I need help with a front end noise.

[vikings.1]

I've never posted before, but have found a ton of helpful info from you guys!!
Anyway, here goes...
I have a 1997 ex with the 5.0 and awd. The problem is a serious clunking / knocking sound from under the front end. First thing I thought was the driver's side cv joints. The noise would start only on left hand turns, and would be alot worse if you hit a bump during the turn. I replaced the driver's side cv shaft, but that didn't help. After reading this forum for a couple of days, I decided to pull the front d.s. Still no help. I raised the front, and checked the ball joints, but the clunk is still there. It also seems to make the noise occasionally on a straight-a-way, but only for a couple of seconds. Could this be a symptom of a suspension problem or a bad t.c.? I wouldn't think so because the front d.s. is still out.
By the way, the Ex has 125k on it, and unfortunately it rarely sees any off-road action. It's my wife's daily driver, and we both agree - it's by far the best vehicle we've ever owned! I'm becoming a bit baffled, and don't want to replace parts that are still good ( like the c.v. shaft ).
ANY help I get would be extremely welcome at this point!!!!

 

[Turdle]

You didn't mention the sway bar end links, nor the sway bar frame bushings. Just double checking

Also, check the brake caliper bracket bolts, on the inside of the knuckle. These work loose and allow the whole brake assembly to flop loose.

There are 2 13mm bolts holding the caliper to the bracket, and 2 15 mm bolts holding the bracket to the knuckle--these are the ones to check

The noise could be ball joint or even control arm bushing related also. Best to get the weight off the wheel and move things around if you can. Grab the tire and try to wiggle from all directions. It should be rock solid without movement. If it moves this is probably a worn hub.

Grab a pry bar and try to move the lower ball joint by wedging the bar into the gap between the ball joint and knuckle. Pry it around, you should not be able to deflect it at all
Same with the upper. Try to pull it up and out of the knuckle--if there is any slop it is bad. You really need to push quite hard sometimes to see the movement.
Check to see that the adjuster nuts on the camber adjusting upper control arm bolts are tight. try to move the arm in and out with the bar.

You might have someone steer the wheels while the weight is on it, looking for something loose while they steer back and forth. if the ball joints seem tight, then you will need to knock the knuckle loose from the upper ball joint to check the upper and lower control arm bushings. They should be stiff, not loose. there should be no triangulated movement.

The transfer case will also make a racket, but it is usually related to acceleration. Without being there it is difficult to be more help.



Let us know what you find

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've renamed your thread, and moved it into the stock 95-01 section.

 

[tsilney]

Check the transmission mount bolts. I replaced sway bar links, ball joints, upper control arms/ball joints and still nothing worked. I ended up having one of my bolts missing that hold the transmission to the mount missing. One bolt and its run perfect since. Just a thought. good luck.

 

[vikings.1]

Knocking sound fixed!!

Well, guys... first off, let me say how cool it was to have so many of you that were willing to help so quickly! Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but I've not been able to get away from work.
Anyway, after pulling the front d.s., inspecting all front end components, changing the d.s. cv shaft, etc., I decided it was time to call in a fresh set of eyes. A buddy of mine came over, and after 10 seconds under the truck, had the problem diagnosed. There is a plastic heat shield that goes from the top of the fuel tank and down the side and runs between the rear driveline and the fuel tank. It had apparently popped off the side of the tank, and therefore was able to knock against the rear d.s. - but only on left turns!! I had no idea that a piece of plastic could make so much noise!
We put the mounting tabs back on the gas tank, and voila! - the noise stopped. I've never felt so stupid in my life - thinking the worst, and ignoring the MOST simple solution!!
Well, the EX is back on the road, and running like a champ! Again, thanks to all of you for welcoming me, and for the rapid responses!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update!

 

[MountaineerGreen]

If the noise is only under load, then I'd suspect the transfer case, the chain becomes stretched over time, causing it to jump the cogs under load. I helped BT93 rebuild one, a new chain isn't that high, no special tools needed, just a couple of hours.