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How To: Pull Trouble Codes on a 1st Gen Explorer (paperclip method)

Discussion in 'Stock 1991 - 1994 Explorers' started by doonze, October 3, 2009.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. MrShorty

    MrShorty Explorer Addict

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    I'd start with a wiring diagram. As frequently as these sensors fail, I'd check for shorts/opens between the sensor and the PCM. If that all checks out, then I'd replace the DPFE/PFE sensor.
     
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  3. deamon3

    deamon3 Active Member

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    Anyone know what to do if it refuses to show codes? my cel works it just don't do anything when I attach the paper clip.
     
  4. MrShorty

    MrShorty Explorer Addict

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    The first question I would ask is if it entered test mode or not. Does the CEL go off when you initiate the test (indicates that it does enter the test) or does it stay on (indicates that it didn't enter the test)? Can you hear the relays click indicating that it entered the test? If you hook up a voltmeter to the self-test connector output (see the diagrams in Brooklyn Bay's EEC-IV code list thread), does it output codes?
     
  5. deamon3

    deamon3 Active Member

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    The cel just stays on as if I hadn't connected anything. The cel isn't on when the car is running but I KNOW the engine isn't running well.

    I don't actually have a voltmeter they're expensive.
     
  6. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Digital Volt meters are cheap too. I pay < $3 for them (at Harbor Freight) and I throw them away when its time for a new battery. When they aren't on sale they are still < $10 each.

    You don't need anything fancy.

    For testing the CEL an analog meter is easier and I know I paid well under $20 for it.
    Cheap analog one from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/A-W-Sperry-SP...0SVU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1293775385&sr=8-6


    ~Mark
     
    Last edited: December 31, 2010
  7. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt Explorer Addict

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    I have a digital that I got at Sears on sale for $19.99

    That's kind of one of those tools that if you're going to work on your vehicle a fair amount, you just have to have one- they're way too valuable to not have.
     
  8. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    Not well understood

    Hello everyone,

    :banghead: I just read the thread, but with the translator is not easy to understand everything.
    The threadl explains how to find a flaw and its code number?
    I'm sorry and apologize for boring you :dunno:
    But here in France, nobody knows how to work on Ford Explorer
    I take all the interesting information for me and then I made a French translation to do my own repair manual


    :exp:
     
  9. MrShorty

    MrShorty Explorer Addict

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    That suggests to me that it isn't entering test mode. Make sure you are jumpering the correct leads, make sure you are getting a good connection on your jumper wire. If that doesn't get it to enter test mode, check the wiring between the test connector and the PCM. I would bet that most of the time this is because you are aren't getting a good connection on your jumper.
     
  10. Fyrebird0211

    Fyrebird0211 New Member

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    HELP! Needing "De-coded"

    Hey guys,
    Your articles about the trouble codes really helped me understand the problem with my 93 Explorer. (See my post "Transmission or Brakes?")
    Come to find out, using your paperclip method, it was neither of those.
    Maybe you can help me figure out what it is exactly by decifering the codes it brought up:

    122
    124
    125
    175
    176

    Then the FIRST code came up as 522. Which I could not find a reference to. Could someone PLEASE help me figure out what I have to replace? I know the H20s is one, but what is causing the voltage change in the TP?
    Come to find out, after wiping the codes, that this is what was causing the "surging" in the truck. (Glad to find out it wasn't the tranny!!)
    Thanks, guys, you saved me a crap load of work!
     
  11. Roadrunner777

    Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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    122 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) below minimum voltage
    - Do TPS Test

    124 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage above normal
    - Same test

    125 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage below normal
    - Same test

    175 HEGO (HO2S) Sensor fault not switching

    176 HEGO (HO2S) Sensor fault/always lean

    Suggested course of action:
    Diagnose and repair TPS problem first. Then, clear codes and drive. Test again. It is possible the TPS problem is causing the O2 sensor fault.

    For further diagnostics, please create a new thread, otherwise this one gets too big.
     
  12. furest

    furest New Member

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    Hi guys
    I did this test today and i am coming with 176 fault.
    Can you help me what i need to check or replace.
    Check engine light is coming when engine is running for more then 10-15 minutes.
    On short distance never.
     
  13. Roadrunner777

    Roadrunner777 Well-Known Member

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    176 means the left (driver side) O2 sensor is reporting a lean condition.

    On a 93, that could be an intake manifold leak. You can read plenty about lower intake gaskets, there are many threads on this. Engine running, I would take a can of carb cleaner, and spray it around the gasket from the lower intake to the left head and see if you get any idle change. If so, then you can try torquing the bolts, or worse case, replacing the lower intake gasket. Good notes on doing this, go to the Stock 1991-1994 section and search on lower intake.

    Other possibilities... clean the mass airflow sensor, that's never a bad idea and it would cause lean, albiet on both sides, but maybe the left side is more sensitive. There are discussions about bad cat converters, coil packs, or it could be the O2 sensor itself. To address that, you can swap the O2 sensors left and right and see if the code changes.

    Search the entire board for 'code 176' and you will get plenty of ideas. If you go much deeper on this, I would start a new post in Stock 1991-1994. You will get more visibility from people who know this engine.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2011
  14. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    :thumbsup: I am yet another time that day
    I tried to do with your very good explanation ...... (damage for Mister shorty I do not understand English ......)
    But I must be somewhere in the procedural error because I can not do it.
    I will redo this with a friend who understand English.
    in any case thank you for writing this it is very good

    :exp:
     
  15. LoveMyExplorer

    LoveMyExplorer New Member

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    OMG thank you so much! I've had the CEL off and on for about a month. I'm losing power on hills, hard starting, rough idling....etc. I remember my '94 Acclaim could output the codes through the ignition and it was great. Now my beloved Explorer can talk to me too!!! You guys rock!!!!
     
  16. FORD*FAN

    FORD*FAN New Member

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    I must say this easier than asking autozone, does anyone know where i can get an obd-1 reader?
     
  17. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Most odb-1 readers just flash the codes to you. They are really just very fancy paper clips that make sound (so you can count without looking).

    Autozone sells that kind. Its Part # CP9015 and is $29.99

    The Equus Innova - Digital Code Reader Part # 3145 actually displays the numbers. That one is $32 at Oreillys (used to be CSK/Checker/Kragen etc). BUT, I found it on amazon for $22. http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW

    ~Mark
     
  18. Don Laws

    Don Laws New Member

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    I have a 1994 Ranger XLT, 2.3L (200542.1 miles). You guys keep it simple, lol, and being the simple person that I am, I appreciate it. I was having a problem with the Ignition Control Module (ICM). It acted as though the coil packs were bad. After watching MrShorty's Video, I managed to pull the codes (seriously simple process). The codes indicated coils (both of em) were bad. On my way to work, the truck decided it was time to quit. Fortunately I was going by Auto Zone in Leland, NC and managed to roll into their parking lot at 7 AM. By 7:15 I was in the door and with Leslie and Angelo's help, determined that the coil packs were fine and the ICM was bad. Leslie did the test on their machine. I replace the ICM ( my right arm is still skinned up) and now my truck is running like a Swiss Watch. After talking to my cousin, I found that the check engine light had been on for years, and now it is gone. This is a GREAT FORUM !!!!! As we say in the US Navy......Bravo Zulu to Doonz, Joe Dirt, MrShorty, and Auto Zone's Leslie and Angelo. Thanks ya'll, I am now a Happy Camper.
     
  19. Wade99

    Wade99 New Member

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    Wonder if i can do same on a 96. Bookmarked thread just in case
     
  20. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Short answer:no

    you have odb-II and rewuire a code reader or scanner

    ~Mark
     
  21. Wade99

    Wade99 New Member

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    Darn. No parts stores I go to will check OBD II anymore. However, they will sell me a scanner for bookoo dollars. No thanks, I'll do it the old fashioned way and replace all O2 sensors, unplug batt for awhile and see what happens. They are original equipment, so it's prob time to replace anyhow.
     

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