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Intake leak please help running out of options

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by kendrellh, May 21, 2017.

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  1. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Hi i have a intake leak, well thats what the code reader says, i made a home made smoke machine and only notice smoke from the break booster hose and out of the back of the iac sensor where the lil filter on the back is. I change the hose to the break booster, and cleaned the iac sense i have the one that can be clean with the metal cap not the black plastic one. Started it up and still idles like crap and kills untill it gets warm like before, which once it got warm before it would kill if i speed up fast but if i coasted to the speed i wanted it didnt, and depending on the temp outside it did untill i was crusing on the interstate but once i get to my destination and started to slow down sometimes it kills, also after i clean the iac and replace the hose then started it, i found a small hose that ran from side of intake rite below to the left of the break booster hose that make sort of a s shape that goes to the value cover on tge driver side and air was hissing out of the loose fitting on the value cover could that be my problem that fitting letting air out please please help , 97 explorer x vin non octopus type intake but the straight one
     
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  3. GTMountain

    GTMountain Active Member

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    For a home smoke test just cap the TB, connect to the manifold, and blow cigar smoke in (putting your thumb over the hose in-between blowing). Do that for a whole Swisher Sweet and you'll find your leaks. Replace and repeat until no smoke escapes.
     
  4. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    I made a diy smoker with a paint can and air compressor with a kanthal wire setup around a wik soak in mineral oil it work great i just only found two leak hoses and i change them but i found a leak after i got it running again from a fitting nipple thats on my drive side valve cover that runs to the intake it was blowing like a whistle, my question is should that nipple coming out the valve cover have alot of play in it which reaulted in the air coming out or ahould it be seal tight
     
  5. GTMountain

    GTMountain Active Member

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    Every part of the vacuum system needs to hold vacuum ...
     
  6. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Thanks i know what i need to do now i appreciate it GTMountain, also i bought the whole gasket kit for the valve covers and the intake u think i should change it all while im doing the valve cover to get to that nipple or just leave the rest alone and do what necessary
     
  7. poker4me007

    poker4me007 Elite Explorer

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    That small s shaped hose you mentioned gos to the pcv valve you may need to replace it if its leaking
     
  8. GTMountain

    GTMountain Active Member

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    My motto is if I'm in there messing around I might as well do everything I plan on doing.
     
  9. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    True
     
  10. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Can that be changed with removing the cover
     
  11. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Does it seal back with a new one
     
  12. poker4me007

    poker4me007 Elite Explorer

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    Yes its an easy fix,you could have a leak at the hose or the pcv valve grommet,or if you have the original motorcraft pcv valve witch is plastic could be cracked, its a tight fit in there but it all comes out, its just pushed in no clamps
     
  13. poker4me007

    poker4me007 Elite Explorer

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  14. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Thanks i hope this solves the problem ive done a few things already like the smoke test change leaking hoses and cleaned the iac, thought i was gone have to change the intake gasket but didnt leak with smoke test i hope this stops it from stalling and running so ruff
     
  15. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Hi i change the bad pcv which wasnt hard and i clean the iac and now it running a lil worse but once it warm up it idled smooth but it to a few cranks and kills to get it there, so i let it idle for about 20 mins at a good 750 rpm running nice but when i put it in gear it kill again and went back to stalling after every crank untill it idle smooth again but once in gear it kills
     
  16. alohamonte

    alohamonte Active Member

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    My rough idles issues always came down to - ignition coil, spark plugs, IAC, TPS, or MAF. And I almost never get a code/CEL, I can just feel that the idle is off from driving the car for so long. Cleaning these sensors has never helped once a problem has surfaced. It's good for maintenance but won't fix a problem. I recommend replacement.
     
  17. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Thanks buddy im actually at the store gettig the coil pack and tps now and im thinking a fuel pump to
     
  18. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    I found that when i tried to turn the truck over today its getting spark and fuel sense i change both coil and fuel pump and i got my buddy to put it on his real smoke machine and we found two lines coming off the egr control mod, but the egr pressure sensor that have the two lines connected to it one line was collapsing i wonder if that sensor is bad
     
  19. GTMountain

    GTMountain Active Member

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    Should be getting a code if the sensor is toast but if a smoke test resulted in smoke coming out ... That tells you there's an issue.
     
  20. kendrellh

    kendrellh New Member

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    Well so far i change the egr pressure sensor that had the collapse hose, fuel pump, coil pack, i change spark plugs and wires and it started right up but after a few mins it started to cut off i gave it gas till it warm up and then it idle at 750 smooth i press the gas just to see if the truck would kill when the rpms drop and it did, and started up ruff again and smooth out and i hit tge gas again and let the rpm drop and it killed again any suggestions
     
  21. GTMountain

    GTMountain Active Member

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    TPS, MAF (MAP), IAC
     






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