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How To: Fix the Door Ajar Problem

I just want to say a big hearty "Thank You" to Rick for the forum and to you all for the great solutions provided. My alarm has been going off in the middle of the night waking the neighborhood. I'll try the WD-40 first and then look for the broken wire. Switch to turn off the backup indicator lights up "Off" and my "Door Ajar" comes on and then I know the alarm is going to go off that night. Gut feeling says that may mean broken wire?
 



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WD-40 worked 100% in my case

Thank you for posting the WD-40 approach to fix a Door Ajar Light On problem. Also, thanks to all of you that said it worked for you. This is very helpful and took me 15 min to fix, before starting to open door panels and look for the bad switch.

I had an intermittent Door Ajar Light at about 90,000 miles on my 2003 Ford Explorer that did go out shortly, then appeared few days ago at 105,000 miles. I sprayed WD-40 in each direction of in the lock (latch) mechanism in each door & gate (6 locations). Waited 10 minutes and re-applied WD-40 then exercised the open/close with the door handle from the inside and with the lock button. Also, open and closed the doors a couple of times. That fix it.:exp:
 






I know this is late to the gate but I have located the small black wire broken on the body side of the harness. How do you find the other broken end in the door.
 






Locate the same wire in the harness that goes through the boot and pull it toward the door.

Hope this helps out!! :biggthump
 






Door Ajar- WD40 versus Liquid Wrench

I tried the WD-40 a couple of times and it didn't last long. Then I went to Liquid Wrench (the yellow and blue can) which is closer to white lithium grease and sprayed the right front door (which seems to be the worst one) and the driver's door and haven't had an issue since. I sprayed them about 8 months ago. One of the first signs that a switch is sticking is when you set the auto alarm and it beeps twice even though all the doors and hatches are closed tight. Another is the "Door Ajar" message.
 






My first post here...hope this helps narrow it down. To find which door is problem:

Leave the key in the ingntion. Turn to the on position. Even with doors closed, chime sounds once after a few seconds and door ajar light comes on and stays on right? Open each door one by one. The chime, or tone, should sound each time you open a door. When you find the door that doesn't make the chime or tone sound when you open it, that is the problem. (Don't forget the rear hatch and the hatch glass also!) I would apply the WD-40 with a straw on this doors latch at this time.. Be sure to spray upward into latch, as the switch is frequently on top. It worked for me when I latched it with the door open, giving room for the straw above those "claws". To determine if the switch is bad or if the GEM is having a problem thinking the door is open, just unplug the suspected switch, close all the doors, and see if the problem stops. (don't forget to wait a second to give the lights time to go off) If unplugging the switch solves it, then replace it.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_yo...'_on_a_Ford_Explorer_all_models#ixzz2243f6NdP

Hope that's helpful..but it doesn't fix a broken wire...LOL
 






I've replaced the drivers side door switch and the "door ajar" light went away for a while but it has since come back and I just now tried the WD-40 trick to see if maybe something was a little sticky in one of the switches only time will tell if it works. One of my other problems was the "check gauge" light on for the fuel sometimes everything worked while other times it just hangs out on E. I found this thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=322730&highlight=tank and it mentioned the C4037 connector and while working on the truck this past weekend my buddy took it apart and cleaned it up and sprayed some de-electric(sp) grease in it and of course it worked great while driving home yesterday but of course today it wasn't, after doing the WD-40 trick the fuel gauge is once again working, of course time will tell ;) I did have on my list to look at the visor wires as I've read a few people having issue's with them as I was hoping to find something to fix the "door ajar" issue.


The pictures at the beginning of this thread are missing and though I did look for a broken ground wire when I replaced my door switch and speakers I was wondering if anyone had a copy of the pictures so they could be reattached to this thread for others looking to see what people are talking about when it comes to those two ground wires.
 












The pictures at the beginning of this thread are missing and though I did look for a broken ground wire when I replaced my door switch and speakers I was wondering if anyone had a copy of the pictures so they could be reattached to this thread for others looking to see what people are talking about when it comes to those two ground wires.

I have sent synyster a PM asking him to put the pictures back up.
 






Very Sorry the photobucket account they were attached to was deleted. I no longer have them on my laptop either. It's too late to snap any pictures of it today. Friday I have the full day off and I will snap some new pictures and have them up ASAP. Sorry guys. I completly forgot about those pictures being on that account. :/
 






Very Sorry the photobucket account they were attached to was deleted. I no longer have them on my laptop either. It's too late to snap any pictures of it today. Friday I have the full day off and I will snap some new pictures and have them up ASAP. Sorry guys. I completly forgot about those pictures being on that account. :/

Any word on locating the pics?

I might have to redo this write-up if the weather cooperates this weekend. As long as you don't mind. :dunno:
 






Hatch Door switch

Great Forum Thanks all Got my door ajar lite off( drivers side on therear hatch was the culprit) also last one checked Have all three on the hatch unplugged and am thinking of taping them up and not using them at all. Any problems with this? Also pulled the wiper motor off to check it out with the door switch lite off it will now make a noise at least Am thinking its galled up Thanks for all the repair posts Great! Ken
 






On the rear wiper motor; it will work if I take it out of the stop position and push down,and release it When i took it apart to clean I marked thecogged wheel the motor drives so as to keep it in time Any ideas? Just got this on the road after buying it several months ago and am working out the bugs Its a 2000 showing 90K but had major rust issues I had to deal with too
 






Yes we need pics back let me see if I can help. I took all my doors apart and pulled all of the plugs off the door sensors with no luck. I looked in the doors for broking wires no luck. I getting mad now.:mad:
 






I tested all of the 6 switch’s all tested good….
OK I’m lost here! Every door has power going to the switch’s and all of the negative’s are good.
That is a total of 6 switch’s. both front doors I pulled the boots back same thing all is good.
Then I pulled the kicker cover on the passenger side for a broken ground no all 3 are fine.

I need help.
 






Hold on here should I have power to the switch's? You would think it would be a negative loop.
 






I know someone here has info?
 






Hold on here should I have power to the switch's? You would think it would be a negative loop.

I would think that they would since a switch is what's used to make or break an electrical connection.
 






Is there a wiring diagram for a 2002 somewhere?
 



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