TAZFORDS New Member

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    JFYI ... I ordered a set of the SKF X-Tracker units from Rock Auto, got them in today and well .... they no longer come with the replacement bolts. They also had no bearing name stamped or etched on the bearings at all either. Hopefully this will still be an excellent choice, at $140 and change compared to the next expensive up at $167.99 Motorcraft HUB15 ... no longer HUB67 (at least for my 05 STrac) and no bolts pictured or mentioned either. At least SKF had a 36 month warranty of Motorcraft's 24 month, Oh well, we shall see.

    Is Ford still ridiculous on the 6 mounting bolts? Probably better off matching up grade 8 bolts from fastenal. Anyone used Fastenal for their bolt replacements?
     
  13. apenland01

    apenland01 Active Member

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    City, State:
    Tucson AZ
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2005 Eddie Bauer V8 4.6L
    SKF wheel bearing hubs

    I just finished this job today and I only had one major snafu. When torqueing the caliper bracket bolt (new one with SKF kit), it broke before torqueing completely. Thankfully, it broke in the knuckle, so I was able to get my vice-grips on it and remove it from the caliper. I just re-used the old caliper bracket bolts on that side.

    I bought the SKF kit from Rockauto and it came with the pre-installed ABS sensor cord and 5 new bolts. The hubs were stamped with "Mexico", so at least it's close to the USA............

    I didn't need a hub puller on the driver's side, but I did on the passenger. It was the bad one making all the noise when I would turn slightly left and was getting progressively worse over the last 2 weeks. It separated from the knuckle about 1/8", but wouldn't release from the axle splines. A couple of quick turns on the hub puller and it came right off.

    I used a thin scraper to separate the knuckle and hub and they both released very easily. Then used the same scraper to clean off the black crap from the front and beveled surface. Sanded the surfaces with some 600 sandpaper and got the majority of the crap off.

    All in all a pretty easy job, but that top bolt on the hub is the worst. It feels like it took about 500 turns to remove.........
     
  14. TAZFORDS

    TAZFORDS New Member

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    My SKF ones came from Rock Auto as well and were also stamped Mexico. They did have the pre-mounted ABS sensors, BUT did not come with the 5 new "mounting" bolts ( which consist of three hub mounting bolts and two smaller caliper mounting bolts ), not to be confused with the 5 wheel studs already mounted on the assembly (which mine did have). I did call Rock auto and they said they did not come with them.

    Changed both hub assemblies and both bottom ball joints and both upper A-Arms with ball joints in under 6 hours and an hour of that was trying to find a ball joint press tool kit to rent. BTW, you get your money back, but the sticker shock ... will be a shock lol, as I was quoted $129-189 greenbacks.

    My bearings had no markings at all, just the Mexico stamped into the outside edge of the assembly. A bit disappointed with the fact they were not USA made, at least the outer assembly was not. Can't speak for the bearings inside. :( Maybe they will last a good long time, at least they have a 3 year warranty.


    apenland01, were the 5 bolts you mentioned the pre-installed stud bolts or or 3 hub assembly mounting bolts of one size and two smaller caliper bolts? Just curious.
     
  15. apenland01

    apenland01 Active Member

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    bolts

    They both came with a white plastic bag with 3 long bolts for the hub and 2 short bolts for the caliper bracket. The lugnut bolts were already pre-assembled on the hub.

    On Rockauto, they list 4 SKF hubs, front and rear for Eddie Bauer/Limited and front and rear for all other Explorers. It sounds like you got the SKF hubs for the others. I'm not sure why there would be a difference, but they actually separate the hubs based on which model Explorer you have.

    As for markings, they only had "Mexico" and the part number stamped on the hub, nothing else. The warranty is 3 years, so I figured they would be worth the extra $20 over the other brands.

    The bolt breaking on the caliper bracket set me back about 30 minutes, but 20 minutes of that time was cussing and spitting on the bolt.........
     
  16. TAZFORDS

    TAZFORDS New Member

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    Bolts

    Thanks apenland01

    Must be because mine was an '05 Explorer Sport Trac. Odd there would be a difference, but I guess there is. No matter mine were easy to come off and went back on with no issues.

    all they list for mine is below

    Buyer's Guide: SKF BR930452 Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
    FORD EXPLORER (2003 - 2005)
    FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC (2003 - 2005)
    FORD RANGER (2003 - 2009)
    MAZDA B4000 (2003 - 2009)

    The ones I got: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1835546&cc=1430691&jnid=550&jpid=7
     
  17. GO Dawgs

    GO Dawgs New Member

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    I just purchased and received the same day from Amazon Timken SP470200 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly. It did not come with the replacement bolts for the hub or caliper bracket. It that going to be a problem?> Should i order bolts or use the current ones if they come off in one piece?
     
  18. Limited02

    Limited02 Well-Known Member

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    Personally, I say you'll be fine to reuse your current bolts assuming removal is simple (as in, you don't heat them up, strip them, etc).
     
  19. Silverblade

    Silverblade Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know if the 19mm bolt heads would work? As someone posted earlier I can only find the 19mm ones from local suppliers as opposed to the 15mm ones that are factory (wrench head size). I would like to have replacements on hand in case the old bolts don't come out very nicely. My dealership wants $16 each which is a bit steep. Thanks guys.
     
  20. Aviatrix

    Aviatrix New Member

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    Hey great big THANK YOU (yes, I am definitely shouting it) to everyone who contributed such great info to this thread! The shop manual has about 7 tiny steps detailing the process, none of which offer the wealth of information provided here.

    The info about the offset 15mm wrench was essential, and now I'm wondering if there's a racheting 15mm offset wrench somewhere to make it all go a little faster.

    Will agree and add that you cannot have too much light in your wheelwell. It is so dark in there you could develop film, and having to constantly position lights so you can see is an efficiency killer.

    My 10 year old original hub was high-heat silicone'd in, which resulted in considerably more profanity and about 10 extra hours to the job (the 10 hours included research on possible problems; a 3am call to my mama, a former auto parts queen; and a ton of angst-fueled nicotine consumption). The hub was so resistant to coming out that I also spent quality time looking for that extra bolt that I surely missed, but no, no extra bolt, was just the silicone, but I didn't know that until later.

    After exhausting all the tools in my garage to unsuccessfully pull the *(#%*ing hub, I decided to apply heat. Since I'd been tripping over the steam cleaner to get to all my tools, it made since to use that, so I pulled the speed sensor from the hub and injected enough steam to get the hub too hot to touch on the backside (you're going to want to put a paper towel over the hole - steam in, hot splattering grease out), then used a slide hammer to finally get it pulled after HOURS of work. Yes, that probably killed the old hub for any rehab or future use, but I have decided to wear the old hub on a chain around my neck like a rapper as a sign of victory... When I get the other one out, I will have it taxidermied and mounted on a plaque for over the fireplace.

    My only other helpful advice for aspiring hub pullers is to NOT use the cheap-a$$ed rolling mechanic's chair from Harbor Freight. This is a directional chair. After you've turned around several times to grab tools and are no longer facing forward on it and you start to apply some bodily force to those *&(#ing threadlocked bolts, the chair is going to dump you on your keester. You've probably piled a bunch of tools in the tray on the bottom, so it's going to make a godawful racket, which makes the neighbors look, which makes your ungraceful spill a neighborhood entertainment. I now have a frog the size of a baseball on my posterior. That chair is going to the trash and it will be replaced with a properly engineered mechanic's chair.

    Hoping the other side gets done in a fraction of the time now that the variables are known. Thanks again, everyone!
     
  21. edwx

    edwx Active Member

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    Just got finished reading your post and grinning from ear to ear. I hit the back side of my hub so many times with a 3 lb hammer, I thought I was going to crack the knuckle :) Your other side should go quicker.

    Unfortunately, I had to re-do one of my fronts 2 years later, and happy to say it was a piece of cake the second time.

    Good job!
     

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