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How To: Repair A/C "Fresh Air/Recirc" Door

Discussion in 'Stock 2002 - 2005 Explorers' started by EyeintheSky57, May 12, 2011.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. silent3k

    silent3k New Member

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    2000 ford explorer
    i have a 2000 ford explorer and recently i was messing around with my a/c and all of a sudden it stopped throwing cold air out of the front vents.. all it throws is cold thru the feet and defrost.. and when i move the control it doesnt do anything.. can someone help
     
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  3. BigRondo

    BigRondo USMC 1371 Elite Explorer Moderator Emeritus

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    Welcome aboard!! :salute:

    This is the sub-forum for the 3rd Generation Explorers (2002-2005). You will have better luck posting in the 2nd Generation Sub-Forum (1995-2001)

    Stock 1995 - 2001
    Explorers Questions related to non-modified 1995-2001 Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger and '02+ Sports and Sport Trac. Problem solving, maintenance, TSB, service bulletins, owner reviews, specifications.

    Click here to go there now!

    Good luck getting it sorted. :thumbsup:
     
  4. mikal_r

    mikal_r New Member

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    Just tackled this yesterday and I must say it wasn't and easy task, but it wasn't rocket science either. What a difference it has made though! Now I don't have to hear the wife telling me that she's freezing on her side when I'm burning up in the driver's seat. Thank God for this site! It has helped me alot with my 04 XLT.
     
  5. Bubba_1972

    Bubba_1972 New Member

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    Similar issues with my 2003 Explorer

    Eyeinthesky57, this has been an invaluable post. Awesome job with descriptions and pictures. it has been most helpful. :thumbsup:

    I too have been having similar issues with my 2003 Explorer. I took out the dash and "repaired" the fresh air door. It was in fact sitting on the top of the fan just as described in the above posts. My repair however was a lot like Frank Martini's, I too drilled a small hole in the end of the "nub" and used a small screw and washer to hold it in. I considered using Gorilla Glue also but thought better of it in the event it needed to be taken back apart. So using the same drill bit I drilled into the end on the "bell crank assembly" where the actuator attaches to the fresh air door and secured it with an 1 5/8" sheet rock screw. (Basically the other side that falls off) Thank you Frank Martini for describing this simple repair.

    My other issue however, is the air flow will not change from floor to vent to defrost. Air only blows thru the defrost and floor vents at the same time. Which makes it almost impossible to completely clear the windshield. Does anyone know what my next step should be? My dash is mostly out, just need to finish disconnecting the rest of the driver side.....(wires and such). I would hate to reassemble this thing with it still not working well enuff to satisfy the wife. Does anyone have a breakdown of the inner workings of the "heater box" where this takes place? AND.....how exactly to take it out/repair it?

    Any further assistance would be greatly appreciated. I would love to get this back together and working before winter is over.
     
  6. mikal_r

    mikal_r New Member

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    Bubba_1972 I had the same issue when fixing mine. I came to find out after I put everything back together that there's another door that had fallen off that's right behind the radio. It was a pain to get to, but with a lot of patience I was able to get it done. Hope this helps.
     
  7. lopez8971

    lopez8971 New Member

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    This Forum ROCKS!!!
    I've Fixed this door and the head to feet door too!
    Thanks!!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAtbFg_030s

    Also, here's a tip when cleaning out the leaves.
    Use a blower where the fan goes and a wet and dry vac up top it took 20 seconds to clean!
     
  8. Duranged84

    Duranged84 Active Member

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    Im in the process of doing a complete interior swap from my 03 Expy to my 03 Mounty, getting rid of abused, nasty tan interior. Have another thread about it. But this is helping a lot. Im down to pulling the first dash. Do I need to unhook all of the connections on the steering column or is there a main harness I can unhook? Got dark and cold before I could investigate much farther after pulling rest of interior. Does the column stay connected to the dash for removal or do I take the 4 big mounting nuts off too and pull it separate? I plan to swap my ignition cylinder from the Mounty, but not seeing the "nub" to release the cylinder, is it under the plastic wire channel?

    while the dash is out, I need to replace the heater core, anybody have pointers for that? Maybe without disconnecting the ac? I dont mind cutting the box if its an option. I know both trucks fresh air doors are off, and the mounty needs a blend motor, I rebuilt the one on the expy about a year ago using the motors from the rear hvac so thats not a big deal. How can I test the rest of the actuators while I have everything apart? The mounty currently isnt changing vents properly. I have not checked the rear hvac on the Mounty yet, I know it doesnt click, but I havent looked to see if they unplugged the harness in the back or taken the time to check operation. I also have the joy of swapping the rear heater hoses/lines, Have a nasty leak under the passenger floor board, Im guessing from where the previous owner ran over something and broke the running board all to crap. Wanting to get this thing done, just bought it a week ago and between the heater cores being bypassed and the broken fresh air door, its chilly at night lol.
     
  9. dah

    dah New Member

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  10. dah

    dah New Member

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    Followed instructions - at the point of pulling dash - passenger side moves about 6" , driver side won't budge even an inch. Any suggestions? Thanks for the write up.
     
  11. icepickjazz

    icepickjazz Active Member

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    I just repaired this week on mine. The driver's side was a little more stubborn, but eventually moved. I found it easier to have a second person help move the passenger side dash while I moved the drivers side. Once the passengers side was out a little it was easer to move the drivers side. Wiggle/Tilt dash up & down helped a little too.

    Double checking the steps and thinking where binding might occur, did you get the outside dash bolt, remove the dash brace on the driver's side, remove the steering wheel bolt, and remove the A pillar trim?
     
  12. dah

    dah New Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply. Rechecked work - aha - I had remove the wrong out side dash bolt under the black trim by the windshield wiper. It was to the right of the correct one. Got it now.
    Thanks
     
  13. Number4

    Number4 "I'm counting to 3, then I'm getting your dad." Elite Explorer

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    I've pulled a few dashes at the wrecking yards. None of these of course had their AC intact. The manuals I've read say to discharge the AC system prior to removing the dash.
    Anyone know why it states this?
     
  14. sfbayjay

    sfbayjay Active Member

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    Lots of the original pics seem to be missing - maybe dead links? Any chance to fix the post - thanks!
     
  15. Duranged84

    Duranged84 Active Member

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    Check my dash removal thread and 4x4 conversion thread for pics.
     
  16. RVAdams

    RVAdams New Member

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    Replace Fresh Air Door W/O Removing Dash

    In the interest of giving back, the fresh air door (fad) dropped down to the fan on my 04 XLT. To the Exporer Forum I went, only to find horror stories of $700 dealer repairs, multiple hour DIYers attempting the same. As a 40 year flatrater, my initial response was "horses arse." I discovered the fresh air door "crank," operated by the vacuum actuator had seperated itself from the door. Here in numerical order is the process I used to fix the fallen fresh air door w/o removing the dash.

    1. remove glove box, fan motor, right side kick panel,
    2. remove all the screws you can see that hold the fresh air door housing (box) together. This is the clamshell box with open grill you can see through behind the glove box. Normally, you would be able to see the fresh air door (fad) through the openings in the grill. This includes removing the far forward screw on each side. The one on the right side (passenger side) is difficult, but removing the kick panel helped, along with removing the wire harness from it's mount and placing it behind/outside it's norman attatchment.You might be able to leave that one in, but I took it out.
    3. Cut an X across the plastic mesh between the fallen fad and the fan motor. This is to keep leaves etc. out of the fan. With the mesh cut you can fit your hand (usually) into the fad housing.
    4. Remove the fad vacuum actuator. Also, completely remove metal bracket/support from left side of fad housing
    5. Pry the fad housing open from the rear (side you are facing) with whatever gets it done. Install blocks (be creative, think grip, not slip) on both sides of the housing as you jack it open to keep it open. I had nearly an inch of opening on mine. Just enough to get the fall fad out is the goal, more needlessly stresses the plastic.
    6. My fad was fine, just the crank was seperated from the door. Looks like it was a two piece design that may have been glued together, or if not, was just assembled free style. The crank (operated by the vacuum pod) and the door can only be assembled one way (yay ford!).
    6. After removing the fad and discovering nothing was really broke, just the crank seperated, I decided to super glue the crank back onto the fad. (yea, I know...)
    7. Cleaned attatchment areas of crank and fad, install fad into housing the same way it came out. I suggest attaching the vacuum can to the actuating arm first (since I forgot to) and became a problem after the fact.
    8. I used white out to draw an alignment mark on both the fad and the crank just help me see what I was doing, though assembly position is singular. I applied thin super glue to crank, held fad in alignment with my left hand inside the fan opening and attatched the crank through its opening in the fad housing with my right hand. I strongly suggest you practice this a bit without glue before going "live." Unless of course you just want to reassemble.
    9. Make sure the fad crank is fully assembled to the fad, and do so quickly if you are glueing as I did. Instructions on my glue said to use sparingly and only to one part, not both. (I'm kindof a cluts these days, almost glued my fingers together...be careful !)
    10. This is interesting, I noticed the vac actuator placed heavy pressure on the fad crank, way more than was required to open it, or close. IMO, way too much force in both directions and probably attributed the system breakdown. I don't know why so much force on plastic to block air. We're not going 200mph here!. So, I'm wondering if ford has a upgrade vacuum actuator or if I'm going to have to make a $2 fix on their PDH engineered design...
    11. Anyway, that's my story and I'm sticken' to it :) Hope this helps someone as this forum has helped me. If I come up with a solution to the stupidly overdone pressures on a plastic door in a plastic housing to control air that obviously fails more often than not, I'll post. God bless all.
    12, ps, found this later, the answer to my last question, and a mod I'll make to my vac motor. See link Below and scroll to bottom.

    http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274510&highlight=fresh+air+door+actuator
     
    Last edited: October 7, 2015
  17. doctorroboto

    doctorroboto New Member

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    Any way we can get those original pictures back? The instructions on this thread and on the Denlors page just aren't enough for me to figure out how to do this reliably.
     

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