Jefe's 700R4 swap | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Jefe's 700R4 swap

I got tired of the computer deciding when my 5R55E transmission should shift, since it hadn't a clue with all the mods I've done so I decided It was time for a change. The two choices were a manual, or a 700R4 for a lower crawl ratio. I love having an auto in LA traffic (and Its grown on me wheeling) so I figured I'd be the first to put a 700R4 in a 2nd gen. :)

All my pics are here, and I'll link the important ones to the thread.

I grabbed the two Advance Adapters parts (4.0 to 700R4, 700R4 to t-case) back in Feb for a great deal, and waited for some more cash to come around to buy the 700R4. I got the 700R4 (Level II) from Bowtie Overdrives, along with their TV system, 1800 rpm stall torque converter, dip stick, and install kit.

The trans arrives:
DCP_4478.jpg


A few weeks before I put the trans in i decided to install the TV linkage. Somewhere between '91-'94 and 2000 the throttle body linkage changed size, so I got to modify it to fit Bowtie's TV setup. I figured since was modifying anyway I mine as well upgrade and so I threw in a BBK TB.

You can see where i ground the linkage down:
DSC00115.jpg


On another weekend I hacked up my center console and installed the B&M Hammer shifter. It sat a little low sitting on the floor, so I welded up a sub-frame for it out of 1" sq. tube. I plan to glass the cover in with the center console so it looks factory. (anyone want to show me how to glass?)

Part way installed:
SANY0017.jpg


The next step was to throw in the transmission in a weekend and hope everything else went smoothly since this is still my daily driver.

Friday night (5 hrs):
The first job was to get the control arms from the SFA out of the way, along with its bracketry:
SANY0001.jpg

SANY0004.jpg


Next, getting ready to take the t-case and transmission out:
SANY0005.jpg

SANY0006.jpg


Saturday (15 hrs):
With help, and a very tall floor jack (or a bunch of bricks :rolleyes: ) remove t-case and transmission. Compare transmisions (AA tailshaft housing was installed previously, and the 700R4 was built with the AA output shaft):
SANY0012.jpg


Bolt AA adapter to engine:
SANY0014.jpg


Bolt adapter to torque converter and install:
I had to grind down the three bolts in order to get them flush w/ the adapter. Not sure if AA dropped the ball or what.
SANY0013.jpg


Bolt up trans:
SANY0015.jpg


Bolt up t-case:
SANY0016.jpg


Connect TV linkage:
SANY0022.jpg


Reroute cooler lines. I used rubber for now. I plan to replace with either braided stainless or hard lines. I had ordered the Bowtie overdrives lines, but they aren't long enough to reach the drivers side tank of the stock radiator, nor are they the right fittings for the radiator.

Sunday (10 hrs):
Wire up shifter. I brought the wires that went to the shift position switch on the 5R through the same hole as the shift cable. By rewraping the wire harness correctly, i didn't have to extend any wires, which was nice.
Wire up torque converter harness. I got bowties harness w/ manual lockup switch, and replaced my shifter handle with one that has a switch. so now I can lock the converter up when i'm climbing in 3rd gear. It works great.

Connect shifter, fill trans and start engine w/o exhaust Y-pipe to get neighbors attention :D

Modify exhaust. I had to crush the pre-cat on the passenger side in order to get the Y-pipe to fit. The O2 sensor on that side is fine. The O2 sensor on the other side clears the adapter plate by a 1/32", so others may need to grind the adapter to get it to fit. I figured I'd then drive it to an exhaust shop and have them remake my Y-pipe to fit better. However I found out that for such a new vehicle the O2 sensors and pre-cats have to be exact stock distances down the pipe to follow guidlines so no one wanted to help me there. I even talked with the local guy for a good 30 mins coming up with crazy ideas to get it to work, like remoting the oil filter and taking the exhaust around the outside of the frame rail. I ended up just using the tube that AA suplies to extend the Y-pipe so that the cats would bolt up sqaure and clear the trans. I may get to have fun when I need to smog this thing :rolleyes:

exhaust pics:
SANY0024.jpg

SANY0033.jpg

SANY0025.jpg


I know I've left out many details, so if anyone has any questions, ask away.
 



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sounds really really familiar, kinda like A4LD drama

Sorry to hear this Jefe, ride those suckers. Shops hate me when they have my parts or cars longer then they said, I dont go away.
 



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Jefe said:
i looked other places and their price is near what any other 'higher end' 700R4 in a V6 case (thats the kicker as most places wanted more for the V6 case) would cost.
Ah, i forgot you have to use the 60 degree R4. Okay, high price makes sense now.
 






So my transmission was ready yesterday afternoon. . .but nobody called me till just now to tell me. :rolleyes:
It was covered under warranty though. :thumbsup:
 






Any word from Bowtie as to why it broke? It sounds like you broke the input drum like I did on my first trans from them.

If my trans does go again, I will not be happy.. especially since they installed it (I helped) so they can't blame it on install.

~Mark
 






is it possible to incorrectly install the input drum when stabbing a transmission? hahaha
 






Any other GOOD options besides Bowtie for a 60 degree 700r4. I officially broke my a4ld and need help quick. I hope to order a trans this weekend or monday and then install as soon as it arrives. thanks
 






Well I hope you plan to order the AA kit to install that 700r4 too, have you researched what it takes to get one in your truck? You need more then just the trans and starter.
 






You don't need a starter.. the a4ld starter works fine since you use your own flexplate :) But yes.. you need the kit.. and you need it before the 700r4 since you need to get it built with the new output shaft.

~Mark
 






oops
 






I am ordering the AA kit yes! Now whats the deal with the output shaft???
 






Do I have to send the output shaft to whoever builds the tranny?
 






Yes.. you get your output shaft from AA, then give it to your trans builder and tell them to use this output shaft (give then a copy of the instructions too, it has notes about the seal.. but they may already know about it but it can't hurt)..

You should also let the trans builder know what it is going into.. a 4000+ lbs truck with 160hp so they can help you get the right converter (mine stalls way too high in this heavy truck)..

~Mark
 






Maniak said:
One thing I still don't like.. I'm supposed to have the 1800 stall HD converter but I am getting 2500+ rpm stall speed (flash stall is 2700ish... and brake stand stall is about the same)..
Maniak said:
You should also let the trans builder know what it is going into.. a 4000+ lbs truck with 160hp so they can help you get the right converter (mine stalls way too high in this heavy truck)..

~Mark

Torque converter stall speed is dependant on the amount of torque from the engine. The problem is the V6 TC's are designed for the 2.8L and I have yet to find one for the V6 700R4 that is lower than 1800 stall.

Mine brake stalls till around 2300. On the road I actually wish it was higher to get the truck going faster from a stop. On the trail its not too bad since the stall speed decreases in Low, but it could be lower.
 






Jefe,
You wanna trade converters? I want lower stall.. and you want higher stall.. I'm stalling at 2700.. I'd love to go down to 2200-2300 rpms

Also, I thought it was based on torque of motor and weight of vehicle, not just torque of the motor. E.g when you have a light vehicle, your stall can end up being too low

~Mark
 






Maniak said:
Jefe,
You wanna trade converters? I want lower stall.. and you want higher stall.. I'm stalling at 2700.. I'd love to go down to 2200-2300 rpms

Also, I thought it was based on torque of motor and weight of vehicle, not just torque of the motor. E.g when you have a light vehicle, your stall can end up being too low

~Mark
Pretty sure we have the same exact Converter: PDQ 1800 HD
However I am installing a new converter so we shall see if all are created equal. You could get someone to custom make you a lower stall one for $$$.

Yes, actual stall is dependant on vehicle weight, but you were referencing brake stall. ;)
My "real world" stall is more like 2000 from a dead stop in 1st gear at WOT
 






Are you saying that from a dead stop, you go to WOT and your rpms only jump to 2000 and then climb?

Mine jump to 2700rpms then climb even more from there..


BTW.. did you find out what caused your latest failure?

~Mark
 






Maniak said:
Are you saying that from a dead stop, you go to WOT and your rpms only jump to 2000 and then climb?

Mine jump to 2700rpms then climb even more from there..

BTW.. did you find out what caused your latest failure?

~Mark
Yes, thats correct

Chris at Bowtie says the failure is due to a mis-alignment between the transmission and engine. The slight offset (which you can see wear on the snout of the torque converter) caused a bushing to wear and fail, causing the input drum to fail. He wants me to call Advanced Adapters and work with them to get it resolved. If I can find a run-out dial I will check everything and do that. However its reached the point where I need my truck back together so I don't have to rely on borrowing a car.

Mark, when you and Bowtie installed it did you check alignment and/or use offset dowel pins to align it properly?
 






cough:5.0L:cough
 









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I have 2 4.0L blocks, still, they run, with new parts on them even. But recently I aquired 3 complete 5.0L drivetrains so I am thinking they might not get used anytime soon

The point of the 5.0 for me was to get the 4r70w, I am hoping I wont have to touch this thing for $200K miles, so I can work on other junk instead, plus in your Gen II its a bolt in conversion.... but yeah just forget I said anything :p
 






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