EricSC
New Member
- Joined
- August 28, 2014
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Rural Retreat, Va.
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 Explorer AWD V6gas
Thanks Tyler92
Hey Tyler92,
I just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU. You saved me a few hundred bucks by taking the time to help. I have a couple of things to add as well for other members that may help even more:
1. Make sure the 18mm, 21mm, and 35mm sockets are deep well, preferably hooked up to an impact wrench if possible. If not, make sure to use a heavy duty 1/2" ratchet, a heavy pipe (I used my floor jack handle as a braking bar), and lots of PB Blaster. Luckily a friend lent me an impact wrench for the other side. The 10mm for the caliper doesn't need to be deep well. I had a 1 3/8" socket, but it wasn't deep enough for me to get a bite, however after I backed the nut off a bit, I tried it and it worked too, so if you have a deep well 1 3/8" you're good to go.
2. Get the axle nut lose BEFORE you jack it up. No need to worry about damaging the already tweaked bearing and it's easier.
3. The order of dis-assembly that worked best for me was loosen axle nut, loosen lugs, jack and secure, remove wheel, remove caliper, remove parking brake, remove upper ball joint stud, remove lower control arm, remove hub and knuckle to swing rearward and place on a block, and finally remove toe link. I took all the pinch bolts and fasteners out before actually removing each part, but this order worked more easily mainly because you can get easier access to the pinch joint on the tow link when it is away from the axle, ball joint, and lower control arm.
4. I had no need for a new hub. The splines on my old hub that run through the bearing and attach to the axle were fine, and it pressed out ok. I did need the retaining clip for the new bearing though, on both sides. I would imagine most would. Just don't buy the hub until you see what yours look like. They are way stronger than the bearing.
5. I also had no need for the hub puller. I PB blasted right after taking the axle nut loose so it could soak while I was working. When I was ready to pull the hub and knuckle away from the axle to remove the tow link, I only had to tap it through with a mallet a couple of times, and it came right off. I did back the axle nut out so that it was flush with the end of the axle, put my 35mm socket on the nut and used a board, just to make sure I didnt damage the end of the axle, but it went through so easily, I probably didn't need to bother.
6. If you still have friction material on the parking brake shoes, by all means, leave them alone. The springs and shoes are hard to get off, and more relentless to get back on. Unless you have a lot of experience with drum style brakes, only remove the control cable through the back of the wheel knuckle.
7. A really short chisel and a heavy maul hammer are key for that upper ball joint stud removal. It is a must to get good separation on the pinch joint to remove it. It's just as hard to get a pickle fork in there and you're guaranteed to tear the boot if you use one, which would mean a whole upper control arm. My tow link boot was torn already, so I did use one at that joint on one side.
8. DO NOT tear the upper ball joint boot or the axle (CV Joint) boot.
Listen to everything Tyler92 said and look at his photos. Again, many thanks for your time and effort. I wouldn't have tackled this job before I read this. It's 6 nuts and bolts, not including the lugs, and I was quoted from 450.00 to 700.00 per wheel. I bought 20 bucks worth of tools, 80 bucks for parts, and 40 bucks at the place that pressed my bearings. One day of me taking my time for dis-assembly, and one day for the pressing. It all went back together in a couple hours.
Thanks again!!
Hey Tyler92,
I just wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU. You saved me a few hundred bucks by taking the time to help. I have a couple of things to add as well for other members that may help even more:
1. Make sure the 18mm, 21mm, and 35mm sockets are deep well, preferably hooked up to an impact wrench if possible. If not, make sure to use a heavy duty 1/2" ratchet, a heavy pipe (I used my floor jack handle as a braking bar), and lots of PB Blaster. Luckily a friend lent me an impact wrench for the other side. The 10mm for the caliper doesn't need to be deep well. I had a 1 3/8" socket, but it wasn't deep enough for me to get a bite, however after I backed the nut off a bit, I tried it and it worked too, so if you have a deep well 1 3/8" you're good to go.
2. Get the axle nut lose BEFORE you jack it up. No need to worry about damaging the already tweaked bearing and it's easier.
3. The order of dis-assembly that worked best for me was loosen axle nut, loosen lugs, jack and secure, remove wheel, remove caliper, remove parking brake, remove upper ball joint stud, remove lower control arm, remove hub and knuckle to swing rearward and place on a block, and finally remove toe link. I took all the pinch bolts and fasteners out before actually removing each part, but this order worked more easily mainly because you can get easier access to the pinch joint on the tow link when it is away from the axle, ball joint, and lower control arm.
4. I had no need for a new hub. The splines on my old hub that run through the bearing and attach to the axle were fine, and it pressed out ok. I did need the retaining clip for the new bearing though, on both sides. I would imagine most would. Just don't buy the hub until you see what yours look like. They are way stronger than the bearing.
5. I also had no need for the hub puller. I PB blasted right after taking the axle nut loose so it could soak while I was working. When I was ready to pull the hub and knuckle away from the axle to remove the tow link, I only had to tap it through with a mallet a couple of times, and it came right off. I did back the axle nut out so that it was flush with the end of the axle, put my 35mm socket on the nut and used a board, just to make sure I didnt damage the end of the axle, but it went through so easily, I probably didn't need to bother.
6. If you still have friction material on the parking brake shoes, by all means, leave them alone. The springs and shoes are hard to get off, and more relentless to get back on. Unless you have a lot of experience with drum style brakes, only remove the control cable through the back of the wheel knuckle.
7. A really short chisel and a heavy maul hammer are key for that upper ball joint stud removal. It is a must to get good separation on the pinch joint to remove it. It's just as hard to get a pickle fork in there and you're guaranteed to tear the boot if you use one, which would mean a whole upper control arm. My tow link boot was torn already, so I did use one at that joint on one side.
8. DO NOT tear the upper ball joint boot or the axle (CV Joint) boot.
Listen to everything Tyler92 said and look at his photos. Again, many thanks for your time and effort. I wouldn't have tackled this job before I read this. It's 6 nuts and bolts, not including the lugs, and I was quoted from 450.00 to 700.00 per wheel. I bought 20 bucks worth of tools, 80 bucks for parts, and 40 bucks at the place that pressed my bearings. One day of me taking my time for dis-assembly, and one day for the pressing. It all went back together in a couple hours.
Thanks again!!