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How to keep 00' explorer running clean

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by MinorDetail, September 20, 2016.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. MinorDetail

    MinorDetail New Member

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    Hi everyone, just bought a 2000 Ford Explorer 5.0 v8 in pretty good exterior condition with close to 180k miles, just changed oil/oil filter, and new tires for now. Now my question today is how can I keep it running clean? How can I get it running better? What steps should I take to make sure I'm not left along side a road stranded with my baby in the back seat. I am obviously not an expert on vehicles so anything will he'lp. Thanks !!
     
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  3. redexplorer5.0

    redexplorer5.0 Elite Explorer

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    the 5.0L V8 it very reliable reg oil changes,tune ups change the air filter use good gas change the fuel filter normal maintenance
     
  4. 96eb96

    96eb96 Well-Known Member

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    transmission pan drop and filter, if the fluid isn't too trashed. Use Mercon V. Pull the trans dipstick first, maybe post a pic.

    But you picked an extremely reliable vehicle.
     
  5. koda2000

    koda2000 Explorer Addict

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    Change the fuel filter and if you don't know if the fuel pump has ever been replaced, at 180K it's due to begin giving you starting problems. This typically happens during the winter/cold months. All 6 of my Explorers/Mountaineers V8's and V6's (same fuel pump) started having fuel pump problems between 175K-200K. They just eventually wear out. Usually you can just replace the pump itself and not the entire fuel pump assembly and save money. I recommend Bosch fuel pumps (eBay around $60).

    How old is the battery? It should have a sticker on it showing the month/year of manufacture. Anything over 5 years old is entering its "golden years" and may leave you stranded w/out warning.

    Other than that, the 5.0 engine and it's transmission are a very reliable platform. 180k is only middle aged with routine maintenance. Gen II Explorers have their weak points, but these are relatively few and are easily/inexpensively repaired. This forum is a great resource for information.

    Some things to check (none if which will leave you stranded w/out warning)
    - upper/lower ball joints
    - inner & outer tie rod ends
    - compare tire wear left/right
    - sway bar end links
    - front wheel bearings
    - shock absorbers (look for signs of leaking)
    - radiator coolant level (radiator end-tanks tend to start leaking at around 200K)
    - fluid leaks (rear main engine seal is typical on the 5.0 and can be ignored if minor leakage)
    - transmission and differential seal leaks
    - brake pad wear (including parking brake shoes)

    I've found the biggest issue on the 5.0 is coolant leaks from the water pump and timing cover. Not because they are common problems, but because the labor/effort required to fix them is fairly high/difficult.
     
  6. MinorDetail

    MinorDetail New Member

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    Thanks for al your input! Yes I just replaced brake pads and noticed the parking brake is worn to hell and back and the pedal for it won't even push down at all so I'm assuming I need to change the parking brake shoes on the rear end ?
     
  7. koda2000

    koda2000 Explorer Addict

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    Yes the parking brake shoes will need to be changed if the friction material is cracked, thin or missing. Another thing that happens if the parking brake is not used regularly is that the linkage tends to rust together at the brake backing plate and often needs to be replaced (especially if you live where the roads are salted in winter). If you do live in the "rust belt" also check the rear spring shackles/hangers. They tend to rust away and collapse.Drop the spare tire and check the evaporation system bracket. In the rust belt the bracket rusts away and the evap canister ends up sitting on top of the spare tire.
     
  8. Justinwht

    Justinwht Member

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    Fuel pump due for replacment,,,

    My '96 symptoms were it wouldn't start maybe once a month in the summer and fall. Let it sit a bit and started up. By December it was once a week, then it was once a day. If you don't hear the three second whine of the pump as soon as your turn on the ignition, then the pump isn't running.

    On a side note the fuel pump relay went out on me. It's the outer most relay in fuse compartment. Swapped it with the one next to it that is the "pedal to the metal" relay that disengages A/C compressor when you floor the pedal to get more power for passing.
     

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