2stroke
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- August 7, 2013
- Messages
- 1,169
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- 55302
- City, State
- Annandale, MN
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1993 Ford Explorer Sport
I don't read this section very often, so I don't know if this has been posted many times before. I was recently in the first gen section and I posted how brake fluid is only good for 2-3 years before it absorbs too much water and lowers the boiling point. On top of that it will rust out your brake lines from the inside, as well as cause seal or caliper/wheel cylinder problems.
Most people only know how to bleed brakes with 2 people, and while it works, I find its both easier and more effective to do it alone. I learned this trick working on dirt bikes, but it will work on any hydraulic brake system.
(don't mind the spill)
The idea with any bleeding is that air rises in the fluid. For this reason it is often helpful to raise whichever part you are working on as high as possible. This method takes it one step farther. All you need is a bottle and a length of hose at least a foot long. The loop has to be above the caliper or wheel cylinder (this would also work for a slave cylinder on a transmission). The bottle has to have a small amount of fluid in the bottom, and the hose submerged. When you crack open the bleeder the fluid will want to siphon out, which is a good thing. Once the bleeder is open, all you have to do is pump the brake, and make sure to keep the reservoir full. Generally I go about 20-30 pumps, which is more than enough to get all fresh fluid in the lines and get the air out. Once you stop, the air cannot get back in because it will stay at the top of the loop. All you have to do is tighten the bleeder and you are done. It is usually best to do the farthest from the master cylinder and work your way back. On most cars this will be passenger side rear, drivers side rear, passenger side front, and finally drivers side front, in that order.
Most people only know how to bleed brakes with 2 people, and while it works, I find its both easier and more effective to do it alone. I learned this trick working on dirt bikes, but it will work on any hydraulic brake system.
(don't mind the spill)
The idea with any bleeding is that air rises in the fluid. For this reason it is often helpful to raise whichever part you are working on as high as possible. This method takes it one step farther. All you need is a bottle and a length of hose at least a foot long. The loop has to be above the caliper or wheel cylinder (this would also work for a slave cylinder on a transmission). The bottle has to have a small amount of fluid in the bottom, and the hose submerged. When you crack open the bleeder the fluid will want to siphon out, which is a good thing. Once the bleeder is open, all you have to do is pump the brake, and make sure to keep the reservoir full. Generally I go about 20-30 pumps, which is more than enough to get all fresh fluid in the lines and get the air out. Once you stop, the air cannot get back in because it will stay at the top of the loop. All you have to do is tighten the bleeder and you are done. It is usually best to do the farthest from the master cylinder and work your way back. On most cars this will be passenger side rear, drivers side rear, passenger side front, and finally drivers side front, in that order.
