Instrument panel and parking lights not working | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Instrument panel and parking lights not working

lilone71742

Member
Joined
April 18, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Fordyce, AR, Living In Palm Bay Fl currently
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 Explorer Sport
I have a problem, My instrument panel, park lights as well as interior door lighting and steering wheel controls and rear lights went out. I can turn the headlight switch to headlights and only the headlights come on. I thinking its the headlight switch but i don't want to go buy the part until i know exactly. I talked to a tech at the dealership i work at but i wanted to hear from some explorer owners to see if this was a problem that someone on here has ran into
 



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i have checked fuses. My headlights will come on, but the instrument panel lights,ac panel lights,door lights,park lights as well as steering wheel lights will not come on. dimmer switch works because i can turn the interior lights on with the switch
 






i have checked fuses. My headlights will come on, but the instrument panel lights,ac panel lights,door lights,park lights as well as steering wheel lights will not come on. dimmer switch works because i can turn the interior lights on with the switch
The headlights are on their own fuses, independent from the rest of that stuff.

Everything you listed is powered through fuse #11 in the underhood Distribution Box. If #11 is intact, check the Parking Lamp Relay - it is in a small black relay box under the dash to the right of the steering column.
 






It sound like you have a bad headlight switch and pig tail this is common with ford i do about 2-3 a month at work take out your switch and unplug look at the wire connector it if it is brown and melted there is your problem call ford and tell them you need headlight switch and pigtail connector :thumbsup:
 






I just had that happen to me but my headlights came on by themself in the middle of the night.
The pigtail and wires behind the headlight switch were all melted.
it may be just one of the connectors pulled out of the pigtail, I think the bottom right wire controlls the parking and interior lights.
I had to pull all the wires apart individually and resolder/heat shrink them and everything works now.
Hope that helps.
 






Can you tell me if I did it wrong?

Hello, and thanks for any help or advice you can give me.

I have a similar problem with my 1991 Explorer. Pulling the headlight knob out halfway turned on dash and running (parking?) lights but pulling it all the way turned on the headlights but then the dash, running and tail lights would go off. I could not afford to get it fixed but I must drive at night to get to work.

In desperation, I have tried to fix it myself. I read all the threads on this site that I could find, as well as on some other sites. I learned how to do a western union splice, how to solder (I hope), what liquid electric tape is, about Scotch 33+ electric tape, and heat shrink wrap. I got a new switch and pigtail and a Haynes manual, took off the dash, and applied this new knowledge as carefully as I could.

The two yellow wires in the dash that connect to the one yellow wire on the pigtail concerned me, but they go to the same prong on the switch so I twisted them together with the pigtail's yellow wire. The other thing that bugged me is the fatter brown wire coming from the dash hooks up to a black with red stripe on the pigtail, there's no other option, but the brown wire is a bunch of fatter copper strands and the black/red wire's copper strands are noticeably thinner, but the total wire is the same thickness as the brown's, I guess they both fit in the 14 gauge hole in the stripper tool. I was hoping this is okay, but please tell me if it's a problem.

After doing the whole task of hooking up the new pigtail, I got worried and so cut it off and redid the soldering again to try to make sure it wasn't a cold solder job. Then I coated the splices with liquid electric tape. The next day I wrapped them with Scotch 33+, then shrunk the heat shrink over that.

My problem is that now I am scared to put the switch on and hook up the battery again to see if it works. I know it probably won't explode, but I am cautious by nature and have a really, really good imagination for potential disasters. Is there anything obvious I'm missing, or does it look like I did it right and it should be okay?

Also, are the next steps to just plug in the switch, put the knob stick back in it, and hook up the battery so I can start the car and see if the lights work right? I wish I could post the pictures of it but I'm still figuring out how.

If there's anything else I should be aware of in my nooby ignorance please, please feel free to clue me in. I'll leave the dash off until I know it's working right. Thanks for any help.
 






The headlights are on their own fuses, independent from the rest of that stuff.

Everything you listed is powered through fuse #11 in the underhood Distribution Box. If #11 is intact, check the Parking Lamp Relay - it is in a small black relay box under the dash to the right of the steering column.
This.a very good problem solver. Great advice
 












It sound like you have a bad headlight switch and pig tail this is common with ford i do about 2-3 a month at work take out your switch and unplug look at the wire connector it if it is brown and melted there is your problem call ford and tell them you need headlight switch and pigtail connector :thumbsup:

THIS ADVICE IS VERY IMPORTANT. I had no parking lights and no instrument lights. I had to replace BOTH the headlight switch and headlight switch pigtail to solve the problem. I got a WPT187 pigtail kit from Ford. The kit comes with 16 awg wire and the wires in the truck are a mixture of 18awg and 20awg. You end up soldering the pigtail kit connections and then shrink tubing the connections. Wiring diagrams from ALLDATADIY were critical in troubleshooting this to find the problem.

20190426_115932.jpg
 






I have a problem, My instrument panel, park lights as well as interior door lighting and steering wheel controls and rear lights went out. I can turn the headlight switch to headlights and only the headlights come on. I thinking its the headlight switch but i don't want to go buy the part until i know exactly. I talked to a tech at the dealership i work at but i wanted to hear from some explorer owners to see if this was a problem that someone on here has ran into
I had the same thing happen after I replaced the instrument cluster lights, on mine the dimmer switch went out causing all of the inside lights to stop working. As long as you have power going to that when the headlights are on, it’s most likely the dimmer switch. Ford calls it the dimmer module even though it isn’t a computer, which jacks the price way up. I ended up just getting one from a salvage yard. Hope this was helpful, good luck!
 






If the wiring is burnt/melted that’s a dead giveaway.
What if you had the same issue without melted wires? Can you jumper the wiring at the switch to determine the switch is bad?
 






Ya that’s what I did, if the switch is bad without any other faults it shouldn’t melt the wires. I don’t remember what wires but you can use a jumper to bypass the switch and verify the fault. I’d recommend a fused jumper wire just in case
 






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