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How to: Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor

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AWESOME!

Ever since I was working on the 'Extreme Makeover' house here in Kingston, WA (it will air on 1/9/05) in Early November (read THAT thread here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1114941#post1114941 ), my 4x4 function didn't work!

Using this write-up, I ordered the T-20 Security tool off ebay. It arrived the other day, and today was my first day off since then. I cut the brown wire, as I couldn't figure out how to unplug it.

I took the Shift motor into the garage, took apart the motor and found the bushing in about 5 pieces!

I promptly replaced it with a piece of rubber hose from my spare parts shelves (it started as a 'bin' and grew....LOL)

Put it all together, installed a butt connector and shrinktube over that on the brown wire I cut........plugged it in AND IT WORKS!

I took the X to a place where I could test the functionality........PERFECT!

It works, it works!

Thanks a million.....well not quite a million, but atleast $300 worth!

Ryan

good yummy cheezy!
 






hi everyone
Will this rebuild work for all these shift motors? I now have a 98 sport and the motors are different, the 98 has 2 sensors? so if any and everyone could answer this I would be ver appreciative thanks rcomp
 






You can buy a new shift motor from am-autoparts.com for $85 I called ford and they wanted $348.20 for theres. Hope this helps any one who cant afford the 300 .
 






You can buy a new shift motor from am-autoparts.com for $85 I called ford and they wanted $348.20 for theres. Hope this helps any one who cant afford the 300 .

..Was this for your 99 Ranger?

...Our vendors here like Rockauto offer a lower price before the member discount..;)
 






Yep its for my 99 ranger. Iv already ordered it though . I didnt find this site untill after the purchase or other wise I would have tried and fixed it myself before ordering. But with my luck it will proubly end up being just a vacume line or something sence iv already spent the money. lol
 












4x4 shift motor & control module for 93 Ranger

Thanks for posting the step by step process with photos on how to rebuild the shift motor.
I too was having problems with my 4x4 not engaging. The light on the push button 4x4 shifter wouldn’t light up & no sound was heard coming from the control module.
From all the comments posted pertaining to 4x4 problems, I came to the conclusion I probably have 2 problems going on.
1) After testing the control module I found it was fried. No noise & no red light lit up on 4x4 dash button.
2) The shift motor was probably the culprit for the original cause of the board being fried. The module had been trying to engage & would keep clicking trying to find the motor hence after quite a few tries burnt out.

My truck is getting up there in age & I hate to put a lot of money into it so after reading the instructions above I decided to attempt this on my own. I have to admit I’m very much a girly, girl, I even broke a nail doing this! I have changed the oil myself; spark plugs, and air filter you know the basics of maintenance but have never attempted anything of this magnitude.

I will first say if there any guys out there questioning whether they should or can attempt this I can honestly say the instructions are bang on; if I can accomplish this then anyone can. A word of caution you really have to be diligent & MARK the shift motor (when removing it from below & apart) using a felt pen especially if you don't want extra work for yourself. Luckily I had read it over at least a dozen times & accomplished this exactly as per directions. I was even able to remove the brown wire where a lot of the guys were having a bit of trouble, be patient it is easy just remember you must pick out the round red ring in the center I used a spudger (or a small metal hook, try a paper clip & bend it to make a hook) pull the brown wire out from behind the housing, once that is off you shouldn't have trouble removing the shift motor as per instructions. I also sprayed the bolts with WD40 before trying to remove the motor from the undercarriage, it made it a lot easier removing.
I cleaned up the outer housing with a little gasoline & a brush before opening the housing of the shift motor. Once I had it opened I found the problem immediately. The white plastic bushing others had talked about, was broken apart into several pieces. I replaced it using a small piece of hard plastic hosing (water line) cut to the same depth as the wheel, which fit quite snugly. I then cleaned up the armature with some steel wool, used some wax string to hold the springs in place while I placed the armature back in the cylinder then slowly pulled out the string from inside the housing. Just make sure you mark exactly where the armature was before you remove it from the cylinder. I found everything else to be fairly clean. I don't do any off roading just travelling a few back roads so I found it wasn't all that dirty. I put everything back the way it was. It fit together like a glove, thanks to the fella that insisted you must MARK the direction when removing the motor; it actually went back together & on the truck with no problems but could definitely see where you could be at this for hours if you do not mark this with a black felt pen.
All in all taking my time it took me 5 hrs to complete & that’s not knowing squat about vehicles! I can't thank you enough for all the input & photos you have taken made this so much easier than it could have been!

After testing the control module, thanks again for the instructions on how to do that, I went to the dealer to find which modules are interchangeable. Explorers 1991-94 & Rangers from 1986-94 I was told will work as long as it is a push button (4x4 button on dash) & if you have an automatic tranny, like mine. Was told for it to work it must be a module from an automatic my guess, it must be set up differently than that from a manual trans.)The part modules that are interchangeable are #F17B-7E453-AA & #F1TB-7E453-AA. I was quoted for a new control module from Ford at $984.00. Phoned around for a used control module the prices varied from $60.00-$150.00. Ended up going to "Pick Your Part" & removed one from a 93 Explorer for $12.99. Plugged it in & everything worked fine & I believe better than ever! All in all the total cost, T-20 Torx bit in a kit $3.99, Silicone $5.99 & a new control module $12.99.

Thanks again guys for all the feedback, this is a great forum & if I plan on keeping my 4x4 I will definitely be coming back for more do it yourself help!
 






Ok guys now I need help. lol
I took my old shift motor off and it was bad I replaced it with a new one and replaced the 15 amp fuse that was blown in slot 27. and I still have no 4wheeldrive.
 






...See my previous post since you have vacuum hubs..;)
 






Shouldnt you hear the new shift motor making some noise or some thing ?
I dont hear any noise and my 4x4 lights on the dash are flashing . I dont think its a proublem with my hubs . Thanks though ;)
 












Brushes

I just completed this. Thanks so much. One thing that helped ... for holding the brushes while reassembling the motor, fold a paper clip to create a clamp with outward pressure. Make sure that it sticks out past the bellhousing. This way toy can pop the motor in and than release the brushes when there is only 1/32nd of an inch of clearance.
 






anyone have an idea why when i accelerate hard my drive wheel sounds like its thumping into low range repeatedly? i hate the sound and want it gone
 






bump..?
 






this might be a stupid question, but do you really need to remove the whole shebang from your drivetrain in order to rebuild the shift motor???
 






Hi everyone. Just joined as i have been reading this thread as i have been researching a fault with my '99 XLT that fits this description.
My problem was as follows....
for no reason i lost my 4x4 capability and both the 4wd hi and 4wd low lights on the dash would flash '6' times then stop...a few minutes later they would flash again.
i did read a similar thing earlier in the thread which prompted me to become a member....
i had pretty well established from the thread that my next course of action was to do the fore-mentioned rebuilt of the shift motor then while reading further and having a cup of tea notice a comment about disconnecting the battery....so thought i would try that before any disassembly....and you wouldnt believe it...it works perfectly.
So, i thought i would write and advise other members that just fore sake of ease, and before dismantling ANYTHING, disconnect the battery first and then reconnect then try your swich again......
if still does not work then do the repair as described, but be a damned shame to pull the whole thing to bits if all you had to do was disconnect the battery to let the computer to reset.
fantastic thread and thanks to all that have contributed, i have a spare car that i will probably rebuild the shift motor from and have it on the shelf for future use.
thanks again and regards
Colin
 






ok so i got the motor off dis assembled everything fixed the bushing now reconnection everything and i run into the problem of not remembering how the gear with the stop pin goes into the housing. if anyone could point me in the right direction.... thanks in advance
 






I followed ther posts, pulled the. TC Motor disassembled and replaced the bushing on the large gear with a piecve of rubber fuel line. Reassembled the motor and Installed on the truck. Reconnected the battery and pressed the white button on the control module. Now when I press 4x4 button, light comes ande motor responds but Low Range button still Isn't working yet. Any thoughts?
 



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shift motor

I can't find if this has been awnsered, but has anyone tried to modify the actual housing itself, like by welding a bigger peice o metal to the case, so it won't skip the stopper?
 






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