How to test my A/C Glacier991 or anyone

[MadExplorer93]

Shamaal

I know it is a lengthy thread and i will try to sum it up for you.

1. A/C no work
2. Got friend who is mechanic does A/C
3. He got me to test jumper clutch works
4. LP valve is filled with oil
5. He got me to push valve and there is pressure inside
6. Not enough pressure inside to engage clutch when switch is plugged in
7. It was retrofitted to R-416A and R-416A fittings
8. My friend does not have the gauges for R-416A
9. Only one place in this town we know of does and that is the place that did the retrofit.
10. My friend mechanic will retrofit system with R-134A fittings and R-134A Refrigerant.
11. That includes vacuum the system.
12. R-416A oil is compatible with R-134A's oil... so we could use same Oil.
13. At the beginning since i did not know that much about A/C when people mentioned Clutch I thought they mean't the fan clutch. I did know the A/C had a clutch to engage until reading here and googling for information.
14. When i was talking about temps, i wanted to know is my temps normal for my truck.
15. Some will yes and some will say know, damn thing does seem to run hot even when you drive for 15 min WOW touch the hood it is hot, but gauge is in middle of NORMAL.

I hope that explains most of this thread.

 

[CDW6212R]

Listen to Shamaal. I would suggest changing the thermostat with a new 195 model. I read that the low pressure side of a FR12/R-416A system will run lower, the pressure switch needs to be changed to an 18psi model. The FR12 is supposed to be more efficient than R134, cool better with lower pressures.

If the conversion was done properly back then, I'd find the FR12 and charge it, after checking with proper gauges, checking the low pressure switch.

I loved the AC in my 86 Crown Vic with R12. I had it charged in 1991 when I bought it, it stayed very cold until about 1999. I paid just over $100 for freon when it had the AC clutch begin to fail. As long as the quick connect fittings have fresh o-rings and aftermarket locks on them, freon should not leak appreciably. Good luck,

 

[MadExplorer93]

Nobody in my town does FR-12 it is getting hard to find many places state and most shops will now convert to R-134A. The place that retrofitted my unit to R-416A i called about 5 min ago and no they will not recharge it with R-416A as they don't do that one anymore either. They basically said it would have to be retrofitted to R-134A like my friend mechanic told me.

The place that retrofitted mine to R-416A says that FR-12 is the replacement of R-12 and that R-416A was also a replacement for R-12 and like noted is getting harder to find as many vehicles today have R-134A so many shops don't do FR-12, R-12 and R-416A and that there is a slim chance of finding shops that still do those ones.

He did note that it may just need to be recharged... sure....but no one in this town does R-416A anymore....

Understand the fittings for R-416A is not the same as R-12 or R-134A.

I will change thermostat soon.

Now what PSI is R-134A on pressure switch run at? ........ as remember mine must have been changed to 18 PSI when R-416A was installed.

 

[ma96782]

IMHO........change the system to R-134a.

Then, once you got it changed......IF you still have an AC Problem......you could start with:

Air Conditioner: How does it work?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160498

Then it's on to:

What's wrong with my Air Conditioning?
A number of things can happen to make your A/C quit working. Here, we'll go over some of the common problems, and what you can do to fix it.

Leaks / Low Refrigerant
No A/C system is completely, 100% sealed. Over the years, small refrigerant particles will leak out, up to 1/2 ounce per year. On smaller-capacity systems, this will become noticeable a lot quicker than a larger capacity system. In this case, the most practical thing to do is simply add a bit more refrigerant. You will want to hook up a set of manifold gauges to make sure that the system has at least some pressure in it before you add refrigerant, because if the system is completely empty, you might have a most severe leak. At best, you will still have AIR in the system, and you want NO air in there.
Symptoms of low refrigerant include rapid cycling of the compressor clutch, or clutch will not engage, little or no cooling, very oily spots on A/C components.
A severe leak will require repair or component replacement. To find a leak, there must be some refrigerant in the system. An electronic 'sniffer' or dye are the most effective ways of finding a leak. Most A/C shops can perform this service for a minimal charge. Some retail auto parts stores also loan or rent tools for this.
Once the leak is identified, the component should be repaired or replaced, and the system serviced.
*Tip* - Evaporator leaks can be difficult to find, since the evaporator is usually not easily accessible, located in the dash of the vehicle. With dye in the system, place a white, preferably unused baby diaper under the evaporator drain tube. Moisture will drip on to the diaper. If there is dye in there, you'll know it!

Poor Airflow
One of the most-missed problems is poor airflow. Your A/C comes on, but it's not very cold. If you have a gauge, the high side pressure seems awfully high.
There are a couple of quick, easy things to check. First, make sure the condenser is debris-free, and that the fins are not all bent over. The condenser is located right in front of the radiator. Bugs, rocks, plastics bags, etc. covering the front of it prevent air from passing through, cooling not only your radiator, but also the refrigerant in the condenser.
All engines have either a fan clutch or radiator / condenser cooling fans. Fan clutch go out all the time. The fan clutch is located between the radiator and the engine, and has a big fan blade attached to it. With the engine on, that fan should be turning very fast, and moving a lot of air, TOWARDS the engine. Running correctly, you will not want to get your fingers near it. I recently repaired a 1996 Chevy truck that had blown the compressor shaft seal. While diagnosing the system, I noticed that the fan was barely turning. I could actually stop it with my hand. (not recommended for the non-professional) Because there was poor airflow, the pressure (pressure is temperature) built up from the condenser to the compressor, and was more than the compressor shaft seal could handle.
If the vehicle has an electric fan, make sure it (or they) comes on, and that the air is fast, and moving TOWARDS the engine. If the fan(s) does not come on, check the fuse. If that's not it, you may need to replace the fan.
*Tip* - You can confirm proper airflow by TEMPERATURE TESTING. A good thermometer that can be touched to the inlet and outlet of the condenser will confirm proper airflow. You should see a 20 to 40 degree drop from the inlet to the outlet of the 2 condenser pipes. For example, if you measure the temperature at the inlet (where it comes from the compressor) and have a temperature of 160 degrees, the outlet should be 100-140 degrees. Less than 20 degrees difference usually indicates poor airflow. MORE than 40 degrees usually indicates a restriction in the condenser.

Restrictions
A restiction is a condition where some piece of debris has lodged in a component, and is 'restricting' the flow of refrigerant. Condenser restrictions are the most common. Most late-model condensers have very small passages, as low as 6mms! When there is a restriction in the system, the flow of refrigerant is greatly slowed, or sometimes stopped completely. The blockage causes pressure to build up behind the restriction, and will cause damage to the components behind it.
The most effective way to locate a restriction is with temperature testing. With a good thermometer, temperature (which is pressure!) can be measured ANYWHERE on the system. Large drops in temperature can be identified and repaired. For example, a restircted condenser...If the inlet measures 160 degrees (about 295 psi) and the outlet measures 90 degrees (about 103 psi), it means the refrigerant is slowly leaking past a restriction. Because the refrigerant spends more time in the condenser, it has time to cool of more. Problem is, that 295 psi will continue to build back, and will eventually blow a seal somewhere, probably in the compressor.
Some restrictions can be repaired by flushing the restricted component, but parallel-flow condensers usually need to be replaced.

Improper Refrigerant Charge
As A/C systems become smaller and smaller, the amount of refrigerant in the system becomes critical. The correct charge for an A/C system has been calculated and engineered by vehicle manufacturers for optimum performance. Here are some tips to keep in mind when charging a system:
Charging with cans: A 12 ounce can of refrigerant gives you 12 ounces of refrigerant, right? Well, not always. If you are using a gauge set to charge, those hoses can hold up to 4 ounces of refrigerant themselves. On a 56 ounce capacity system, those 4 ounces might not make a big difference, but on a 1 pound system, you can bet it will. Also, notice how when you pull the can tap off, how the can wasn't quite empty? Yep, another ounce or 2 there.
Too much! Your A/C isn't quite cooling, so you run down to the parts store or a big box retail store, and buy a recharge kit. We in the industry call 'em suicide kits. You add a can of refrigerant. Well, with A/C, too much isn't better.
Retrofitting: Vehicles manufactured prior to 1993 and some 1994 originally came with R12 refrigerant. Because of the cost of that refrigerant, most folks opt to retrofit to R134a refrigerant. Problem is, there is no set standard for how much R134a refrigerant to use in an R12 system. There are many misconceptions about how much to use, and some people have come up with percentages of original charge. I've heard to use as little as 60% of the orginal charge!
So how do I know if I have the proper charge? Our old friend temperature testing can help determine if you have the proper charge. Orifice tube systems are the easiest and most accurately confirmed systems. It can be done on expansion valve systems, but you'll need to get on the evaporator side of the expansion valve.
Here's how: Measure the evaporator inlet pipe and record your temperature. Now measure the outlet pipe of the evaporator. Those 2 temperatures should be as close to equal as possible, at least within 5 degrees of each other. If the outlet is MORE than 5 degrees warmer than the inlet, you still need more refrigerant. If the outlet is MORE than 5 degrees cooler than the inlet, you have too much refrigerant in there.
Final tip: If your A/C is working, don't mess with. If you have an R12 system, you do NOT need to have it converted to R134a just because someone tells you that R12 is gone. If it's working, leave it alone.
If your system is working and sealed, you DO NOT need to replace your filter drier or accumulator. This is not a part that wears out. The only time you need to replace it is when the system is opened, or if you've had a leak that allows air (and moisture) into the system. If someone tells you you need to replace it every 3, 5 or 7 years, they're trying to sell you something.

_______________________________________________________________________

From:

http://reviews.ebay.com/A-C-Diagnosing_W0QQugidZ10000000000946036

_________________________________________________________________

Then the question about special tools to do AC work:

If you were planning on doing some AC work, there are few special tools that you’ll need. The recovery systems are usually cost prohibitive for most home DIY guys. As a plan of action, you could have the AC Shop test for leaks and/or recover the refrigerant from your system. Then, you could do the replacement of parts (if any) and recharge the system by yourself.

BTW….the links that I have provided here, are just to help you visualize the part ..you can buy from whomever, you want to.

For AC parts and tools, you could check with major AC Supply Houses like:

http://www.ackits.com/

http://www.acsource.com/

But, I’ve found some pretty good deals at my local Harbor Freight store. If you don’t have one close by, you could always mail order. Watch for their frequent sales. Hint: If there is a catalog (internet) sale, the local store will honor the sale price. Just print the page and take it into the store.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/start.do

The dual gauge manifold set is needed for any serious DIY AC work.

Manifold set - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92649

Vacuum pump (evacuator):

Some folks have used a venturi style evacuator with success. Though, you will need a decent shop compressor to use it (one person commented that he used his with a 30 gallon Craftsmen 6 hp compressor). It works. Just not as easy to use as an electric evacuator pump.

venturi style evacuation - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92475

The elec. vacuum pumps are available from various mfns at different levels of suction power and prices. Ebay has a lot of them at very good prices. I got one for home use that is factory rated to suck down to the 50 micron level (paid about $125). Anything that will suck down to lower than 200 microns should be good enough.

Elec. Vacuum Pump -
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...PartNumber=781900&Description=A/C+Vacuum+Pump

***A Manifold Set and Vacuum Pump can usually be purchased as a kit (cheaper than the single prices).

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Smaller Tools:

You will still need the can tap connector that will be used to tap the sealed R-134a can and connect it to the yellow hose.

AC Can Tap - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...er=783012&Description=A/C+Refrigerant+Can+Tap

You’ll likely need a quick detach tool to get those AC lines open and/or disconnected. They can also be used for fuel lines.

quick detach tool - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...cription=A/C+&+Fuel+Line+Quick+Disconnect+Set

Also handy to remove the orifice tube….though, I’ve used a long nose pliers.

Orifice Removal Tool - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...er=783205&Description=A/C+Orifice+Tube+Puller

If you want to look for leaks yourself, here is a tool that retails at almost $100.

Leak detector - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92514


Aloha, Mark

Then IF you're thinking about: leak finding, charge or re-charge......continue here:

When most folks say: I want to add a can of refrigerant to my system.

I’ll ask: Do you suspect a leak? Or, will it just be: add a bit of charge to the system? (If it is, skip to the "Typical- Add A Bit Of Charge")

Because…..leak testing is usually done by adding a dye into the system or with a sniffer. Once the leaking part is identified…..you gotta decide: Do I let the shop replace the part(s) or do I want to DIY?

If you’re gonna DIY the parts replacement……and IF the system is still under pressure…...it will need to be evacuated. Most DIY guys don‘t have the big bucks to buy an evacuation machine that will also recover the refrigerant. So, they leave that job for the shop. To release the R-134a into the atmosphere is unlawful.

However, IF the system is already empty……you could start replacing the leaking parts.

When the parts are replaced, don’t forget to add oil to the individual part(s). Oil is introduced to a specific part, at the installation time. The amount will vary, based on what part it is and the kind/brand of the system. Refer to a good book on the subject. Once the parts have been replaced and the system is buttoned up, it’s on to the next step.

We’ll continue…….by evacuating (AKA: vacuuming) the system. The vacuumed system will need to be checked for leaks. IF the vacuum doesn’t hold, you got a leak. IF the vacuum holds, you’ll usually vacuum the system for an additional ½ to 1 hour (to ”boil off” any air in the system). Once that is done, it's OK to proceed with recharging it.

Typical- Add A Bit Of Charge:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/ac/ac-1.htm

Or, a full Re-charge (Best Way):

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158183

**Note: System pressures will vary between mfns and applications.

R-134a is replaced based on the system's capacity. See the under hood engine compartment sticker, AC book or NAPA chart (link below). IMHO.....don't use "R-134a w/stop leak"......use ONLY pure R134a.

http://www.napabeltshose.com/news/in...&show=newsitem

IF you overfill the system w/ oil or R-134a.....it could lead to more problems. Having the correct capacities of oil and R-134a in the system ensures "one less problem" to deal with.

Note: IMHO.....If the system is opened or was empty or if the accumulator is over 5 years old......replace the accumulator and orifice tube........save yourself from potential future problems.

Aloha, Mark

Then, as for a conversion.........

my '94 Explorer (w/ factory R-134a) used a blue orifice tube. I’ve heard that previous years (R-12 systems), used a red orifice tube. As a COMPARISON.......the Haynes book says ('94 Ford Explorer w/factory R-134a system)........at ambient air temp of 80 degrees F, hi velocity fan in front of the condenser, 1500 RPM.........22-50 low side and 160-250 high side pressure. Capacities: oil 7 oz and R-134a 2.25 lbs (36 oz).**Conversion capacities will differ, for a R-134a conversion, I've heard anywhere from 60-90% of the R-12 charge was good. **

BTW.....for a conversion from R-12 to R-134a.....check the sticky at the top of the AC Forum.

Aloha, Mark

 

[CDW6212R]

I read that the R134 systems should have low pressure sensors of about 25psi. The old R12 low side pressure used to be about 40psi. You should be able to check and find out whether your current sensor is an OEM, or special like the FR12 would need. Good luck,

 

[MadExplorer93]

I am going to buy the 12a duracool kit from walmart in my town and and friend vacumm system and put fittings on and loag her up with duarcool.

DuraCool package and the two cans actually have oil in them too.

http://www.duracool.com/Duracool/refrigerants.html

 

[ma96782]

CDW6212R,

I'm glad you mentioned that......

I read that the R134 systems should have low pressure sensors of about 25psi.

Remember what shamaal said (I believe he was talking about a R-134a system here)....

The switch on the accumulator controls the clutch on the compressor. When the system pressure is less than 24.5 psi the clutch is disengaged. When the pressure is greater than 43.5 psi the compressor clutch engages. The switch is screwed on to a schraeder valve, like on tires. It can be removed without discharging system, having said that there have been two instances this season of sticking valves.

So, check the specs on your switch for your application.

Aloha, Mark

 

[MadExplorer93]

Update a little:

I brought vehicle to my mechanic friend who looked at the fittings for the R-416A and they were adapters which was cool because he was hoping they were.

This means the orginal R-12 fittings are in the lines still and he took off the R-416A adapters. This means i can buy 1 can or maybe 2 cans of DuraCool stuff from Walmart Canada as he has adapter fittings for R-134A and a recharge Hose which can hookup to the R-134A fittings and the DuraCool cans, basically the system only needs to be recharged and with DuraCool it can be added to "ALL" refrigerants in the market so it claims on their website and my mechanic friend has dones so to top up vehicles many times with this DuraCool, but the only thing is with DuraCool it is not that cold in a Bigger A/C system, for example he put DuarCool fully reloaded into a Cadillac and it took twice the amount for that car then my explorer would ever need for a full reload.

He then evacuated the Cadillac and put R-134A in it and he said what a big difference in the cooling. So for you big A/C systems users don't use Straight Dura Cool as it blows COOL not COLD.

Now of course because my system was leaking through one of the orginal R-12 valve fittings which has now stopped. My system now will be evacuated and the R-416A recovered and reused and then topped up with DuraCool refrigerant.

I hope i will have some nice COLD air in about a months time as i don't have much money coming in right now to do any decent stuff on the vehicle and with kids to feed it makes it even harder to do somethings.

But once i get this done i will let everyone know how good it is.

Also note DuraCool may not be good for hotter places like Texas, Nevada .. etc... as going straight DuraCool may only blow cool and not COLD.

Now some may sau well if your goingt to evacuate the system then whcy just not use R-134A, well simple R-416A is more efficiant then R-134A and this is why i will reuse it. The system may only be down a half of pound which is not much and DuraCool states on their website that it can be used with "ALL" refrigerants and this is what i will be trying out.

 

[MadExplorer93]

Ok update on this Air Conditioning system.

My friend had some of that 12a (not R-12 or FR-12) but that 12a stuff left over and we put it in my system and he only had about half a can left from doing a top on another vehicle. So here we try and top off mine and i was getting cool air, but we had to jump the low pressure switch in order for the system to accept the refrigerant, basically the clutch on the compressor caus ebeing so low pressure would not kick in unless we jumped the switch which is normal under these circumstances.

Now all went ok for abotu 2-5 min... then POOF the high pressure line sprange a leak. I think it is the high as it is the one that comes out of the condensor and then runs inot the evaporator.

Now my question is this what is this cost and what is the proper ford part name for it. The line has a fitting on it where it joins up to the fitting on the evaporator and then at the other end it has a fuiiting that hooks up to the condensor. The line blew at the fitting that mates up to the evaporator fitting.

Now my friend who is a mechanic does not know all fords etc.. otherwise he would be able to help out a little bit more.

Also since the system is now POOF leaked all out he is now wanting to do a full charge once line is replaced.. full charge with R-134a which is good i said we will do that and he can get 2 pounds for like $20.00 from where he works that is at ost price which is great.

Now i have another question he was asking me to find out which Orifice ford uses for R-134a what color is it as he said we will replace it with a R-134a recommended one?

thks

 

[MadExplorer93]

Also to add to my post above i forgot to ask about the low pressure switch as i heard there is a difference between the R-12 and R134a switch PSI levels any... plz post if you know about such things...


Thks

 

[ma96782]

Now i have another question he was asking me to find out which Orifice ford uses for R-134a what color is it as he said we will replace it with a R-134a recommended one?

My '94 Explorer (w/ factory R-134a) used a blue orifice tube. I’ve heard that previous years (R-12 systems), used a red orifice tube. Normally......I figure, IF the factory system worked well w/ whatever colored tube......then, I should replace the tube w/ a like colored tube. Thinking - that the orifice color, indicates a certain sized hole. But, in this case (R-12 to R-134a conversion) a switch from red to blue orifice tube might be the correct choice.
________________________________________________________________

Also to add to my post above i forgot to ask about the low pressure switch as i heard there is a difference between the R-12 and R134a switch PSI levels any... plz post if you know about such things...

Also, check that the low pressure switch is the correct one for your application. NAPA lists different part numbers for an R-12 vs. R-134a system (remember to also check the elec. connectors).

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=421&retPageId=430&CatId=3&SubCatId=3

Use your '93 Explorer for vehicle info/type........and search words: AC Compressor Clutch Cycling Switch

Shamaal said:

The switch on the accumulator controls the clutch on the compressor. When the system pressure is less than 24.5 psi the clutch is disengaged. When the pressure is greater than 43.5 psi the compressor clutch engages.

Aloha, Mark

 

[MadExplorer93]

ma96782

Thks for the information and i will make sure to get a blue orifice as for the switch my mechanic friend said that some are adjustable and if this one on our explorers are then he can adjust the PSI. I bet that is what Napa sells two switches as they are probably not adjustable in which the original maybe. We never thought to look at that last night to see if it is an adjustable one and infact it may have been changed at one time or another to a non-adjustable one.

Can anyone verify if the original low PSI switch is adjustable without me going to look...

I found a very interesting chart on colors of orifices on ford vehicles from 1992-1998 vehicles.

http://autoacrepairs.com/ford_orifice_tube_application9202.htm

You will notice 1992 - 1993 was a red tube, 1994 was a blue tube, but from 1994-1998 it was a red tube.... go figure.

Now i am confused

Also could it have been the fittings O-ring that burst instead of my line as it was very close to the fitting area that went, i did not take line off yet as it is way down by the frame.

 

[ma96782]

You will notice 1992 - 1993 was a red tube, 1994 was a blue tube, but from 1994-1998 it was a red tube.... go figure.

I went to another site that said to use the red, for my '94 Explorer. But as I said before, my '94 Explorer came w/ a blue one. So, I figured that (for me) what came from the factory was good enough for a replacement.

How much of a difference will it make for you? I don't know. I've no personal experience in a switch from R-12 to R-134a.

I believe shamaal and Glacier991 have done this conversion on their 1st Gens.

________________________________________________________________

Also could it have been the fittings O-ring that burst instead of my line as it was very close to the fitting area that went, i did not take line off yet as it is way down by the frame.

Yes....it could have been the "o" rings. Since you got it open, replace ALL "o" rings w/ the green "o" rings made for a R-134a system. Use NYLOG for lube (get the correct one, ask the counter guy). IF YOU NEED IT.....don't forget the correct oil for the system (I used PAG 100).
________________________________________________________________

One of the reasons for a flush of the remaining components.....is that, as much as possible, you want to clear the “crud” and old oil out of the system. I wouldn't want to mix mineral oil used in an R-12 system with the oil needed for an R-134a system. But, that's just me.

*As long as MOST of the old mineral oil is removed and IF there was NO compressor failure…..according to the Haynes book: "Unless the vehicle manufacturer - or the aftermarket kit instruction sheet specifically recommends flushing the system during the retrofit procedure, you can assume that flushing is not necessary (Readers who obtain the SAE's J1661 document will note that it recommends flushing before retrofit. However, you can disregard this information because the SAE no longer believes that flushing is critical to a successful retrofit.)"
________________________________________________________________

Remember, I'm NOT a pro.......so, assume: There are NO LEAKS, the AC compressor & clutch, radiator fan & clutch are up to the job and the system has been evacuated........

When you're re-charging the system......to start, charge it (into the vacuum) with whatever it'll take w/ engine “off.”

Then, IF needed, engine "on", running at 1500 RPM, set the AC (max), fan speed set at the fastest speed, doors closed and windows up, 10 mins. running to stabilize the system.

Continue to fill the system (w/ R-134a) to 60% of the R-12 charge. Sometimes, to help get the 60% in there, you might need to use a jumper at the low pressure switch connector, to get the compressor working. Once you get the 60% in the system, remove the jumper, reconnect the low pressure switch and observe that the clutch is working. IF the clutch doesn't energize, you may need to add a little more refrigerant (or the low pressure switch may be broken). IF you see that the compressor clutch is working. Check the ambient air temp and compare it w/ the vent temp. At an ambient air temp of 75-80 degrees F, you're looking for a 35-45 degrees F at the vent (about a 40 degree F difference, though close enough is good to). If you don't get the temps you want.....continue to add refrigerant (in the past, anywhere from 60-90% of the R-12 charge was reported to be good).......mindful that too much is no good and too little is no good......so, watch the pressure and temp readings.

Ambient air temps are taken 2” in front of the condenser. Vent temp is taken at the dash vent closest to the evaporator (usually one of the center vents).

Note the total charge and pressure readings, for future reference.

Aloha, Mark

PS......don't forget to label the system w/ a R-134a sticker.......so the next guy will know. And, IF the system still runs a little hot......you may have to go to an elec. fan infront of the condenser or a larger high-efficiency condenser.

 

[CDW6212R]

You seem to be getting close, keep at it. Since you have a mixture of freon and oils in it now, I would wonder about contamination a lot.

My concern about the different freons and the AC machines is that the machines cannot separate the types. They use different lines to access the different types of systems. But if the vehicle freon is mixed, then the AC machine will also become contaminated. I would not want to do that to someone's AC machine, nor my own.

There should be a way to titrate the system, adding an insignificant amount of the proper freon and pouring it off until the system is clean of the wrong freon. That contamination is the source of most after conversion failures. Capturing the bad freon without hurting a good AC machine is the issue. I haven't converted any of my vehicles, good luck with that.

 

[MadExplorer93]

12a refrigerant can be mixed with any blend of refrigerant it is a blend itself that sells mostly anywhere.

I will no doubt be flushing the system with fords recommend flush solvent and no doubt be chaning my broken line first off...

I will no doubt be changing to a ford recommend orifice tube that is for the refrigerant R-134a.

I will no doubt since it has a tiny hole leakage in line which peed all stuff out most likely... i will be doing a deep vaccuming possibly 2-3 hours or even over night, but there is a old trick of putting it into a stove at a good temp and warm the sucker up for about 1 hour then cap it off, let it cool down and then put it back into vehicle, un cap it and hook it up to lines ..ect.

If orifice is dirty or fragmented parts in it, i will be worried about condensor and compressor.

The compressor clutch works and compressor of course as explained previously.

 

[Glacier991]

20 Oz of OIL ? Geeze. That is a TAD high. Are you sure of that?

 

[MadExplorer93]

20 Oz of OIL ? Geeze. That is a TAD high. Are you sure of that?

That is what it stated under the hood for the R-416a.

Under the hood on the sticker it states this information.

Retrofitted to Frigc R-416A
Charge Amount 1lb 12 ozs
Manufacturer (i think is) Dongal
Lubricant Amount 2 ozs

-----------------------------------------------------------------

But it not all matter now since my line bursted when we just tried a half can of 12a (same stuff as Duracools, but it was called evergreen or something like that) to try and top it backup as 12a can be susposily used will all refrigerant as a top up only.

The initial leak was from the low pressure valve stem which by pushing it down for maybe 2 secs cleaned that up. Then i waited and waited and a friend had some 12a left over from topping up two vehicles the other day, so we gave it a shot on mine and the high pressure line OUTLET line to evaporator sprung a pin hole leak just as the can was almost empty.

So now i have to wait a few weeks until i get more money to invest into my A/C.

Glacier what orifice tube color is proper for R-134a??? as it seems a mystery at the moment.

 

[MadExplorer93]

Glacier991 ????

 

[CDW6212R]

That 20oz. of oil sounds high, I'd double check that elsewhere before sticking that much in.

FYI, the red color you had asked about on another thread, that is Toreador Red, it is on lots of the 2nd gen. trucks. Mine is also, with Dark Toreador Red below. Regards,

 

[Glacier991]

R-12 oil load is 7 oz. I cannot speak for the miscability of oil in 416, or why they loaded that much oil in it.

Me? I'd flush the system before recharging. As for the Orifice tube I'd go with Blue.