Dismiss Notice



Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!

How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by MountaineerGreen, September 3, 2007.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





Tags:
  1. djembeing

    djembeing New Member

    Joined:
    August 11, 2009
    Messages:
    8
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Ashland KY
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    99 Ranger Sport, 97 EX
    coil spring or torsion bar

    I was wondering what the difference is between upper control arms for 2wd rangers that have torsion bar suspension, and ones that have coil spring.
    I'm just having a bit of trouble finding the right one. (i have coil springs)
    I need to change uppers and lowers on the passenger side.
    My truck has what I believe to be a factory one piece UCA on the pass. side. Can I use a one-piece, OR a two-piece replacement? If i go with the two-piece, it looks like it attaches to the frame differently (from the picture, it doesn't have the bolt-holes in the same orientation as the one-piece. How does this work?
     
  2. Support EF

    Join the Elite Explorers for $20

    Explorer Forum has probably saved you that much already, and will continue to save you money as you learn how to diagnose fix problems yourself and learn which modifications work without having to experiment on your own. Elite Explorer members see practically no ads, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create more private Conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.



  3. tommymor

    tommymor New Member

    Joined:
    October 8, 2011
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1998 Mountaineer
    I just did my UCAs with ball joints on both sides on a '98 Mounty 2WD. This fuel line was an unexpected glitch and I ended up needing another person to push the line down about a 1/16" with a crow bar from above while I rotated, jiggled, swore, cajoled, used the design engineer's name in vain :banghead: and finally pryed the bolt out.....repeated that process when putting it back in. That side took about an hour an a half in all for this ameteur, the passenger side with the two piece design took 15 minutes. I used Prosteer parts in stock at Pep Boys. Car has 190k on it and this was the first replacement....will be doing the lowers next week.

    Thanks to Moutaineer Green for a great thread...saved me some needed cash.:thumbsup:
     
  4. Lloyd10977

    Lloyd10977 Elite Explorer

    Joined:
    December 12, 2004
    Messages:
    512
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Trenton, NJ
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1995 Limited
    I found that when I did mine (4.0 4X4) I undid as many clips from the fuel line as I can reach and the pushed a wooden wedge between the line and the frame, giving me room to work with while allowing me to concentrate both hands on manipulating the bolt.
     
  5. Big-E

    Big-E New Member

    Joined:
    December 19, 2010
    Messages:
    24
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Holiday, Florida
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1997 XLT
    Wow thanks for this write up including the one for the ball joints. Did did this to my Explorer today and wow it rides so much better. Of course i put in new shocks and when I had new tires put on as well tonight. The old ball joints were horrible and would squeak when turning the wheel. The one PITA was that camber bold for the upper control arm on the drivers side. I had to undo all sorts of fuel/brake line clips to get it out. I was cursing that Engineers name as i was removing it this afternoon.

    Thanks again,


    Eric
     
  6. vrtentis

    vrtentis New Member

    Joined:
    November 7, 2011
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Jacksonville, fl
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2001 ford explorer sport
    hAVING TROUBLE GETTING MY CAM BOLTS OUT!! THEY BUT UP AGAINST OTHER PARTS AND I CANT SEEM TO FIND A WAY TO GET THEM OUT TO CHANGE MY CONTROL ARM ALSO MY TIE ROD END SEEMS TO BE STUCK ON THE TIE ROD ITS SELF AND WONDERING IF THERE IS A SECRET TO GETTING THE TIE ROD END OFF OF THERE?
     
  7. BWheetley

    BWheetley New Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2011
    Messages:
    26
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Fayetteville, NC
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2002 Sport Trac 4x4
    I'm assuming you're talking about the driver's side cam They are tough to get out. You may have to loosen the fuel line mounts so that the fuel lines will flex far enough to allow the cam bolts to slide out. Search this thread as others have had this same issue. I think I remember seeing a picture of the fuel lines that are in the way.

    On the tie rod, make sure you have loosened the lock nut and the tie rod end should fairly easily unscrew.
     
  8. vrtentis

    vrtentis New Member

    Joined:
    November 7, 2011
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Jacksonville, fl
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2001 ford explorer sport
    Thanks!! thats what i was just kinda worried about damaging the lines but ill lossen them and puch them out of the way and with the tie rod i cant get either the locking bolt or tie rod to budge, but im going to keep going at it and eventually its gotta come lose! I appreciate your advice!
     
  9. vrtentis

    vrtentis New Member

    Joined:
    November 7, 2011
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Jacksonville, fl
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2001 ford explorer sport
    control arm job done

    Finished both driverside and passanger side control arms and tie rod end job. The passanger side was much easier to do, it had the old two peice control arm design but i replaced it with the one peice with no problem. The driverside was a pain cause i had to find a way to get the cam bolts out with the brake lines and ac lines in the way but i just pushed them out of the way enough to get the bolts out. Not the easiest job but it wasnt to hard. doing it yourself will save you between 500-700 in labor and "shop supplies" oh dont forget the misc $5 charge they throw in there too depending on where you live. :usa::thumbsup:
     
  10. Bintopo

    Bintopo New Member

    Joined:
    November 19, 2011
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Aurora, ON
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    99 Ford Ranger XLT
    Upper Control Arm Frustration

    Hi,

    Doing the UCA on my 99 Ranger and found I couldn't get the ball joint into the steering knuckle. Tried all kinds of ways but nothing. I borrowed my buddy's calipers and found that the old ones were .685" while the new were .762". That's .077" larger!!! There parts that I got from NAPA 260-5122 & 260-5123.

    Should they be the same size and slip in without having to force them?

    Thanks
    Brian
     
  11. MNBen

    MNBen New Member

    Joined:
    February 11, 2011
    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Cosmos, MN
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    99 Ranger 4x4 XLT Ext. Ca
    My old and new were the same size as I checked them before the install. You may have the wrong part in the right box. Go back to napa.
     
  12. Bintopo

    Bintopo New Member

    Joined:
    November 19, 2011
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    Aurora, ON
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    99 Ford Ranger XLT
    Turns out I was given the ones for Torsion Bar suspension and not the Coil Spring ones.
     
  13. mikepier

    mikepier Active Member

    Joined:
    December 24, 2008
    Messages:
    314
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    28
    City, State:
    Long Island, NY
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    99 XLT
    15 XL
    I did the passengers side UCA this past weekend. I only replaced the half assembly (Moog K8710T) , not the full piece. My bushings are still good so I figured it was not necessary and why make life harder.
    Now I will tackle the drivers side this weekend. I ordered the Moog K8708T. I have been hearing a lot about these replacement camber bolt kits . Do I need these, or can I use the stock ones? In the 13 years I had this truck since it was brand new, I never gotten an alignment, nor did I have any issues with uneven tire wear. Will the new control arm throw the alignment out a lot, or is it an identical piece to the stock UCA?
     
  14. Yadkin

    Yadkin New Member

    Joined:
    March 13, 2012
    Messages:
    48
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    City, State:
    The beautiful Yadkin Valley in the Great State of North Carolina
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2012 Jeep GCO
    Those parts in the OP, picture 11, look a lot different that these:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Sal33n

    Sal33n New Member

    Joined:
    July 20, 2008
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Pinch bolt question

    98 Mountaineer 5.0 AWD. Passenger side. I am trying to remove the pinch bolt. Got the nut off but the Bolt won't budge. Is it threaded though the knuckle or do you just knock it out with a hammer?
     
  16. swashbuckler

    swashbuckler New Member

    Joined:
    May 8, 2010
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    City, State:
    SLC
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    '00 XLT
    Smack it around, show it who's boss. You got a new bolt with your new arm, right? So go to town on it.
     
  17. jremington59

    jremington59 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    October 28, 2009
    Messages:
    1,940
    Likes Received:
    1
    Trophy Points:
    46
    City, State:
    Watertown, NY
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1997, 99 and 2000 5.0's
    I just did my drivers side and the only hard part is the hardlines on the back side of the arm. Here's what I came up with that makes it easy to get the bolt out. If you unhook the connector that holds the two gas lines from the fame you can put a piece of string through the hole in the frame below the lines, wrap it arond the lines and bring it back through the hole and tie it. Then just put a bar through the rope and against the frame and you can pull the lines down and over at the same time with the bar.
     
  18. patrickw1982

    patrickw1982 New Member

    Joined:
    June 17, 2012
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2001 ford ranger egde
    2 piece to 1 piece upper ball joint right side.

    I am having the same issue. I have the two part ball joint but I cannot find the replacement for the upper piece. I can get the ball joint piece just fine but cant seem to find the upper piece it bolts to. The piece that bolts to the frame. does anyone know if the one piece will be okay to replace it with?
     
  19. patrickw1982

    patrickw1982 New Member

    Joined:
    June 17, 2012
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2001 ford ranger egde
    I had the same problem. I used a jack under the hub assembly to lift the hub assembly up to the pin, then pulled down and gave it a few taps with a small sledge to get in all the way.

    Hope this helps.
     
  20. cruz38

    cruz38 New Member

    Joined:
    September 2, 2007
    Messages:
    33
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    6
    City, State:
    HEB. Texas area
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    1996 ford explorer
    Replace..

    You dont want to replace it with a two piece. Use the two piece it works fine and will last longer..

    Cruz38
     
  21. patrickw1982

    patrickw1982 New Member

    Joined:
    June 17, 2012
    Messages:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Year, Model & Trim Level:
    2001 ford ranger egde
    I dont think I understand what your saying. So I will clarify the issue. I have a 2001 Edge 2WD with Torsion bars. The front driver side upper ball joint is an adjustable two piece unit. You have one unit that bolts to the frame. Then you have the ball joint pressed into arms that bolts to piece one. The Issue I have is this. I can easily find the replacement piece for the ball joint pressed into the arms. The part I need to replace is the other piece that bolts to the frame. The piece that has the adjustment bolt in it. I took it in to a guy today and he told me that The one piece ball and arm assembly will be fine. The two piece is nice because its easier to align but the whole unit is not avaliable.
     

Share This Page







We Support Our Troops!