IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

[gmanpaint]

Update...

Its been a good while since all these HD pro grade parts were installed. The rig has gone thru some pretty sever conditions since then. Just to let you guys know, the front axle on the rig has 4.56 gears, has an auto locker, and runs 35"x12.5" MT's.

The heavy abuse of rock crawling, jumping, falling off 4' rock shelves landing square on both tires, 3 wheeling, high speed trails with gnarly whoops and ruts, and lots of extreme punishment has resulted in ZERO breaks, issues, problems of any type with these parts.

Ford truck tested, Ford (owner) approved!

 

[Rick]

I know I'm a bit late, but I just made this thread a sticky. Lot's of good info here

 

[sport97]

Bookmarked this for future use. I just greased my ball joints, and the grease fittings were clogged with dirt and metal shavings after 20k miles. Sounds like the next set needs to be heavy duty.

 

[Glen4X4]

That's great to hear Gregg!

 

[gmanpaint]

I know I'm a bit late, but I just made this thread a sticky. Lot's of good info here

Thanks!

 

[jenren81]

Thanks for the great post... all the info I needed to get this stuff ordered! Have some funds finally to spruce up the front end

Probably won't be making back home to Iowa to have my pops install the stuff, how much do you think I'll get charged for labor for this? I have yet to find a good mechanic out here :-(

 

[gavin]

if they charge by book-time, probably look at 2hr for each lower arm, 1hr per upper arm.
So, guesstimating $80/hr, 6 hrs, $480. Just a guess, though.

If they only charge the amount of time they actually take, probably quite a bit less.

 

[jenren81]

if they charge by book-time, probably look at 2hr for each lower arm, 1hr per upper arm.
So, guesstimating $80/hr, 6 hrs, $480. Just a guess, though.

If they only charge the amount of time they actually take, probably quite a bit less.

Thanks, that is about what I was thinking too...I just got referred by a friend to a reputable mechanic up here, so hopefully he will be fair

 

[gmanpaint]

Jenni,
What all are you wanting to replace?

If you have to pay a mechanic to do all the work, replacing as much as you can at the same time would be beneficial to your pocketbook.

If you replace tie rod ends, might as well do all 4 (outer/inner) of them.

If you replace Ball joints, do all 4 of them also. If your control arm bushings are still good, you only have to replace the drivers side uppers. The lowers can be installed keeping the control arms, and replacing the BJ's alone. Passenger side uses a 2 pc C/A and just replaces the outer.

As long as your lower/pass side control arms and bushings are still good, this will be the cheaper route for you to do, and just as good a job.

Try to find a shop that not only does the repairs, but also has an alignment shop if possible. Also make sure your happy with the alignment they do before you say thank you and pay up. Tech's seem to have a hard time aligning our rigs that have been adjusted away from stock specs as they just stick to the stock specs on the software they use. Those specs don't work for a rig that has been altered from stock ride height, via a TT or other means of adjustment mod. Tell them to go "Old School" when aligning it.

 

[jenren81]

Last time I went for an alignment I had to go to a few places to find somebody that would even do it and do it correctly! There is a good 4x4 shop here that has had some good recommendations, I would imagine they can get an alignment right. We shall see!

I figure I'll just get everything replaced at once so I know it's all good to go...I doubt all the parts are bad all at once but the way it drives and steers I'd rather be safe than sorry, not to mention saving $ on labor. Just priced out all 4 BJs, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar bushings and end links from rockauto. Will probably buy new shocks as well. I'm tired of my truck handling like a pontoon boat!

I think my CV is going bad on my driver side, it's cold and snowy here now and I just poked my head in the wheel well to see if the boot was cracked or anything, it's hard to tell. That might be an added expense once I take it in.

I'm due for new tires soon, but before I drop the cash on those I want the front end nice and tight so it doesn't ruin the new tires. Everything is spendy, but at least I don't have a car payment anymore :

 

[Steeda04SVT]

This might be a silly question, but for just somebody like me that does just everyday driving to and from work. Should I even bother getting the HD upgrades?

 

[IZwack]

This might be a silly question, but for just somebody like me that does just everyday driving to and from work. Should I even bother getting the HD upgrades?

If such parts need to replaced soon
Then why not go with parts with the strength of a baboon
If not, then just let it slide
And instead spend our time on a bike ride.

 

[Glen4X4]

I agree with IZ if you need to replace the parts and plan on keeping it for awhile then why not put those parts on the truck and have the confidence of probably not having to replace those parts again for a good while....

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

I had posted that Rockauto has all the pro grade parts already, but thanks for the heads up

The one piece arm is not available last time I looked, XRF offers a one piece arm in a pro grade if thats what someone wants.

What is the difference between the one and two piece right UCA? I found part #'s K8710T (2pc) and K80068 (1pc) on XRF's website. I am interested in doing both front upper right and left control arms, with ball joint assemblies.

I found the left front UCA under part# K8708T as you had listed in your first post.

If anyone could help me clarify, I'd like to get this front-end rebuild started! Will more than likely also do both front LCA's as well, and those Raybestos pieces from RockAuto look like they'd do the trick. Thanks!

 

[gmanpaint]

What is the difference between the one and two piece right UCA? I found part #'s K8710T (2pc) and K80068 (1pc) on XRF's website. I am interested in doing both front upper right and left control arms, with ball joint assemblies.

2 pc arm allows for a better alignment.

1 pc works well enough for a stock ride height, but for those that have altered the ride height (raise or lower via a TT), the 2 pc allows for more castor degree for the alignment to be accomplished.

The one pc design is just an aftermarket part that was made as a shortcut for an easier DIY replacement IMO. That doesn't always mean it is better, just easier.

I would talk to your alignment person, and ask them before hand which they can dial in better, as it really boils down to the individual vehicle and alignment shop.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

2 pc arm allows for a better alignment.

1 pc works well enough for a stock ride height, but for those that have altered the ride height (raise or lower via a TT), the 2 pc allows for more castor degree for the alignment to be accomplished.

The one pc design is just an aftermarket part that was made as a shortcut for an easier DIY replacement IMO. That doesn't always mean it is better, just easier.

I would talk to your alignment person, and ask them before hand which they can dial in better, as it really boils down to the individual vehicle and alignment shop.

Is there a reason that a 2 piece UCA for the left side is not offered?

 

[Turdle]

Is there a reason that a 2 piece UCA for the left side is not offered?

You can replace the bushings in the right side upper arm, then get the " 2 piece outer" for a new ball joint.

 

[Greg_DonWindsor]

Ok,

so I've ordered XRF part#'s K8708T and K8710T. Should this be what I need to do my left and right UCA's on both sides? I'm still a little confused about this whole 1 or 2 piece issue. Thanks for any help with this,

Greg

 

[Steeda04SVT]

If such parts need to replaced soon
Then why not go with parts with the strength of a baboon
If not, then just let it slide
And instead spend our time on a bike ride.

I agree with IZ if you need to replace the parts and plan on keeping it for awhile then why not put those parts on the truck and have the confidence of probably not having to replace those parts again for a good while....

Good call, thinking of going with the Raybestos Lower Ball Joints Professional Grade next weekend after I get my new tires this week and will go from there with different suspension parts at a time with the UCA and UBJ at the same time then eventually shocks which is another thing to figure out down the road.

Quick question does Rock Auto have pretty quick shipping?

 

[Glen4X4]

Good call, thinking of going with the Raybestos Lower Ball Joints Professional Grade next weekend after I get my new tires this week and will go from there with different suspension parts at a time with the UCA and UBJ at the same time then eventually shocks which is another thing to figure out down the road.

Quick question does Rock Auto have pretty quick shipping?

Yeah, I haven't had a problem with shipping from them, they give different options for ordering too.