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How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings

Discussion in 'Transmissions & Transfer Cases' started by gavin, May 3, 2008.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. 75Grandville

    75Grandville New Member

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    Thx and my experience

    Many thanks to Gavin and all those who followed up on this thread. I replaced the rear axle seals on my 2001 XLT 4x4 this weekend. Also did the bearings (while I'm in there, why not), and the rear brakes (the leaking seal had led to gear oil everywhere).

    Just a few random thoughts and observations based on my experience:

    1. The things that look like the sliders for the rear calipers are actually the bolts that hold them in place. Took me a while to figure that out.
    2. If you pull too hard on the diff cover, it will pop straight off backwards, you will get gear oil everywhere, and your 4 yr old daughter will laugh at you.
    3. The bolt that holds the pin in place is really tiny compared to the rest of the parts in the diff. Mine had an 8mm head.
    4. When your spider gears fall out because you failed to heed the advice, and moved the carrier, keep track of which shim goes with which gear, and where each gear came from. That way you can hopefully put them back where you found them. I used ziploc baggies, and labeled them so I knew where they went. Hasn't grenaded yet (100 miles +/-), so I think I got them back in correctly.
    5. If you have an Advance Auto Parts store nearby, get their loaner toolkit 41, which contains a slide hammer plus the good pullers. I used the middle sized one, whichever that was. Plus, call the store and make sure they have the tools before you go.
    6. Read the entire post before getting to work -- there's some really great tips buried in the middle.
    7. Again, many thanks to everyone who took the time to post to this thread. The local labor rate is $97.50/hr, so with the complete rear break job I figure I saved $500!
     
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  3. drdoom

    drdoom Well-Known Member

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    Put the lock shaft back in...

    I just did one of these, and once you pull the C clips, you can put the lock shaft and retaining bolt back in, and you don't have to worry about the spiders moving or falling out.
     
  4. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    that's a good point, and would certainly help prevent any accidents with the spider and side gears.
     
  5. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    Problem of understanding

    Hello everyone,

    I'm sorry but I do not quite understand this part *** :banghead:
    I think the Google translator does not give me the good words.

    could you please try to explain with words a little easier.

    Thank you very much for your assistance

    ***Here's a slightly fun part; you need to remove this bolt (9mm head, atleast in my case), then slide the pin out so that you can access the c-clips. Do not turn the axles after removing this, or you could spend a lot of time trying to get it back in! If you spin the axles, it will get the spider gears out of place, and could be a real pain to re-align.

    and I'm afraid of making a mistake


    [​IMG]


    Thank you very much for your assistance

    :exp:
     
  6. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    basically, do NOT rotate anything that could cause the carrier to rotate, without the crosspin in place.

    If the carrier rotates, it would cause the spider and side gears to rotate out of place. From what I've read, it can be fairly difficult to get them back in place while still being able to get the cross-pin back in.
     
  7. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    :thumbsup: Ok thank you very much GAVIN if I understand you correctly. I can translate that way??

    "everything not to carry out what could be a rotation of the coach mechanical gears without the cross shaft in place."

    you will agree with me

    Thank you very much


    :exp:
     
  8. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    yes, that is correct.
     
  9. baphomet666

    baphomet666 Active Member

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    Ok Thanks Gavin.

    I am also concerned for those in front and everything went well.

    but could you advise me to avoid this error.

    Thank you very much
     
  10. 86isuzu

    86isuzu New Member

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    I know, holy old thread batman

    I am having a B!TCH of a time removing the wheel bearings. Seals were a pain too, but not really that bad. I've got this:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
    from harbor freight. I've tried heating the axle tube with propane, with no luck.
    I'm half-tempted to stick a sawzall in there and cut out slices of the fricking bearing. :(
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  11. kdbstl

    kdbstl New Member

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    It will be worth your while to get the rear bearing puller kit from an auto part store rent a tool. I have that blind puller set also and it doesn't work worth a shit on these type of bearings. The rear set has the folding type puller with a heavier hammer. It only takes a few hits and they're out. I had a lot of miles on mine and this set did the trick. They look like these. http://www.harborfreight.com/rear-axle-bearing-puller-set-66380.html
     
  12. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    blind hole bearing puller is most definitely not the correct tool for the wheel bearings.

    [​IMG]

    those are what you need. Got a Schmucks/O'Reilly's near? They used to rent the slide hammer kit with bearing puller attachments
     
  13. kdbstl

    kdbstl New Member

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    Thanks for this thread Gavin. I did mine last summer and even though it did not solve my whining issue it did take the chatter out. Next is to replace the pinion bearing on mine.
     
  14. 86isuzu

    86isuzu New Member

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    Ok thanks. on my way to autozone
     
  15. 86isuzu

    86isuzu New Member

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    Success! That wasn't so hard. Guess it helps having the right tool.
    Thanks for the assistance
     
  16. patrioty3k

    patrioty3k New Member

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    Rear axle seals

    Thanks guys,in the process of replaceing wifes 2000 explorer wicked leaking seals!
     
  17. Henry145

    Henry145 New Member

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    Replacing rear bearing and seals.

    Thanks for the pictures and instructions on how to replace rear wheel bearings. I gave it a try and found it not that hard to do. My two problems were the parts house loaned me the wrong bearing puller and I had a time getting the fill plug out. Other than that all went well and because of your excellent pictures I knew what to look for. Thanks again.
    Henry
     
  18. oswegostude1

    oswegostude1 New Member

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    Plz help

    How can you change the rear axil seal on a 07 ford ranger if the rear end is welded up
     
  19. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    not sure I understand.
    Although I dont' know what kind of drivetrain the later model Rangers have, but I would expect an 8.8"

    what do you mean the rear end is welded up? as in lincoln locker?
     
  20. oswegostude1

    oswegostude1 New Member

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    How to change seal on a welded rear end

    its a 4 10 rear end and what i mean by rear end welded up mean i welded the spider gires up so how can i replace the rear axel left side bearin seal
     
  21. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    that would be called a lincoln locker :p:

    the steps are exactly the same though.
    Even though the spider gears are welded together, you can still get to the cross shaft
     

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