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How to: Ford Explorer - Ranger Radius Arm Bushing Repair

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by diggity0169, July 30, 2010.

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  1. Roadrunner777

    Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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    I ground them flat and then drilled a hole, like maybe 10mm or so. I drill it about 2/3 of the way through. Then, I get a punch and a 5 pound hammer, and seat the punch in the hole I just drilled. I put the backside of the punch in a deep socket, and add some extensions so I can stand up and take big swings at it. (I purchased some extra disposable extensions at Harbor Freight, just for the occasion!)

    I would buy some bolts of different lengths so you can try different set-ups.

    The rivets are not that difficult, though, once you set a strategy, and everything else is easy. On a scale of 1 to 10, where an air filter is 1 and ball joints are 10, RA bushings is about a 5 the first time you do it. Then, it's so obvious, it's routine.

    Bonne chance!!! :D
     
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  3. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    Thank you Mr Roadrunner777 , I will think twice to see how I will proceed
    And thank you for your French :thumbsup:
    ;)
    -:exp::exp:
     
  4. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    :banghead: I finally found the nuts, bolts and washers it took time if only for that
    I will start after you have the answer to my question.car I'm quite distracted and also struggle with the translator of google
    Remove the coil spring is realy necessary or can I leave it in place please
    I will adopt the strategy of the drill, work under the truck with the Grinding tool and every sparks does not tell me anything good :crazy:

    Thank you very much for your help for me
     
  5. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Removing the springs make the work easier. When the springs are installed they are pushing on the radius arms as you are working on the radius arms.

    I recommend removing the springs.

    ~Mark
     
  6. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    Thank you Mark, I think I'll start working tomorrow just Need to take an additional tool to compress the spring

    Thank you very much

    -:exp::exp:
     
  7. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    You do not need to compress the spring to remove it.

    You may need to take off the lower shock mount and the sway bar to get the spring to fall out.

    The only thing holding in the spring in is the big bolt on the bottom. Once you have that bolt off the bottom you can twist the spring and it will come out of the top mount.

    ~Mark
     
  8. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    it's there better way and more easy
    Thank you very much
    ;)
     
  9. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    Thank you for all

    I wanted to say thank you very much diggity0169 for this thread, Roadrunner777 and Maniak for your explanations and advices
    Other every members for their comments

    It Took Just Over Four Hours for the two sides
    but ultimately I am arrived to do the job properly

    I am not a great technician but pretty good with my hands and good tools
    I am proud of myself and happy to have members of this forum as new friends if you accept .
    Without you I would not arrived to do the job.

    A BIG THANK YOU for all
    Dominik

    -:exp::exp:
     
  10. White1992

    White1992 New Member

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    Is there a way to do this with just taking off the bold and pulling the arm forward? I mean i know id have to use a jack stand for the under frame to keep it from falling, but what about the arm itself or is it stable enough to where i dont have to jack it up or anything?
     
  11. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    That is the other method to do this.

    But to just pull the arm forward you need a come-along or something like that to pull the arm forward AND you need to pull the spring, shock, sway bar etc just to have a chance at doing this.

    ~Mark
     
  12. Mudboy

    Mudboy Active Member

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    Why would one even want to do it like that? Once the rivets are out and bolts are put in, radius arms bushings become a very, very easy job.
     
  13. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    Surely, there is work a little longer to get out the rivets.
    but after have replace rivets. by screws and bolts he wins a lot of time for the future


    -:exp::exp:
     
  14. Roadrunner777

    Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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    I guess it has a little bit to do with what you have for tools. If you don't have good power tools, then you may be better off unbolting stuff and pulling it forward with a come-along, or your 3 best friends. I ended up buying a $100 Milwaukee angle grinder just for this job. But, it has turned into one of my favorite tools between grinding, cutting, or my favorite, a wire wheel cup. Anyway, that's what I think.:p:
     
  15. White1992

    White1992 New Member

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    Well i can easily take off the coil spring and shock. I also have some pretty big friends lol. But ive had to get it replace before and they never did any grinding or anything. I could have them do it again but when i found out i can get the part myself for like 40 bucks and do it myself and for them to do it was like 200.
     
  16. Currency

    Currency Active Member

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    When I done this to my passenger side I did pull the spring, besides I was replacing the entire RA. Even if I did not replace the RA I would consider it nearly impossible to change the bushings without removing the spring.

    It can be done but I wouldn't want to chance pulling on a vehicle with a come-a-long while 1/4 or 1/2 of the vehicle is on jacks or jack stands. I always try to do everything as quickly, but safely as possible.

    Would personally recommend pulling the springs method.
     
  17. cloaked_chaos

    cloaked_chaos Elite Explorer

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    I changed out my bushings easily by placing a jack under the radius arm, removing the nut, and using a come-along to pull the front axle forward. This method took me about 5-10 minutes per side to change out the bushings.

    Disclaimer: I have a 5.5" lift with extended radius arms. I don't know if this method would work on a stock explorer.
     
  18. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    :cool: HA ok, I watched the famous "come-along" it easy to work with him is another solution, the time savings is probably significant.

    ~ Dominik :exp:
     
  19. TorontoGuy

    TorontoGuy Member

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    Could this procedure be carried out with the front end on ramps rather than jacks/jackstands? I'll be getting the rivets out, replacing both radius arm brackets and replacing the radius arm bushings.

    If I remove the radius arm nuts/brackets/bushings with the front end fully weighted (on the ramps) will I run into problems with the radius arm moving or making it difficult to re-install everything?
     
  20. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    No, you need jack stands.. It also helps to still have use of a jack to help get things all lined up again IF you still have the coil springs in. If you take out the coil springs it makes manipulating the the front suspension much easier.

    If you have anything resembling rust there the spring may be a pain to pull out. Around here it takes 5 minutes to get the spring out (Arizona).

    ~Mark
     
  21. TorontoGuy

    TorontoGuy Member

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    Thanks Maniak. How about the best place to jack up the front end to place the jackstands? As well as the best place for them? I figure under the frame but just making sure.
     

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