How to: Remove and replace door latch assembly

Door latch removal and replacement.

I encountered this common problem on my 98 explorer and could not find a good how-to online. The symptoms I was experiencing were problems unlocking the door. To unlock the door I had to work the interior door handle while hitting the power button to get the door open. The power actuator on it's own would not unlock the door. The small spring in the latch assembly had broken, I re-bent it once but it broke a 2nd time so I decided to replace the latch assembly. My interior handle also broke leaving me unable to open the door.

This removal and replacement can be done by the knowledgeable enthusiast, but if you have large hands with fat fingers you may struggle. The following procedure worked on my 98, but your mileage my vary.

1. Remove the door panel and peel back the liner. If you can't get the door panel off you probably need to stop and seek help. If you are in the same situation as me and can't get the door open because of the broken interior handle you can roll down the window and pop the top of the door panel out of the track at the top with a flat screwdriver. This will allow you to get your arm in and manipulate the rod to open the door.

2. With the door open roll the window up and remove the window track at the rear edge of the window. There is a bolt at the bottom of the track, remove this bolt and lay the track down in the bottom of the door.

3. Remove the interior door handle. There are two screws to remove then slide it towards the front of the car and pull. You can then rotate it off of the rod.

4. Remove the two wiring connectors from the latch assembly. The larger one has a clip, and the smaller one in the upper corner just pulls off.

5. Locate the rod that goes from the latch assembly to the exterior door handle. Open the clip on the latch end to free the rod and leave it hanging free. Count how many threads are exposed or mark the bar so you can install it in the same place on the new assembly.

6. Use a large phillips screw driver to remove the three screws holding the latch assembly in place. You may have to use a pair of vice grips on the screw driver handle for leverage.

7. With the latch assembly free in the door pull it down to free the bar that runs to the lock button from the sheet metal at the top of the door. Leave it hanging from the latch assembly.

8. Work the end of the bar that runs from the lock assembly to the lock cylinder free of the rubber clips on the arm on the back of the cylinder.

9. Take the entire assembly and rotate it to free it from the J on the end of the rod from the actuator on the bottom of the door. Work the assembly out of the door with the interior handle rod, door lock button rod, and lock cylinder rod still attached.

10. Transfer the interior handle rod, door lock button rod, and lock cylinder rod to the new lock assembly. There is a tab in the top corner of of the assembly where the smaller wiring connector slides on, make sure it is bent out perpendicular so you can slide the connector on.

11. Insert the new assembly into the door and rotate it over the J bend on the end of the rod coming form the lock actuator. Make sure that you are not trapping the wiring or the exterior handle rod behind the assembly.

12. Hook the lock cylinder rod through the rubber clips on the arm on the back of the cylinder.

13. Insert the lock button bar through the hole in the sheet metal at the top of the door.

14. Screw the latch assembly down with the three existing screws through the edge of the door.

15. Use the plastic clip to attach the exterior door handle rod to the latch assembly.

16. Connect the two wiring connectors.

17. Reinstall the interior door handle.

18. Reinstall the window track. It snaps into place at the top then replace the bolt at the bottom.

18. Make sure everything works! Don't shut the door yet, just make sure the power lock works, and the dor unlocks when you pull the interior handle. Use a screwdriver to close the latch jaws and make sure the interior handle releases them. You should now be able to shut and reopen the door and make sure the window goes up and down.

NOTES : During this process a mirror may help you see what is going on. If you need a reference for reassembly take the door panel off of the other door to look at.

There may be a better way to do this, but this is what I know worked on my 98.

 

[robertsc]

When that spring failed on mine I could not find a replacement spring so I bought the whole latch, took the spring out of the new latch and put it in the old one.

It can be done while the old one is still in the door, it just takes some patience, a good pair of slim needle-nose pliers, and a flashlight.

Hmm, $40 for a spring. You'd think someone would make an OEM or some such replacement somewhere. I wonder where Ford gets their's.

 

[rydrew55]

3 doors all have different problems

Excuse me for jumping on this thread, but I have 3 doors with 3 different problems. Do you think this procedure will be needed on all 3?

They all lock and unlock ok with the remote and with the button.

Driver door - very loose outside handle but does open it. Inside handle works too. Key does not lock or unlock. Just spins 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock.

Passenger door - everything works except the key. Does not turn at all.

Rear driver side- will not open from inside. Does not open from outside except once in a while it will if you pull real hard on the handle.

Just finished an engine swap on a 98 I picked up cheap, now I have a few nagging problems.

Thanks

 

[robertsc]

Three doors, three problems. The loose handle one probably will involve taking the door panel off and fixing or replacing the handle as in the thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165081 . The rest you will also have to take the door panel off and see what is happening. Somehow I think the inability to open with the key is going to relate to where the rod connects to the cylinder and where it goes down to the key lock, unlock lever. That might be the root of the problem but until you open up the panels to look you won't know. It seems that when the spring in the bottom of the latch breaks it causes all sorts of problems. Also a seized actuator can prevent the locks from working since it does the lock unlock thing on the lock unlock lever.

It is possible that if the cylinder won't unlock (won't turn at all and seems to be still locked) your key is worn and won't work the cylinder. I would try a little oil or lock lubricant to see if that helps. Otherwise, you might want to take the cylinder out and down to a locksmith so he can make a key that will unlock it and all the others.

Sounds like you might want to invest in three latches, three actuators, and a handle and then get to work. I'd start with fixing the driver's door since that is the most immediate safety issue. One thing I'd recommend, if there was anything I did first, it would be to make sure that all the doors OPEN with the INSIDE handle since that is the single most important thing one needs to be able to do when in an automobile, i.e., to GET OUT in an emergency!

Make sure you open up the panels to find out what is and isn't working. Make sure you check all the rod and lock cylinder plastic clips to make sure they are still attached in the right place and unbroken.

 

[Mattb901c31]

Removing door panel

Both my door handles are broken and my door will not open, how can I get my door panel off so I can replace both door handles and fix the problem?

 

[J_C]

Both my door handles are broken and my door will not open, how can I get my door panel off so I can replace both door handles and fix the problem?

The door panel is held on with standard plastic rivets, find or make a pry tool with a 90'+ angle in it that forks at the business end to get around both sides of each rivet and pop them out. Maybe a narrow, metal bladed putty knife could be fashioned into this tool. Here is a picture of a few, bend it more than those are so you have clearance with the door shut.

I don't recall how many inches of reach into the panel side you need to get around the rivets, maybe 1-2" but that's just a random guess. If the seats are in the way you might have to take them out.

 

[robertsc]

See if the instruction in paragraph number one of the very FIRST post on this thread (page 1) will help you. (Note, read ALL of the posts and understand ALL of the nuances before commencing this project for real!)

 

[WILL D]

door latch removal and replacement.

I encountered this common problem on my 98 explorer and could not find a good how-to online. The symptoms i was experiencing were problems unlocking the door. To unlock the door i had to work the interior door handle while hitting the power button to get the door open. The power actuator on it's own would not unlock the door. The small spring in the latch assembly had broken, i re-bent it once but it broke a 2nd time so i decided to replace the latch assembly. My interior handle also broke leaving me unable to open the door.

This removal and replacement can be done by the knowledgeable enthusiast, but if you have large hands with fat fingers you may struggle. The following procedure worked on my 98, but your mileage my vary.

1. Remove the door panel and peel back the liner. If you can't get the door panel off you probably need to stop and seek help. If you are in the same situation as me and can't get the door open because of the broken interior handle you can roll down the window and pop the top of the door panel out of the track at the top with a flat screwdriver. This will allow you to get your arm in and manipulate the rod to open the door.

2. With the door open roll the window up and remove the window track at the rear edge of the window. There is a bolt at the bottom of the track, remove this bolt and lay the track down in the bottom of the door.

3. Remove the interior door handle. There are two screws to remove then slide it towards the front of the car and pull. You can then rotate it off of the rod.

4. Remove the two wiring connectors from the latch assembly. The larger one has a clip, and the smaller one in the upper corner just pulls off.

5. Locate the rod that goes from the latch assembly to the exterior door handle. Open the clip on the latch end to free the rod and leave it hanging free. Count how many threads are exposed or mark the bar so you can install it in the same place on the new assembly.

6. Use a large phillips screw driver to remove the three screws holding the latch assembly in place. You may have to use a pair of vice grips on the screw driver handle for leverage.

7. With the latch assembly free in the door pull it down to free the bar that runs to the lock button from the sheet metal at the top of the door. Leave it hanging from the latch assembly.

8. Work the end of the bar that runs from the lock assembly to the lock cylinder free of the rubber clips on the arm on the back of the cylinder.

9. Take the entire assembly and rotate it to free it from the j on the end of the rod from the actuator on the bottom of the door. Work the assembly out of the door with the interior handle rod, door lock button rod, and lock cylinder rod still attached.

10. Transfer the interior handle rod, door lock button rod, and lock cylinder rod to the new lock assembly. There is a tab in the top corner of of the assembly where the smaller wiring connector slides on, make sure it is bent out perpendicular so you can slide the connector on.

11. Insert the new assembly into the door and rotate it over the j bend on the end of the rod coming form the lock actuator. Make sure that you are not trapping the wiring or the exterior handle rod behind the assembly.

12. Hook the lock cylinder rod through the rubber clips on the arm on the back of the cylinder.

13. Insert the lock button bar through the hole in the sheet metal at the top of the door.

14. Screw the latch assembly down with the three existing screws through the edge of the door.

15. Use the plastic clip to attach the exterior door handle rod to the latch assembly.

16. Connect the two wiring connectors.

17. Reinstall the interior door handle.

18. Reinstall the window track. It snaps into place at the top then replace the bolt at the bottom.

18. Make sure everything works! Don't shut the door yet, just make sure the power lock works, and the dor unlocks when you pull the interior handle. Use a screwdriver to close the latch jaws and make sure the interior handle releases them. You should now be able to shut and reopen the door and make sure the window goes up and down.

Notes : During this process a mirror may help you see what is going on. If you need a reference for reassembly take the door panel off of the other door to look at.

There may be a better way to do this, but this is what i know worked on my 98.

thanks for this post, it's just what i needed.

 

[J_C]

Will D, if you have some thin needle nose pliers, patience and a flashlight you do not have to take apart the door or replace the mechanism, assuming it is the same spring in the latch that *most* people have had break and that you can get the door open. You can then replace that by taking one off a new latch and sticking it in through the exterior latch opening. It may take a few minutes of trial and error to get it on but it definitely took a LOT less time and effort than replacing the whole latch mechanism.

Just be sure to observe exactly how the spring goes on before taking it off the new latch.

If you instead want to replace the whole latch anyway, I would suggest looking at where the spring broke and using a file and sandpaper to smooth that latch contact point with the spring then grease it liberally to decrease the wear on it. Granted, if it's a '98 now with 13 years of use on it the new spring may not fail before the vehicle is retired but I always like to try to do a *permanent* fix if reasonably possible... if it's going to take all the time to tear the door open/etc.

 

[rich3803]

Appreciate this information... it made my work a lot easier.
Thank you very much!

 

[robertsc]

Sometimes it is not the latch but a malfunctioning actuator that is preventing the lock unlock lever to get into the right position. Be absolutely sure the spring is broken before replacing it. I never did get the idea of why once one had everything opened up why one didn't replace top to bottom (latch and actuator) so as to avoid issues in the future.

 

[J_C]

^ well, if you have a new latch or another door working to compare, you can see IF the spring is in place or broken so it popped off where it should be.

 

[jbartlett67]

it's amazing what a simple google search will turn up haha. i had no clue how many people were having the same problem i had. can anyone tell me where they got the latch mechanism from? google search isn't quite as helpful with that one and the dealership wants $90+ for the part...

I found it on Parts.com for around $65. Getting ready to tackle mine... good luck!

 

[railspeed]

my 2002 explorer rear hatch won't latch/lock

 

[robertsc]

I think I posted above a link to how to replace the rear latch or rear actuator assembly.

 

[kmasnowboarding]

Spring

Does anyone have a picture of where the 2 ends of the spring hook onto? Mine was broken off so I was not able to see where it was suppose to hook on. I'd really appreciate it.

 

[J_C]

Does anyone have a picture of where the 2 ends of the spring hook onto? Mine was broken off so I was not able to see where it was suppose to hook on. I'd really appreciate it.

Edit: Description below elaborates on pictures in subsequent post.

If you look into the lock mechanism while mounted on the door still, about 1-3/4" back there is a vertical metal bar in the middle of the mechanism which is visible running from behind the upper latching pawl spring to behind the lower latching pawl spring (it is not attached to them). This vertical metal bar has a slot in it which a piece with a T-shaped end on it slides along. If looking at the driver's side mechanism, that T-shaped end is closer to the right side of the lock, also at about 1-3/4" depth inside.

The bottom of the spring goes around the neck of this T-shaped piece, just behind the ears of the T. If I remember correctly, that end of the spring is the end with the long straight section on it. The other end of the spring is mounted through a hole in the top of the mechanism housing which is directly above the upper pawl spring, so from the outside of the door the spring looks vertical but the top mounting position is closer to the edge of the door than the rear to it is sitting horizontally in the mechanism.

Getting the bottom end around the T-shaped piece is relatively easy, getting the top in takes a lot of patience and thin/long needle nose pliers. There is a big hole the whole top, hook end of the spring will pass through (pulling up and forward till it just about hits against the rear of the upper pawl spring, then going up 1/4" further through the hole, then pushing away from the door edge a bit to get it to seat in the second tiny hole).

 

[kmasnowboarding]

Spring

Actually we fiddled around with it and figured out the spring is just needed for stabilization and got it to work. Thanks anyway!

 

[J_C]

Actually we fiddled around with it and figured out the spring is just needed for stabilization and got it to work. Thanks anyway!

How did you get it to work? On mine, I sprayed some lube in when it first broke and it started working again (spring was definitely broken at that point), but then a few weeks later it wouldn't anymore and lube didn't help so I swapped the new spring in which is still working... don't remember when I did it, a few years ago.

I just took a couple pics in case they help anyone...

 

[palantir]

I had the spring issue as well. However, I noticed that if you lift the arm that goes to the handle up a bit, the problem goes away. I assume that the spring takes care of that normally. I tested my theory with a rubber band, all good. So for about $3.50 I bought a spring at Lows and installed that.

So far it works well. I had to bend the spring ends a bit and add a loop of wire but likely ACE or Dale Hardware would have had a better spring selection.

The handle has two places for the rod attachment but only one is used since it goes on both sides of the car. I attached a spring to the unused side. The other side goes to the bottom of the rod where the plastic connector is. Just make a loop of metal to go around it and hook the spring. It only took about 5 minutes to install. Just make sure to get a light duty spring.

Cheers

 

[jtanks]

door latch assembly

Quick question my door opens only from door handle but locks by all ie. remote, key, etc. Is this the spring or the latch itself?