How to: Ford Explorer - Ranger Radius Arm Bushing Repair

[gwjorg]

I jacked up the Bronco. Placed a stand near radius arm bracket on the frame. Used hydraulic jack to lower front I beam axle after removing tire. I then loosed axle pivot bolt, had to removed shock top nut, and loosend/removed radius arm nut. I used come aong to pull front axle forward. On the driver's side, I disconnected the front drive shaft to prevent possibly pulling it out of the transfer case.

 

[fishnhunt18]

I have a clunking noise from my front end sometimes when I first pull out of a parking spot into a turn and start driving after having sitting for a while. It sound like a clunk like something is rubbing or not seated properly. I've heard it can be radius arm bushings or tie rod ends. What might be the culprit, how hard are they to replace, and what was the cost?

 

[willisan]

That's what was happening to me.

It wasn't bad, and only was around 15 or so for the bushing.

The HARD part was removing the 1 1/8 nut from the radius arm end. Be sure to soak that bad boy for days with PB blaster, and also be sure to have a cheater bar for your breaker bar.

After that, it was just a matter of cutting out the rivets holding on the radius bracket, then replacing them with grade 8 nuts and bolts. I didnt have to do anything with the front end except jack it up (for passenger side anyways)

 

[gwjorg]

Radius Arm bushing replacement

The bushing cost was about $20.00
It was hard work. I removed the radius arm nut(after soaking it for 2 days with penetrating oil), shock top nut and loosened pivot bolt nut. pulled front IBeam forward with comealong to removed radius arm bolt from bracket hole. Had to use 2nd comealong and hydraulic jack to position radius arm bolt correctly for reposition/insert back into bracket. I am 58 and it took me 3 hours on the 2nd radius arm after acquiring all the tools, jacks, comealongs from my experience of 6 hours on the first radius arm.

 

[diggity0169]

That's what was happening to me.

It wasn't bad, and only was around 15 or so for the bushing.

The HARD part was removing the 1 1/8 nut from the radius arm end. Be sure to soak that bad boy for days with PB blaster, and also be sure to have a cheater bar for your breaker bar.

I just used a cheater bar. They came off pretty easy. Some other people have posted that theirs were held on with red locktite, so you might try heating them up.

Re-torq specs were something like 100 ft-lbs if I recall. I think I specified that in the post?

 

[baphomet666]

Just a question

Hello everyone,

Just a little trouble with the translation.
i must remove the spring from the shock absorber completely
What the best quality Rubber or Polyurethane
have a link, please


Thank you very much

:exp::exp:

 

[Kamel]

Thanks so much for your write-up. I need to replace these and simply can't afford to get this done at the shop (quoted for around $300).

I am a complete newb here with very little mechanic experience and a poor assortment of tools . Should I be able to do this job with standard and deep socket sets, 2 jacks and jackstands, and a breaker bar? That is, assuming I just pull the bushings and do not remove the rivets.

Also a dumb question... where should I place the jackstands so that it ensures I have relieved the suspension from any pressure? I normally put them under the big metal suspension arm things in the front, not sure if that's where they should go.

 

[Valerik]

I'm about to replace my radius arm bushings too. I have never done this before, on any vehicle. Local shop wants to charge me $375 to do it, I bought 2 sets of bushings for $22 from autozone. I have a basic tool set, and the jacks and stands, but I would really like to avoid cutting the rivets out. Later on when I lift the truck I am going to replace pretty much all of the steering ans suspension components, so this is just a quick cheap fix. What would be the easiest way of doing this without cutting or replacing anything but the needed bushings??

 

[Valerik]

Side note;

I got two boxes of bushings from autozone. Each was supposed to have one set, just for one side. Cheapest set, basic rubber. I opened both boxes, and one contained two sets that looked different. Checked it out, and they are the correct size. Confused, I looked them up.... I just scored polyurethane offroad racing bushings for $11. YESSSS

 

[Kamel]

nice, maybe i should try and get mine from autozone then... haven't gotten it yet. i'm still apprehensive about doing this one myself, but at $300 to get the shop to do it i'm pretty much forced to try :S

 

[Valerik]

I agree. The shop I went to refuse to do an alignment until the bushings are replaced, and they want to charge me a months worth of food basically. Doing it yourself is always more risky since you aren't trained and what not, but I think its more rewarding. If you screw up it can be pretty bad, but if you do it right its cheaper and you can say "@#$% yes I did that myself". I always feel good about myself when I DIY just about anything. Plus you save alot more cash to put toward your truck. Sometimes I absolutely hate shopping at autozone, but usually the computer can tell them what I need even if they have no idea what I am talking about. The thing I don't understand about these bushings are they aren't even sold at autozone, and they are manufactured by a different company. They were supposed to be duralast, but I pretty sure that they are Prothane. Maybe the truck gods fancied me today. Good luck with working on yours though!

 

[nemoremo]

Ok so I got about half into this before I ran out of strength, gas whatever......
if I can't get the radius arm to come more forward I will have to drill the rivets.

Found the answer...

1) remove the bolts from the anti sway bar
2) remove the nut from the shock
3) remove the wheel and jack up the front end and let it hang with full droop (use jack stands under the frame)
4) remove the radius nut

I have removed the sway bar.
I have removed the shocks.(new ones going on)
Wheel is off and everything is hanging.
I have removed the radius nut.

I am still about an inch or so short of being able to get the arm out. I did apply significant mechanical leverage to the arm pulling it forward. I do not have a come along. Thought I did but it's MIA. I used a trucker strap but will have to get more aggressive.

........and loosen the coils spring retaining bolt. You do not have remove all of the way. Simply loosen enough until you can spin the spring and remove from the coil bucket leaving the lower end attached. Loosen the radius arm nut, use a big pry bar to move the arm forward and using down pressure to 'drop' the arm out of the bracket. Replace the bushings and use pry bar to lift up, back, and then in and reassemble. If you are not experienced or are uncomfortable with the pry bar, use a come along to pull the axle forward. Hope this helps. Once you get the hang of it, 15-20 minutes a side.

I did not see this part about loosening the coil spring retaining nut. I do have a large pry bar that will be helpful for more mechanical advantage.

eb - you do not mention disconnecting the front drive shaft? Do you recommend this?

Thanks.

Jerry

 

[Roadrunner777]

Figure I'd throw in few words... did this today, took about 6 hours, taking my time, removing rust and painting as I went. I started working with the springs, but realised I didn't have the right socket. Didn't seem to matter.

I ground off the heads on the rivets (needed an excuse to buy a Milwaukee angle grinder that was on sale), then drilled through the body of the rivets up to about 3/8" diameter, than knocked them clear with a punch and BFH.

Every one of the new bolts posed some kind of challenge, they took a lot more time than I would have thought.

End result, the old bushings were actually not that bad, they were a little bit egged, but not terrible. I had already bought the Moog kit, so why not. The front end feels a little tighter. Feels good to have this done, sore and worn out, should sleep good tonight. Next week: ball joints.

 

[bigjoeblue]

Just replaced my passenger side on my 91 eddie B.Drilling out the rivits is the way to go,bought 3 black oxide bits up to 7/16 and drilled them out in 5 minutes.Whole job took about 4 hours,including a hour trying to find a shop who had grade 8 hardware..pep boys had what i needed.I also used a torch to heat up all the bolts including the 28mm radius arm bolt.They all came off with a breaker bar,no cheater needed.The Radius arm bracket popped right off with a little jiggling..Not bad! She rides a lot nicer and gone is the banging when i hit the brakes,Next week the drivers side! Then The driver side Shock tower,which is rusted out! Should be fun!!

 

[baphomet666]

I feel stupid, he repeatedly asked
what kind of bolts should be set up after the rivets.
I do not know what type of bolt
should I ask here in FRANCE

 

[Roadrunner777]

Class 10.9. The head of the bolt should have 10.9 marked on it.

 

[baphomet666]

Thank you very much for the picture Roadrunner777
you have a larger image of your avatar please



-:exp::exp:

 

[Roadrunner777]

Try clicking on 'Video' at the bottom of my post. It's funny what that car can do.

 

[baphomet666]

Try clicking on 'Video' at the bottom of my post. It's funny what that car can do.

OK I see is a monster Soviet, this truck, it is incredible hard to find this kind of vehicle not

_:exp::exp:

 

[baphomet666]

Sorry, I have little trouble with the translator of google.
He gives funny word.
my question is whether it is better to make a drilling rivet or go with the grinder, knowing that I will be working under the truck
Thank you very much
-:exp::exp: