How to: How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings

[storlied]

So it's alright to spin the carrier, seems like you have to.. to get access to the c-clips... and it keeps the spider gears (which are the side ones?) in place because of the pinion gear not spinning them oposite of each other, like when you turn one wheel, the other turns the other way?...or wait.. thats the front in an open diff.. I have a l/s in the rear.... gah... and is the fill hole up top with the weird thing in it you need a socket wrench for, but no socket? looks like a square hole..

 

[gavin]

So it's alright to spin the carrier, seems like you have to.. to get access to the c-clips... and it keeps the spider gears (which are the side ones?) in place because of the pinion gear not spinning them oposite of each other, like when you turn one wheel, the other turns the other way?...or wait.. thats the front in an open diff.. I have a l/s in the rear.... gah... and is the fill hole up top with the weird thing in it you need a socket wrench for, but no socket? looks like a square hole..

you rotate it around WITH the pin in place, to get access to the c-clips.

umm.. hard to explain... basically, when I rotated it to get enough room to remove the pin, I was also able to get to the c-clips.

and if you rotate the axle shafts, it will spin the pinion gear also.

and yes, the fill hole requires a standard 3/8" ratchet with atleast 3" extension.

 

[turboexplorer]

The L/S springs are what can be a pain in the ass to get back in. They aren't light springs. Just be careful if you do need to turn the carrier and both shafts will have to turn all at the same time. Usually you can pull the pin push the axles in a little from the wheel side of the axle and then get in there with a magnet extension tool from like sears and you can pull the c clips out easy

 

[storlied]

To be able to turn the carrier, I have to disconnect the driveshaft.. correct? (and of course, this is with both wheels off the ground so both axle shafts can turn with the carrier..)

 

[gavin]

or put the transmission in neutral.
either way works :

 

[storlied]

I tried that when doing my ujoints for the rear driveshaft, I ended up having to move the vehicle here n there because the rear shaft didn't wanna turn very well with the front sitting there on the ground...

 

[gavin]

I tried that when doing my ujoints for the rear driveshaft, I ended up having to move the vehicle here n there because the rear shaft didn't wanna turn very well with the front sitting there on the ground...

with both rear tires in the air?
if only 1 rear was in the air, then yes I could see that due to the limited slip.

 

[storlied]

nono, I was trying to turn the rear shaft with all 4 wheels on the ground. (with the rear shaft disconnected from the rear axle) It's no wonder why it didn't turn.. considering the rear and front are still connected no matter what through the VC... it would turn but it was hard to turn and it wanted to move the whole vehicle... I think I'm just getting two separate things mixed up... sorry..

 

[gavin]

nono, I was trying to turn the rear shaft with all 4 wheels on the ground. (with the rear shaft disconnected from the rear axle) It's no wonder why it didn't turn.. considering the rear and front are still connected no matter what through the VC... it would turn but it was hard to turn and it wanted to move the whole vehicle... I think I'm just getting two separate things mixed up... sorry..

haha, yes.
With all 4 tires on the ground, regardless of which end the rear shaft is disconnected from, you can't turn it without attempting to move the vehicle at the same time :

 

[storlied]

I would have Thought since there wasn't any slip to solidify the viscious fluid, it would be smoother?... guess it's a lot tighter under normal situations than I thought.

 

[Bill_Williams]

i am trying to get info on how to replace a front heel bearing on a 1996 ford explorer sport 4wd

This is a lot easier to do than you would think. You will need only a few tools to complete this installation. The front wheel bearings come as a complete unit (wheel hub assembly). This assembly costs about $340.00 at a Ford Dealership but can be purchased on line for considerably less. I purchased two on eBay for $185.00 including shipping. The assembly also comes with ABS sensor so note how existing harness clips to frame and spindle (8 mm Bolt). Before jacking up the vehicle loosen wheel studs and CV shaft bolt with 32 mm socket and breaker bar.

Jack up vehicle and secure jack stands. Remove wheel and unbolt brake caliper and secure with wire hanger or bungee cord. Do not let caliper hang on brake line. A 15 mm box wrench and/or socket is required to remove caliper bolts. If bolts are frozen use a breaker bar or wrap the end of the box wrench with a ball peen hammer to break bolt free. Remove rotor to expose hub assembly and spray bolts with WD 40 or similar (both ends). The three 15 mm bolts holding the wheel hub assembly cannot be accessed with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar due to the CV boot. But all three are easily accessed with a 15 mm box wrench. Use a quality one because you may be exerting a lot of pressure to break out these bolts. Where the loosening direction was upwards I placed a floor jack under the end of the box wrench and jacked them loose. Where the loosening direction was downwards a few medium wraps with a ball peen sufficed.

When the bolts are out a couple of soft wraps on the old hub breaks it loose and it falls off the CV Joint spline shaft. Clean the old surfaces carefully and spread a light coating of grease on the new surfaces bolt the new hub assembly in place, torque to 125 ft/pds, route new ABS harness and plug it in, reinstall calipers (might be a good time to replace disc pads) replace 32 mm CV shaft bolt (torque to 175 ft/pds.)

Before I started I purchased a 3/8 breaker bar and a complete universal adapter kit and I rented a slide hammer because I was informed that these tools were necessary to get access to the retaining bolts around the CV boot and pull the old hub off the CV shaft. I didn’t need any of them.

Good luck and you should be finished in less than two hours. I changed my CV axle assemblies and redid the brakes in less than 3 hours each side.

 

[gavin]

This is a lot easier to do than you would think. You will need only a few tools to complete this installation. The front wheel bearings come as a complete unit (wheel hub assembly). This assembly costs about $340.00 at a Ford Dealership but can be purchased on line for considerably less. I purchased two on eBay for $185.00 including shipping. The assembly also comes with ABS sensor so note how existing harness clips to frame and spindle (8 mm Bolt). Before jacking up the vehicle loosen wheel studs and CV shaft bolt with 32 mm socket and breaker bar.

Jack up vehicle and secure jack stands. Remove wheel and unbolt brake caliper and secure with wire hanger or bungee cord. Do not let caliper hang on brake line. A 15 mm box wrench and/or socket is required to remove caliper bolts. If bolts are frozen use a breaker bar or wrap the end of the box wrench with a ball peen hammer to break bolt free. Remove rotor to expose hub assembly and spray bolts with WD 40 or similar (both ends). The three 15 mm bolts holding the wheel hub assembly cannot be accessed with a 1/2 inch drive ratchet or breaker bar due to the CV boot. But all three are easily accessed with a 15 mm box wrench. Use a quality one because you may be exerting a lot of pressure to break out these bolts. Where the loosening direction was upwards I placed a floor jack under the end of the box wrench and jacked them loose. Where the loosening direction was downwards a few medium wraps with a ball peen sufficed.

When the bolts are out a couple of soft wraps on the old hub breaks it loose and it falls off the CV Joint spline shaft. Clean the old surfaces carefully and spread a light coating of grease on the new surfaces bolt the new hub assembly in place, torque to 125 ft/pds, route new ABS harness and plug it in, reinstall calipers (might be a good time to replace disc pads) replace 32 mm CV shaft bolt (torque to 175 ft/pds.)

Before I started I purchased a 3/8 breaker bar and a complete universal adapter kit and I rented a slide hammer because I was informed that these tools were necessary to get access to the retaining bolts around the CV boot and pull the old hub off the CV shaft. I didn’t need any of them.

Good luck and you should be finished in less than two hours. I changed my CV axle assemblies and redid the brakes in less than 3 hours each side.

there really wasn't a need to reply to that post, since it's almost a year old... plus it was already answered.

 

[storlied]

you have to admit.. that was a pretty good post..

 

[Dennis1188]

"Here's a slightly fun part; you need to remove this bolt (9mm head, atleast in my case), then slide the pin out so that you can access the c-clips."

Hi guys,
I plan on removing both my rear axles for easier access to the parking brakes so I can change pads, etc., etc.
My first time so I want to be clear on how to do this… I see the “bolt” from your photo but I am a little confused about the “pin”? Is this the same thing?

Plus I hope these photos will work for a 96 sport.

 

[gavin]

"Here's a slightly fun part; you need to remove this bolt (9mm head, atleast in my case), then slide the pin out so that you can access the c-clips."

Hi guys,
I plan on removing both my rear axles for easier access to the parking brakes so I can change pads, etc., etc.
My first time so I want to be clear on how to do this… I see the “bolt” from your photo but I am a little confused about the “pin”? Is this the same thing?

Plus I hope these photos will work for a 96 sport.

the pin is in the center of carrier, and you can see it slightly slid out in the picture.

 

[Dennis1188]

Got it, THANKS, so just to make sure, once I remove that pin, i will see those C-Clips thru that opening.

 

[gavin]

once you remove the pin, you will then be able to push the axle-shafts inward, then you will see the c-clips, yup.

 

[Dennis1188]

OK
I am getting everything lined up so I can attempt this job on the weekend.
Do I need to get a new bolt or c-clips or just reuse all the parts?

 

[gavin]

you can re-use them. Unless, of course, they are broken, cracked, or otherwise damaged.

 

[Maniak]

Your "supposed" to replace that 9mm head bolt.. They even make a special tool to get that bolt out when/if it breaks.. and all the stories I've heard of them breaking are ones that were reused..

~Mark