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How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings

Discussion in 'Transmissions & Transfer Cases' started by gavin, May 3, 2008.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. ffpmme

    ffpmme New Member

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    OK so remove the c clips, start getting the axle out then put the cross pin. I think that is the best plan.

    I was planing on doing both seals, but the bearings is optional. Where is a good bearing. I was going to get the seals at NAPA.

    Will post as it comes togther.

    Edit: What is the code to find out if your dif is a limited slip? Since I have a 5.0 w/ 3.73 and AWD I wasassuming that I had that dif, but I am not sure. If I used gear oil for the limited slip, in a non dif would it matter? Guess I just want to get one oil. Was thinking of using Royal Purple. Any thoughts?
     
    Last edited: August 19, 2012
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  3. drdoom

    drdoom Well-Known Member

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    Look on the door jamb sticker...should be an AXLE code there.

    PS: Just get some Lucas full synthetic 75/140 IIRC.
     
  4. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    I try and find Timken bearings.

    the V8's came OEM with a limited slip.
    depending on the gear lube you get, you may not need to add any friction modifier.
    I never added friction modifier with either Mobil1 full synthetic lube or with Royal Purple and I've never noticed any issues.
     
  5. swampfox21

    swampfox21 New Member

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    Just pull the c clip and put the pin back in...then you won't have to worry about the spider gears falling out....Reinstall the axel using the reversa process.
     
  6. ffpmme

    ffpmme New Member

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    I found the bearing @ my local Farm and Fleet. The royal Purple has the modifer in it. That si what the bottle said.
     
  7. OSUChE

    OSUChE Arctic Explorer Elite Explorer

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    How much time left on my rear alxe bearings?

    Greetings Everyone,

    Thanks for a great write-up on the RWB replacement! More than I think I want to know, but grateful to know how none-the-less.

    I was replacing the rear brake (shoes and pads) on my 97 LTD and panicked when I felt the axle end-play!

    Reading in this thread that 1/32 in preferred, 1/16 livable, I broke-out the 'precision rule' good to a 1/64" inch and measured 1/16" (-) on the pass side and 1/16" (+) on the driver side.

    No diff leaks and have yet to check the fluid level (today). No noises from the back but this rig has made many heavy tows in its' life.

    Not wanting to REALLY do this now (time+$$) but??? Any comments are greatly appreciated!

    Rick
     
  8. ffpmme

    ffpmme New Member

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    Ok, so I did the job on Saturday and it could not have been any easier. Thanks to this thread I had the steps nearly memorized, and I think I was dreaming about it I was so paranoid of messing up!

    The we had a hiccup putting the c-clip back in the first time, it was not going back on easy, but we got it. Other side took about 5 seconds to get back on.

    At first thought the bearings were bad as well, but when we got the axel out and looked at it, the bearing, and what SHOULD have been a seal, we saw everything was a-ok!!!

    Have been driving now for a few days after the repair. Have no noise, leaks, or problems.

    So a HUGE THANK YOU to Gavin for posting the thread, and for the follow up.
     
  9. Wheel jack

    Wheel jack New Member

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    Ok, I'm doing this job today and I know this was probably answered here already but how the heck do I rotate the rear driveshaft to get at that bolt? It's in behind where I can't reach.
     
  10. gavin

    gavin Elite Explorer

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    either put trans in neutral or disconnect driveshaft and rotate the pinion.
     
  11. Wheel jack

    Wheel jack New Member

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    I have it in neutral, that doesn't seem to accomplish anything. I ll take a look at disconnecting
     
  12. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    What happens when you rotate the axle? It should rotate the entire assembly inside the pumpkin.

    ~Mark
     
  13. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    I took a pic of my axle when I had to change it and the bearing thanks to a bearing that must have been bad a while.

    I never noticed the noise from the bad bearing. I only found it because I was doing brakes (replacing the backing plate too) and noticed I could move the axle up/down which is NOT good.

    Here is an axle that has been run on a bad bearing.. The surface where the bearing was was worn into the axle .080".

    [​IMG]
    Axle after bad wheel bearing by maniak_az, on Flickr

    Luckily I had a set of spare shafts so I used one of my spares.

    ~Mark
     
  14. Wheel jack

    Wheel jack New Member

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    All i had to do was walk her down the driveway a couple feet to get everything rotated to where i could get at it. rotating the axle wasn't spinning the housing part, just the gears inside of it.
     
  15. Wheel jack

    Wheel jack New Member

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    and heres a pic titled - How you know when its time to replace your axle seal...
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Maniak

    Maniak Moderator-Stock 91-94 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Hrm.. Its been so long since I worked on an open diff I bet the issue was that only 1 side was spinning so you were getting the differential action hapening.

    At least you got it to turn.. It should be all down hill from here.

    ~Mark
     
  17. BWheetley

    BWheetley New Member

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    I replaced both sides this past week on my '02 ST. Borrowed the Master Axle tool kit from Advanced Auto Parts. Worked like a charm. I highly recommend the slide hammer and bearing puller. Over all an easy process.

    I pushed the differential pin back in after removing the axles to prevent any misalignment should the gears turn for some reason.

    Here's the worst part I ran in to. Since gear oil had leaked on one of my drum brakes, I decided to install new shoes. I had no idea that drum brakes were such a pain in the :censored:. All those springs and making sure everything stays somewhat in place while you are trying to attached the springs to the right locations. I eventually got it done and everything seems to be working great now. (I have not had to stop fast so not sure if my antilock is working again as it wasn't with all the gear oil on the old shoes and drum.)

    Thanks to everyone for the input on this threat. Great info.
     
  18. dhewey71

    dhewey71 New Member

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    Just did mine today. Had no problems but I had help from someone who has done these before. Has a hell of a time getting the seals out. Ended up using a crowbar for those then a slide hammer for the bearings. We were able to turn the carrier while the pinion shaft was out and the gears did not fall out. There were no metal shavings or debris in the rear. Did it in about an hour and a half.

    Changed oil and filter and inspected the u-joints while I was at it since it was on the lift.

    Good experience. Looked exactly like it was in the pictures.

    2003 Explorer Sport Trac XLT
     
  19. ndchevycowboy

    ndchevycowboy New Member

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    Replace rear diff axle seals

    The pictures and discripsion were help full, when I replaced the rear diff axle seals. My bearings were good. When I had all this apart I replaced the e brake, rotors, and brake pads. The only problem I had was with the pinion bolt. It did not want to come out. I heated the area up and it came loose. The cost of every thing came to $145, were the repair shops wanted $500 to $550 do do the work.
     
  20. fattony812

    fattony812 New Member

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    rear axle

    Hey there , I replaced the seals in my 1994 explorer. when i went to put the second axle back in the spider gears and side gear fell into pumpkin . took about a half hour to re align everything or so i thought. now its like 2 weeks later and it seems like my axles are binding when i go from park to drive. The rear tires wont turn and i have to go in reverse a few feet then it will go into drive and the wheels will turn . what did i do wrong ?
     
  21. PopRichie77

    PopRichie77 Well-Known Member

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    I have no idea what you did wrong but I would say it has to come apart again and be checked.
     

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