buddhalite
New Member
- Joined
- December 9, 2010
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Lafayette, Louisiana, USA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 00' XLS
Hello,
I need some advice on my 2000 Ford Explorer XLS.
This thing belonged to the local electrical utility where I used to live - and picked it up a few years back. Great truck for the most part - missing a few options - but it has served me well!
About two weeks ago, I had the blower motor quit on me. I replaced both the resistor and the relay (they were cheap, and I figured while I had it all apart, I'd just go for it).
Well - that didn't fix the problem. With 12v direct to motor, it worked perfectly. I assumed that the ground was broken in some fashion so I fashioned a direct ground to the body - and the fan worked flawlessly. That is until now!
Yesterday, as I exited my vehicle, something strange happened. I had the keys in my hand, the door open, and the 'your keys are still in the ignition' beep was sounding. Additionally, the radio was still playing, and my cell phone charger (in the switched outlet) was still powered.
So, I grabbed the keys, stuck them back in the ignition figuring that the ignition wasn't fully switched off - didn't work. I thought maybe the tranny wasn't full in park and it was angry (makes no sense, I know) but that didn't fix it either.
As it sits right now - the truck with the battery hooked up - everything works as if the ignition is in the on/acc position. The truck will crank and run as if nothing is wrong. I can drive anywhere I want, but I have to pull the negative battery cable if I want to crank it in the future.
From everything I have read and know about my vehicle, I have to assume that the ignition switch is probably to blame. The switch has always had a "catch" in it since I bought it (you have to sometimes re-insert the key or jiggle the ears of the keyhole a bit to get the key to turn) but hasn't appeared to get any worse, that problem has actually gotten better as of late.
So - how do I test this switch? I've replaced a switch before, but it was on a '79 Dodge - and I am sure this will be quite different!
What is the testing procedure - and more importantly - could this also be related to my blower motor failure?
I've searched the forums - and can't really find any advice for such a strange set of problems.
Anyway - thanks for looking and giving any advice that you can!
I need some advice on my 2000 Ford Explorer XLS.
This thing belonged to the local electrical utility where I used to live - and picked it up a few years back. Great truck for the most part - missing a few options - but it has served me well!
About two weeks ago, I had the blower motor quit on me. I replaced both the resistor and the relay (they were cheap, and I figured while I had it all apart, I'd just go for it).
Well - that didn't fix the problem. With 12v direct to motor, it worked perfectly. I assumed that the ground was broken in some fashion so I fashioned a direct ground to the body - and the fan worked flawlessly. That is until now!
Yesterday, as I exited my vehicle, something strange happened. I had the keys in my hand, the door open, and the 'your keys are still in the ignition' beep was sounding. Additionally, the radio was still playing, and my cell phone charger (in the switched outlet) was still powered.
So, I grabbed the keys, stuck them back in the ignition figuring that the ignition wasn't fully switched off - didn't work. I thought maybe the tranny wasn't full in park and it was angry (makes no sense, I know) but that didn't fix it either.
As it sits right now - the truck with the battery hooked up - everything works as if the ignition is in the on/acc position. The truck will crank and run as if nothing is wrong. I can drive anywhere I want, but I have to pull the negative battery cable if I want to crank it in the future.
From everything I have read and know about my vehicle, I have to assume that the ignition switch is probably to blame. The switch has always had a "catch" in it since I bought it (you have to sometimes re-insert the key or jiggle the ears of the keyhole a bit to get the key to turn) but hasn't appeared to get any worse, that problem has actually gotten better as of late.
So - how do I test this switch? I've replaced a switch before, but it was on a '79 Dodge - and I am sure this will be quite different!
What is the testing procedure - and more importantly - could this also be related to my blower motor failure?
I've searched the forums - and can't really find any advice for such a strange set of problems.
Anyway - thanks for looking and giving any advice that you can!