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Jerky Steering

TheDuck648

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August 28, 2019
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Ford Explorer XLT
Hey all,

I just replaced my first rack and pinion, everything is hooked up properly and running. Bled out the system by turning the wheel and waiting for bubbles to disappear from the reservoir (as told in the Haynes repair manual). Thought everything was fine, still up on the Jack stands, when turning the wheels right it shakes. Left nothing, right shakes.
New CV joints, new tie rod ends, new shocks, new rack. Didnt have the problem until now and didnt have the problem until system was bled.

2001 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 V6

-Duck
 



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@TheDuck648

What you are experiencing is "shudder" after replacing your P/S Pump or Steering Rack.

1) Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of these:


image_11800.jpg


2) Go to your local hardware store, and buy a rubber stopper that will fit (but not get sucked into)
your power steering fluid pump's filler neck.


images


3) While at Harbor Freight or your local Hardware Store, buy a barbed brass air line connector
that will go completely through the rubber stopper.

image_10675.jpg


* Drill a hole through all the way through the center of the rubber stopper, and insert the barbed brass air line connector.

* Connect one end of the vacuum pump air line to the barbed brass connector, and the other end straight to the Vacuum Pump.

* Remover power steering pump cover/dipstick, make sure your p/s fluid level is full, and insert the rubber stopper into the neck of the pump.

* Start the engine, pump up to about 10 - 12 inches of vacuum on the vacuum pump,
and then turn the steering wheel full lock left/full lock right while watching the gauge on the vacuum pump.

* If air is present in your p/s fluid, you will see the needle drop on the vacuum pump as you go lock to lock.
Also, as you remove air, you'll will hear a pleasant change in your p/s pump noise as you lessen "pump groan."

* When you get the air out of your pump & rack, the shuddering effect will stop, and the p/s system will be quieter.

* When you remove the rubber stopper, you will see little air bubbles on the top of your p/s fluid in the pump reservoir = SUCCESS!

* NOTE: If you turn your steering wheel w/o the engine running, you can introduce air into your p/s system.

Hope that helps!

PS - As a plus, you can use the Vacuum Pump to bleed your brake calipers and master cylinder - best $20 you'll spend on your Explorer!
 






@TheDuck648

What you are experiencing is "shudder" after replacing your P/S Pump or Steering Rack.

1) Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of these:


image_11800.jpg


2) Go to your local hardware store, and buy a rubber stopper that will fit (but not get sucked into)
your power steering fluid pump's filler neck.


images


3) While at Harbor Freight or your local Hardware Store, buy a barbed brass air line connector
that will go completely through the rubber stopper.

image_10675.jpg


* Drill a hole through all the way through the center of the rubber stopper, and insert the barbed brass air line connector.

* Connect one end of the vacuum pump air line to the barbed brass connector, and the other end straight to the Vacuum Pump.

* Remover power steering pump cover/dipstick, make sure your p/s fluid level is full, and insert the rubber stopper into the neck of the pump.

* Start the engine, pump up to about 10 - 12 inches of vacuum on the vacuum pump,
and then turn the steering wheel full lock left/full lock right while watching the gauge on the vacuum pump.

* If air is present in your p/s fluid, you will see the needle drop on the vacuum pump as you go lock to lock.
Also, as you remove air, you'll will hear a pleasant change in your p/s pump noise as you lessen "pump groan."

* When you get the air out of your pump & rack, the shuddering effect will stop, and the p/s system will be quieter.

* When you remove the rubber stopper, you will see little air bubbles on the top of your p/s fluid in the pump reservoir = SUCCESS!

* NOTE: If you turn your steering wheel w/o the engine running, you can introduce air into your p/s system.

Hope that helps!

PS - As a plus, you can use the Vacuum Pump to bleed your brake calipers and master cylinder - best $20 you'll spend on your Explorer!
Thank you! I'll have to do that. We've been looking for the pumps but couldnt find any with the stopper, the fact you have to make your own makes sense haha.
 












Thank you! I'll have to do that. We've been looking for the pumps but couldnt find any with the stopper, the fact you have to make your own makes sense haha.

@TheDuck648

No problem - been there and done that.

Yeah - when installing a new/rebuilt Rack & Pinion, there are all sorts of places where air can hide - especially when you're re-using your OLD P/S Pump.

In short; Clearances are tight in the rebuilt Rack & Pinion, and loose in the old P/S Pump. Due to age & use, the old P/S pump puts out less pressure and less output/flow.

The bonus is that you can re-added utilize the pump for brake bleeding/flushing which you should do every 2 years, due to the fact that Brake Fluid is Glycol based and thus Hydroscopic - meaning that it absorbs water. The water in the brake fluid settles in the brake calipers and eventually freezes the piston.

BELOW is a link to the Harbor Freight Coupon Base for the latest HF Offers:

Link: Harbor Freight Tools Coupon Database - Free coupons, 25 percent off coupons, 20 percent off coupons, No Purchase Required coupons, toolbox coupons
 






Air leaks into the P.S. system are common on Fords. The air comes in from the
return line(s). Those funky clamps and brittle hard hoses not only leak oil out
sometimes, but, more importantly leak air INTO the system even without oil leaks!
 






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