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How to: 2002 Explorer rear wheel bearing replacement (pictures)

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by Tyler92, August 15, 2009.

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  1. male man

    male man New Member

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    Year, Model & Trim Level:
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    Help! Stuck hub.

    My '05 X had me a bit worried after reading this thread but as I was screwing on the hub puller, waiting for some resistance I realized the hub was coming off....didn't even need a wrench, sweet.
    Things going smoothly so far.
    The passenger side was another matter. Liquid wrench for 3 days and the puller wouldn't budge it, tried heating it and a LONG breaker bar. Tapped it, hammered it, vibrated it...nothing. So I rented a 5# slide hammer to attach to the hub puller and that didn't work either. Any ideas?
    I hate to replace the 1/2 shaft and knuckle just because I can't get mine apart. Thanks.


    A hint. To remove the upper control arm bolt I ran a length of pipe from the loer control arm to the inside of the strut tower so it couldn't move. Then with a wedge in the split of the upper control arm I used a small hydraulic jack...popped right out.
     
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  3. SteveBarker

    SteveBarker New Member

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    Excellent detail. Ironically enough, we had our '03 done on the LR on vacation at a pro shop in Seattle. They guys were a friend of my cousin. We had already tried to pull the hub without success, so it took it to them. They worked on it 6 hours and charged me two and a half. I had already bought the hub and bearing. I could not believe how rusty mine had become. We live in Kansas, so i suppose some of the excessive salt they insist upon putting down in the winter didn't help. It took us a half hour with a 3/4 impact just to get the axle nut off. Back and forth, back and forth, spray it with pb again. etc. So i ended up paying that shop about $250 and i think the part from NAPA cost me about $180 if i remember correctly. I've been a certified mechanic since '79 and i'm glad i didn't try to tackle this one at home.
     
  4. fabracator

    fabracator New Member

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    great post, it really helped. problem i had was the bearing fell apart and left the race inside. did everything and couldn't get it out. so a buddy of mine told me to run a bead of weld around the center of the race and it would just fall out. sure enough, a couple of pecks and it fell right out. so if anybody else has that problem, thy this method.
     
  5. yglide123

    yglide123 Member

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    one more thank you to Tyler92... just did this on my rear wheel bearing this weekend. Wasn't too difficult - just getting and tracking down the right tools can be time consuming.

    And for the record, the nut holding the rear hub on a 2003 is a 35mm (I had to buy two and return one...).
     
  6. wingnut325

    wingnut325 New Member

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    I'm confused, I have an 02 4wd. Should be just like Tyler92's. I live in an area of no salt and there is very corrosion on this truck so I was just going to replace the bearings and reuse the hubs. Snap rings I can get at the hardware store if need be. At issue is what bearings to buy. I want to use the Timkens but they offer 2 part numbers. The parts are shown here http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.c...l+bearings&Nr=AND(universal:0)&ref=partfinder Do I have the independent suspension or the "Except independent suspension"?
     
  7. yglide123

    yglide123 Member

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    You do have independent suspension - not sure why they would have 'except independent suspension' for a 2002; since they all have independent suspension for this year...

    I'm doing the other side today - I have a feeling it will be easier after doing this once already!
     
  8. Craig Pate

    Craig Pate New Member

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  9. cherylberry

    cherylberry New Member

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    Thanks - helps me make my decision

    Thanks so much for the pics - after looking at the details of the job, I am praying that the mechanic that I am calling has some experience with jobs like these. I printed out the pic and so appreciate them.
    I called the dealer - quoted 340 to do the job and that is really not that bad - mechanic may be better - will see.
    Thanks again!
    :exp:
     
  10. super292

    super292 New Member

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    wheel bearing replacement

    Well I got everything put back together and drove 12 miles and the bearing was shot. So, I got a new one and replaced it and went 15 miles and it was shot. Tried one more time and went about 15 more miles and bam!! shot again. I don't know what keeps happening to the bearing. I got both the new hub and bearing pressed on at a machine shop the first time. The second time I press it on myself with a press we have a work, and the third time I pressed just the bearing on and then used the axle nut to press on the hub. I kept thinking that the hub didn't need to be pressed on, just the bearing. Either way, I keep blowing out the bearing. Anyone have an idea?????
    Thanks
    super
     
  11. matt0248

    matt0248 Active Member

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    Either the bearings are not the correct bearing, or the most likely cause is that the way that they were pressed damaged the bearing. FYI. using the axle nut to press in the hub is not good. The bearing needs to be prpoerly suppored when pressing into the knucle and when pressing the hub into the bearing.
     
  12. jakedrew

    jakedrew Active Member

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    I am unsure on doing this. I have the tools but still leary.

    Cost would be 110$ for the bearing and 170$ for labor at a ford dealer. They " d me two hours.

    Or 80$ for the Tousley ford discount / I install it myself.


    The guys who did this, WHat would you do?
     
  13. miker104

    miker104 Active Member

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    I finally wimped out and got local garage to change both rear bearings and new style oil seals in the rear diff. $672 out the door. Dealer wanted over $1000 for both jobs.

    I didn't really have the equipment, space or time to do this job with any confidence. It's done now!
     
  14. TheOxman

    TheOxman New Member

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  15. miker104

    miker104 Active Member

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    Your links don't seem to go to what you want to show us.

    If you are going to do the rear wheel bearings I would recommend changing both the bearing and the wheel hub (with studs that mount the wheels) as very minor damage on the hub can cause the new bearing to fail early.

    The National Brand 521000 at $175 each side is a better choice than the NT521000 version at $110 IMO. The National one is made in USA and I don't know where the NT one is made.

    Some have purchased Chinese made ones from Prime Choice http://www.primechoiceautoparts.com/c-40-wheel-bearings-mmy-FORD-EXPLORER-2004.aspx and there is a vendor on the forum that also sells them cheap. I'm fairly sure the ones he sells are made in China too, but that is just speculation on my part based on his price.

    The info I provided makes me think that you have the 4WD Independent Rear Suspension, not the 2WD solid axle (assuming they still made that option that year).
     
    Last edited: November 4, 2010
  16. ScubaDave

    ScubaDave New Member

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    I know this post has been around for a while, but hopefully someone is still monitoring it. I got my bearings and hubs this week (needs both rears) and will be starting my replacement soon. all seems clear from the earlier posts, but I was sondering about the removal and pressing in of the new bearings. I can understand the bearings being pressed into the knuckle, but is the hub also pressed into the bearing then? lso, is there an order to do the pressing, ie, first the knuckle and then the hub, or visa-versa? I may be doing this myself, so this would be really useful info if it is important to do in the right order.

    Thanks,

    ScubaDave
     
  17. tac27

    tac27 New Member

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    I'm also about to replace

    I'm with ScubaDave, but I have an additional question: will a 6 ton press apply enough pressure to remove/replace the hub from/into the knuckle?

    Thanks for everyone's post!

    Tim
    Las Vegas
     
  18. ScubaDave

    ScubaDave New Member

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    Progress made, still working on it

    Hey, I got my axle nuts off by just putting on the emergency/parking brake on and using a 35mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar. They were tight, but not really hard to get free.

    Also, I got the top and side support rods free by following the thread here, but without the PB Blaster. Makes it less messy. I do have a shorty air hammer with chisel blade that made short work of the pinch connections. It was a lot easier than using a chisel in the joint with a hammer. No room to swing with that combo. But the air hammer took only a few seconds. Just need to be sure the adjacent rubbers aren't knicked.

    The bottom support bolts came free without lube, too. Not a problem. I did/do have a problem with the E-brake cable - removing it, that is. Just found a better description of it's loosening so I can finish that. Then, I will see who can help with the hub pullers and pressing of the bearings.

    Still working this effort in with a bunch of other tasks, so it is taking a bit longer than it might otherwise. Luckily, I have another vehicle to use for now.

    Still looking for some feedback on my early questions, and I'd love to know if a 6 ton press would do the job, too. I'd rather do the whole job myself, but can't afford more than a 6 ton, right now.

    Thanks,

    ScubaDave
     
  19. ScubaDave

    ScubaDave New Member

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    Progress on my Bearing Job

    I went to Advance Auto like several others suggested and got a 'loaner' hub puller set. One warning, call ahead to see which store has one in and complete before going to the store and be prepared to 'temporarily' buy the item for the period you have it out and a price of around $100! I went to three stores before getting the set I used. The 'purchase' caught me off guard but it is refunded immediately when you return the complete set satisfactorily, but still - be prepared.

    My hubs, using the right tool, came right off and took less than 5 minutes per wheel! That was another surprise. Stuff is coming apart nicely.

    I went to Harbor Freight and picked up a a 6T hydraulic press and a set of bearing/seal press tools. Both are on special right now. Hopefully, this will work well to actually get the old bearings out of the knuckle and the new ones in, as well as getting the hub pressed in, too. Since I have new hubs, I don't have to worry about removing the bearing off the old ones. One less task is good!

    I'm hoping to finiish up on this job this weekend depending on how my house remodel job my wife is pressing for progresses. I'll update when I do get it done.

    Thanks to all the authors who have posted helpful hints over the past years. They were great resources for my effort. :)

    ScubaDave
     
  20. tac27

    tac27 New Member

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    Hey Dave, is the six ton press you purchased from Harbor Freight the 'A' frame bench top shop press priced around $90?

    Tim.
     
  21. ScubaDave

    ScubaDave New Member

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    Yeah. The press was $85 and the bearing and seal press kit was $25. Both on special at those prices right now through around the 25th, I beleive.

    ScubaDave
     

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