Is it time to put my 95 out?

[ClaimCheck]

(I originally posted this under an old thread and since I hadn't seen any responses, I thought maybe it needed to be on its own with a thread of a newer date. Sorry if this is wrong.)

Background:
I have a 95 Explorer XLT 4x4 w/ 5spd MANUAL transmission.
It has about 190k mi.

I bought it in July 96 with less than 1000 mi on it. (maybe less than 500 mi)
It had been on its way to Brazil. Dunno why it didn't make it. But I got it "used" with a new dash and the paperwork to show that it had been replaced from a metric dash.

I just had the tranny rebuilt and clutch replaced $2500+/- [I don't remember exactly how much, with the shock of the cost and all]

Problem:
My steering became difficult about a week ago.
It wouldn't center after turning the wheels in either direction.

I took it to my local mechanic, whom I trust, and he tells me that I need my Steering intermediate shaft rebuilt ($300 - It is $300 because it has to be rebuilt since tha part is not available anymore) and
my Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends need to be replaced ($600)

First:
My worry is that if I now replace this what's next? I don't mind regular maintenance and as long as my repair cost avg under $400/mth I don't mind since I would pay that much or more for a mthly car payment.

I just can't see spending nearly another grand after taxex, etc. for this and not know if in another month something else will go wrong and then something else, and so on...

Second:
How realistic am I to think that I can just get the Steering intermediate shaft rebuilt ($300) and ignore the Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends ($600) until I get together some more $$?

Lastly:
How do I determine if I am throwing good money after bad?

Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.

Thank you.

PS I can find the Tie Rods in my newly acquired Haynes manual (Ford Explorer 1991 - 2001 All models), But I don't see the Steering intermediate shaft.
(IF I end up scrapping the Exp, then this manual will be for nought.)

 

[Joe Dirt]

Any reason why you can't use an intermediate shaft from a junkyard? My last Ex had a replacement on it when I bought it... No reason to go big dollar on a part like that, I don't think...

As for the i/o tie rod ends, once they're replaced, it's done, not like it's a recurring $400 expense. I just replaced all of my front end on my new (to me) Ex, and just did it so it would tighten up the front and be more pleasant to drive. IT was money well spent knowing I wasn't going to have to put money into the front end for a long time, if ever.

If you dig your truck, I'd find a used shaft, (look up kbabiak on the forum, he can probably send one to you on the cheap) and get her running again. No new car with a constant payment will love you back like your paid for Ex with minor expenses once in a while.

 

[ClaimCheck]

I dunno where i'ld find a boneyard around here, too new to town, and if I found another 95 Steering intermediate shaft, how do i know it won't shoot craps shortly after its installed?

If i get mine rebuilt, i should expect it to last another 100K+ right?
I am just having that fixed and I'll deal with the i/o tie rod ends ($600) in a few weeks/months if I keep it. (Should it only be $400 for this kind of repair?)

I realize that I won't be putting out $600 for the i/o tie rod ends or $300 for the shaft or $2500 for the transmission and clutch every few months...
I just wish that these thing would spread out their need to be fixed. When they all crop up month after month anfter month, it is kinda hard to get the money toghether to pay for it all.

A friend suggested I have my engine checked with a compression check.
If it fails then he advised me to dump my Exp before that also goes.
Anyone wanna explain how compression check will tell me the value of my engine?)

I wish I knew more about fixing cars, so I would know what I am talking about instead of relying on others.

That said, I am still open to any other thoughts that people out there may have.

Thanks,

CC

 

[safn1949]

If you trust this mechanic have him give the truck a good once over and write up what he finds including a compression check.As long as there are not any major problems and you have had the tranny redone then you have to decide if you want to fix it.

I just put $1900 into my 94 Ex this year fixing stuff like the steering box,wheel bearings,radiator,rotors and brakes to name a few but I want to keep the truck and it's in good shape.

And if you decide not to keep it find another one,you have a new transmission for a spare.The money hurts so you have to spread it out over a year,what ever you spend that year break down into monthly payments in your head.That $1900 is only $158 a month and that's cheap driving.Once you learn to do that it takes the sting out of it.

 

[Joe Dirt]

Best resource after the forum parts guys like kbabiak and ped5stang, etc... is: www.car-part.com

That will give you tons of junkyards to work with. If they show Explorer steering racks, etc, they will also have the intermediate shaft even if they don't list it on the website. You can call them and they'll ship it to you, shipping shouldn't be bad for that part...

There is a tradeoff- sure the part is cheaper, and it could crap out. Will it? Who knows. It's the tradeoff on used parts. But if you pay $20 for a part and it only lasts 10 months, so be it- it was $20... Much cheaper than financing a new car for $400+/month for 5 years. I'd much rather have a car that's paid for, but that's just my .02

For $300 to rebuild it, he should warranty it for you too. But yes, it should last.

With what you've paid for the trans/clutch, I would at least drive it a year to get your money back out of it...

 

[ClaimCheck]

Thanks for the link. But he had already gotten the part before I saw it.
It is in my favorites now.

I think it's just his std 30 or 90 days. (He did call me the next day to ask how it was driving. Never had a mechanic do that before.)

And I know that i need to keep driving it for another year plus to get my money's worth from the clutch/transmission.

And then another 6-8 month to my money's worth from the steering shaft & the i/o tie rod ends.

and then add more time for any other work done to it and I will "have" to drive this until 2023 to get all that money in back out in usage.

Seriously, I found a place, "AAA Recommended" that is gonna do a general check of the car, a good once over and write up what he finds and include a compression check for $75. (Best price in town, literally, I called 3 or 4 places and most said, "Sure, I'll take your money and say its good or not, but no way I can tell if it will fall apart tomorrow")

(I asked my regular guy to do this and he either wasn't interested, or is good at fixing broke stuff but not so good at giving it a once over. I dunno.)

Long and short of it ll is it will depend on what Roy's has to say this week.
I hope it's good. I'ld hate to give up this Explorer and even more, i will hate making car payments that i can't really afford.

Cheers!

 

[ClaimCheck]

Oh yeah! One more thing.

The new clutch has a pretty long ride from the floor to the time it bites.

It used to do it about an inch or so from the floor and now it feels like it is at least 6 inches.

It may be more or less, I haven't measured.

But the point of this is to ask, Can't the clutch be addjusted? (My guy says it is all hydraulics and there is nothing he can do except bleed the slave. done and no effect.)

I remember, years ago, that it was adjusted by the dealer, in MN where I lived at the time, and I have to guess that this guy, as good as he and his ppl are, they don't know about this clutch.

Does anyone here have any link that you can direct me to that I can print to show him where it *CAN* be adjusted?

Thanks!

CC

 

[ThePhoenix]

i would do the tie rods myself. its not hard and costs about 60 bucks

 

[bisjoe]

i would do the tie rods myself. its not hard and costs about 60 bucks

Agreed, that's an easy job. The clutch is self adjusting. Since it's been recently replaced, I'd check to see if there's air in the system, maybe needs re-bleeding. Try pumping the pedal 8-10 times in neutral, then try it again,
if it catches lower it's likely air.

Good luck on the checkup. If everything else seems OK I'd definitely figure you have too much into it to let it go. There are other possible problems to come, wheel bearings, exhaust system, brakes, rear end, to name a few but all but an engine rebuild will still cost less than a car payment if they at least give you a month between them.

Hopefully the mechanic will give you a good, thorough honest appraisal so you can make a good decision.